That's 'zactly what it is, only the edis module is the MS and the 2 coils packs are actually 8 individual coils. But the theory/operation is the exact same.
Build Thread The Hoopty Chronicles - New House, New garage, New Car?
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I know the coils work, I've tested that previously but am going to test it again. Now that the crank trigger is working as it should, I just need to figure out where the timing is at.
The theory is, just need to make sure the application is.
And that's what is so fkn infuriating about all of this. Once you understand what is supposed to be happening, it's laughably simple. But it is absolutely kicking me right in the cods when it comes to application.
I watched you now for years...all the way back when you used to do something on a boat.....with a goat....
You let the big picture get in the way of the small stuff. You are the proverbial biter of more than you can chew.
You are close. Clearly competent. Do not let yourself get bogged down in the techno-mire.
If you were able to open that cardboard box full of integrated circuits, put it all together on a circuit board with only some written instructions to follow as a guide, get the car running, then after engine failure /project change out 4.0, open the thing, re-order the circuits to allow it to control individual coil packs, and then understand the testing and diag process as you trudge towards a restart.....
Seems to me....You got this.
If however, you bail on it, and put one of those 1910 fruit gum company spinny around sparky things back in instead...
You're dead to me.
You let the big picture get in the way of the small stuff. You are the proverbial biter of more than you can chew.
You are close. Clearly competent. Do not let yourself get bogged down in the techno-mire.
If you were able to open that cardboard box full of integrated circuits, put it all together on a circuit board with only some written instructions to follow as a guide, get the car running, then after engine failure /project change out 4.0, open the thing, re-order the circuits to allow it to control individual coil packs, and then understand the testing and diag process as you trudge towards a restart.....
Seems to me....You got this.
If however, you bail on it, and put one of those 1910 fruit gum company spinny around sparky things back in instead...
You're dead to me.
There is someone in forum that has the tool necessary to cut you a toothed plate. I'm trying to recall who... 
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/looking-for-ideas-for-my-new-milling-machine.901418/
Maybe give him a shout.
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/looking-for-ideas-for-my-new-milling-machine.901418/
Maybe give him a shout.
Now why on earth would he need that Noobz.....he already has a toothed wheel.....There is someone in forum that has the tool necessary to cut you a toothed plate. I'm trying to recall who...
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/looking-for-ideas-for-my-new-milling-machine.901418/
Maybe give him a shout.
Sheesh!
Just in the case that it comes flying off and embeds itself in the neighbor's garage... or dog.
But what about the spacing. Aren’t you gonna have to space all of your accessories an 1/8” forward now?Alright, I went to the machine shop. "Why don't you just grind the opening more so it's loose in the middle, bolt it finger tight, tap it with a hammer to get the run out good, then weld it on?"
If it was a poisonous snake hanging in front of me, I'd have been dead months ago.
Thanks, mr. machinist. Also, you could tell he really didnt wanna fuk with it, LOL.
Shouldn't. They have different spacers they sell to accommodate different configurations.
http://professional-products.com/harmonic-dampers/damper-accessories
I can fire each coil pair in test mode no problem. Try and start the car, and then this happens:
View: https://youtu.be/FduT9IV7OgE
View: https://youtu.be/FduT9IV7OgE
Have you done a TDC check with a piston stop like I described? Can you use the Jim Stim to check firing order?
No to the piston stop - getting the timing set is next on the agenda. I'm still trying to make everything function. Something is waaaay wrong. I drew out a schematic for the coils/wires/plugs and it wasn't working like it should have. I spent an 30 minutes last night testing the 4 spark outputs trying to get the firing order right, which it is now. The test mode is really useful for that. The problem is that the coil is firing like a machine gun. Once I get it to fire right, I can set TDC (with the piston stop) and then set timing.
HotFox
15 Year Member
Just wanted to throw a scenario at you Collin. Know a guy that did a Jeep V8 engine swap with stand alone EFI for a customer. The thing started and ran beautifully then all the sudden would die or run rough, restart ran fine. He tore that thing from one end to the other...replace computer wiring etc. What was the problem? Noise from the crank trigger was interfering with other wiring, they concluded some of it was due to the fiber glass body or parts not absorbing the RF or noise like metal would. He bought some kind of noise clips from Radio Shack and problem solved.
Point is there possibly some noise with the trigger wire? Maybe is it near the alternator or Starter wires? I think that is just 5v and very sensitive to noise. The ones I have done were shielded in a foil wrap then covered in a outer wrapping. I always kept it by itself, no other wires.
Scott
Point is there possibly some noise with the trigger wire? Maybe is it near the alternator or Starter wires? I think that is just 5v and very sensitive to noise. The ones I have done were shielded in a foil wrap then covered in a outer wrapping. I always kept it by itself, no other wires.
Scott
I wondered about this too, but the signal wire to the computer is in the shielded bundle for the stock TFI harness. The other 2 wires in there aren't being used. I can log the signal from the crank trigger. It shows up as a square wave and looks like it's supposed to - 35 blips and a gap. I think the issue is within the MS - like I didn't mod it correctly to control the LS coils. All I did was add in a couple of resitors.... That can't be all that's needed! Nothing with MS is that simple.
The crank trigger input uses the OPTO circuit. It was noisy and inconsistent. After a sht load of reading, I finally made my way back to the DIYPNP assembly instructions. At the very front in the product description, it says if opto + doesn’t work, move the input to opto -, remove the ground jumper, and reverse the ignition input capture.
I did all that.
The car sputtered, started, ran for 1.5 seconds, backfired uncle buck style, and then my wife yelled at me to quit and get my ass inside.
But it fkn ran.
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