Build Thread The Hoopty V2.0 - Back To Mustang Stuff. (seriously.)

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by hoopty5.0, Jul 19, 2014.

  1. Well it's home. Will update more tomorrow, I'm beat.

    I did manage to ruin the paint by almost ripping off the front bumper getting it on the trailer. I'll write that up later too.

    Attached Files:

  2. Sweet. Is it missing door trim or painted? It seems different. I did the same thing to my front bumper, surprisingly held up.
    Ditch the draglites for the wheels you were looking at and it'll be ****in
  3. It's painted. It needs a lot of detail work to clean it up aesthetically. I already committed to buy some wheels off corral, so that's done. I'm going to attempt fixing the water pump bolt without pulling the engine also.
  4. This thing done yet?
  5. I have to haul off the 85 carcass today and I'll start on this one. Really, to run and drive, all I need to do is replace a broken water pump bolt and drain the gas tank. It's been sitting for a while

    $3,000 was the bill
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  6. nice, fresh fluids and a tune up and she'll be rolling!
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  7. Parts procurement is in progress:

    17x9 and 17x10 SC in silver
    SN95 front brakes
    5 lug rear axles, unsure about disc conversion yet.

    Still have a complete UPR front end left over that I'll get around to at some point.

    Going to be giving Late Model some business soon as well. I have to say that their installation videos are awesome. I'll be tackling the heater core soon, the video was a great help. @[email protected]
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  8. Some help with the water pump broken bolt...

    Here’s the parts list for the broken water pump bolts. Not cheap, but it will get you fixed and back on the road… The tool prices have gone up, just like everything else, so don't be surprised if they don't match what I posted.

    A word about the links, if they don’t work, do a search on the part number (P/N). MSC updates their catalog regularly, and the pages may change, but the part numbers don’t.

    The prices here may be old and out of date, but the part numbers should still be good. Use drill bushing 5/16” OD, 5/32” ID, ¾” long, P/N 07010457, price $12.49 This centers the drill bit in the housing bolt hole so you don’t get off center and damage the water pump, timing cover housing or engine block drill bits - use 5/32” Cobalt/TiN coated bit. P/N 83240556, price $4.17 Screw/bolt extractors. Use EZY-OUT Screw Extractor P/N 63760037 Price $4.16

    One step specialty item: See Drill-Out® Broken Bolt Extractors drill bushing, reverse twist drill & extractor all in one unit. Best to use when the bolt breaks off with the remaining part below the start of the threads. .P/N 05027164. Price $24.40 each. You MUST have a reversing drill motor (either air or electric) to use this bit.

    A long shank tap should be used to chase the leftover metal out of the original threads. Also recommended to clean the corrosion and dirt out of the threads before you reassemble everything. Cleaning the threads will help prevent the bolts from seizing next time (yes, there will be a next time).

    Long shank 5/16” taps to clean or re-tap threads with the timing cover or water pump still in place. 5/16” pulley tap, 6” shank P/N 04801189 price $35.66

    OR second choice, will not clean all the bottom threads unless you grind the end of the tap. extension tap, 6” reduced diameter shank P/N 04701181 $40.49

    See for the bolts and studs. Nice folks, very into cars of all types. They have all kinds of stainless fasteners for almost every car. The prices are very reasonable, less the $8 for the water pump kit without the studs.
    Stud bolt kits for FORD 5.OL water pumps in:
    1985 mustang with (2) short, (2) medium, (1) long stud bolt, & flange nuts
    (also used on some FORD trucks & suv applications) P/N 6-9030, $63.50
    1994-1995 Mustang with (2) short & (1) medium length stud bolt P/N 6-9028, $37.40
    1986-1993 Mustang with (2) short & (1) long stud bolt P/N 6-9029, $37.90

    Stock plain steel studs are a Motormite item available at your local Advance Auto Parts store.

    Motormite Water Pump Stud Kits for Ford, Lincoln and Mercury cars and trucks w/3.8L, 4.6L, 5.0L, 5.8L.
    Part Number: 23744

    Bolt removal instructions:
    1.) Remove the water pump, fan, fan shroud & radiator – you’ll need lots of room to get the drill positioned straight.
    2.) Test fit the drill bushing in the timing cover housing – this assumes that the bolt broke off below the surface of the housing. If it is too loose, use some scotch tape wrapped around it to make a snug fit. The drill bushing helps center the drill bit up on the broken bolt so that it does not get off into the timing cover or engine block. If the bushing does not fit at least 3/8” into the timing cover, you may want to consider removing the timing cover and attacking the remnant of the bolt shank with a propane torch and Visegrips. If not, then find a drill bit big enough to drill off some of the remnant of the bolt shank until you can get the drill bushing in the required 3/8” or deeper into the timing cover housing. You will end up using the timing cover housing to center the large drill bit on the broken bolt shank. This is not the best plan, since the aluminum timing cover is soft and it would be easy to get the bit off center and damage the timing cover.
    3.) Once you have the drill bushing in place, chuck up the drill bit and drill the broken bolt. Use lots of WD40 to cool the drill bit. If you break the drill bit off in the bolt, it is time for a tow trip the automotive machine shop. Drill bits and easy outs are extremely hard and cannot be removed by ordinary means. It takes a solid carbide bit and extreme care to remove a broken drill bit or broken easy out.
    4.) When you have drilled about ½” into the broken bolt, then remove the drill bushing and use a hammer to tap the easy out into place. Then chuck up the easy out in a T handle tap wrench. Turn the tap wrench slowly counter clockwise and you will feel it dig into the broken bolt. If it starts to slip, tap on the tap wrench with the hammer to reseat the easy out into the bolt.
    5.) Keep turning and one of three things will happen:
    a.) The bolt will come out and your efforts will be rewarded.
    b.) Or the easy out will continue to slip and more efforts will not make it grip. This means you get to remove the timing cover and attack the bolt remnant head on. That means you get to drill the bolt out to a thin shell & either re-tap the hole or install a helicoil threaded insert.
    c.) Or worst of all, the easy out will break off it the bolt shank. Then it is tow time to the automotive machine shop and pain in the wallet.
  9. I guess I'll make this a progress thread. It'll be more of a restoration for a while, but I plan on keeping it road worthy to prevent months of down time that I'm famous for.

    Still no pictures worth posting. I pulled the timing cover last night, drilled out the broken water pump bolt and chased the threads. @jrichker I think you posted right as I'm typing this, thanks for the info! I ended up using a punch to start the drill bit in the middle of the bolt and started drilling it out using gradually bigger bits before chasing the threads with a 5/16-18 tap. Worked like magic!

    Put it all back together to find that the PO had an underdrive crank pulley and a stock length belt nowhere even close to fitting. That and the tit on the back of the tensioner was broken off. I've sourced a stock crank pulley locally and am working on a tensioner.

    Once it's running and driving, I'll whore out some pictures, because this is hands down the cleanest mustang I've owned (not counting the '99).
    #9 hoopty5.0, Jul 22, 2014
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2014
    stangboy likes this.
  10. I drove it last night.

    The bad:

    - Hood release cable broken, realized after I closed the hood.
    - A/C compressor is frozen
    - front left brake drags
    - something loose in rear end
    - radiator shroud broken
    - fan shaft bent (WTF?)
    - fuel level sender inop. (thought it was almost empty, had 1/2 tank of bad gas, now full tank of bad gas)
    - windows don't roll up
    - pass door lock inop
    - entire front suspension junk (it feels like it, anyway)
    - engine makes a sound similar to a marble rolling around in a shoe box (I bet it has 500,00 miles)
    - needed a new battery
    - heater core bypassed

    The good:
    - It starts
    - It runs and doesn't smoke.
    - I can drive it
    - most of the list of bad items are easily fixable
    - Paint is great, interior is good.
    - The PO lives far away, good for his own safety for falsely advertising his car for sale.

    I still plan on posting pictures, but it got dark on me last night before I could. I also found that you can buy a Cobra brake kit for $699 from the big retail stores, or you can piece it together on RockAuto for ~$150. How's that for a markup?
    #10 hoopty5.0, Jul 23, 2014
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2014
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  11. Welcome to the team, I'll send ya a uniform
  12. Please post the details for the benefit of the rest of us - Maybe it could be an add on to the Technical Thread/How to Index sticky.
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  13. Well, I've bought a complete sn brake setup and the wheels. Next is an ac system and a good radiator/fan setup, along with window motors. Windows are stuck down, rendering ac useless :notnice:
  14. I don't know man, I blast the AC with my windows down. Because that's the kinda freedom this country was built on
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  15. That's 'cause you're just that kinda of person Tanner,........
    A freaky, far out dude who doesn't let the man tell you where you can go, and what to do.

    Wow,..........that blows my mind.
  16. :rock:
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    "Slightly Chuckled To Myself.......Not Out Loud"
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  18. That's definitely gonna catch on with the teenagers

    Rolled my eyes sarcastically
  19. GIMCQ

    giggling in my cubicle quietly. You know, so the boss can't hear me and figure out Im not working.
  20. That reminds me of the old phrase, " other than the shooting, how'd you like the play Mrs. Lincoln?"
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