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Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by reenmachine, Sep 17, 2007.
Which MII kits include that diagonal brace?
Excuse me, but I use paint shop PRO!
Yes grasshopper, you see what I've been trying to say. I oversimplified it a bit perhaps and under emphasized the role of the unibody structure all to make my point, but that's the gist of it.
It's been a fun discussion so far and would be a heck of a lot easier if we were all sitting around my place with a half-built car with an MII (got it), a giant whiteboard (got it), and a keg (you bet I'd get it).
I'd even pour one for mikethebike.
The kits don't include it, but as Reen mention he's adding one, I'm adding one, and I know alot of other people that add them. They aren't required, but when you have a BBF running over 530HP & 550lbs torque without NOS every little bit helps. Plus I had my car seem welded like Reen said.
I use Photoshop CS3
Thanks Reen, There's a reason I'm running the MII, I spent a lot of time checking it all out and talking to R&C before I bought it. He changed the geometry of the system and gave me tips to better set it up for my driving preferences. You can still play around with a little, I got a lot of advice from a lot of different types of racers.
Plus this a just a bad ass street car. Hopefully it will be done soon; The guy working on it for me right now has pissed me off a lot!
I had it soda blasted when he started working on it, the dude kept putting of the primer even though I bugged him; it got surface rust, He said he'd clean it back off; and he just went and primed over the rust on the interior of the body, sure you won't see it, but I know it's there and I'm worried in a year to two I'll start getting bubbles. I hate people now doing things right the first time when it's so much easier. It drives me nuts. Because I always have to fix it when they do it wrong, it's that way at my job and that way in life!
BTW: I got the magazine today; the car looks great!
If you scroll down to the second product on the page you see Inner Fender Panles. These don't come with the Heidts kit, they are extra, obviously.
The MII front suspension setup that I have personally seen on a car didn't put these in. They eliminated the shock towers completely and left the area wide open (looked really terrible). I didn't have a chance to drive or take a ride in the car but I did talk to the owner. He was not happy with the way the car went around corners.
I admit this could be due to a poorly installed suspension setup. However, the "good" MII installs I've seen pictures of patch up the shock tower area after they are removed.
Wow. If the installer was the type to leave gaping holes in the engine compartment where the shock towers used to be imagine what other corners they may have cut. I wouldn't ride in it if I were you.
Thats no good. You should have had a company that just does mineral blasting and primering do that work for you.
what kind of oil pan is that?
I don't know what will fit on my 532 with my suspension. I heard canton has a pan for a 460 but i am not sure it will clear the stroke of the motor.
Thats exactly the kind of installs I worry about. That is why I tell people to make sure they do it right if they are going to put an MII setup in their car. That kind of work SCARES me.
i agree with rusty, if you are going to install the mustang ll suspension, definately do it right. just adding the mustang ll crossmember doesnt make for a proper install.
Now we're back to square one. Why do you think extra structure has to be added to make for a proper install?
Doing it right means doing it right, as in cutting and measuring everything carefully, making great welds with proper penetration, and patching the aprons.
here's the way i see it. any flex AT ALL will eventually start to cause cracking near the welds and most likely on the thin sheetmetal orginal frame rails which could lead to everything forward of those rails snapping off, if you trust it enough then that's fine, i don't, plain and simple.
i've seen stock frame rails with the stock suspension still attached crumple, crack, rust through and fail without the added load or added welds to convince me NOT to weld anything to them.
if you replace the factory rails with a thicker rail and add structural bracing up to the firewall, like the Martz kit does then i don't have a problem with it.
the only other issue i have with doing a M-II suspension is that it makes it almost impossible to ever put the car back to stock in the future for you/me or anyone else.
Well then by that logic you should be telling everyone to add additional bracing to their Mustang. A rusty car is a rusty car regardless of the suspension in it and it's going to have problems.
Not simple, but a little frame rail patching and a pair of the new complete shock tower assemblies would do it. It's probably easier to undo it than it was to do it in the first place.
easy for you to say
Just make sure it's REAL beer and not any of that 'light' crap.
"Life's too short to drink cheap beer."
It's a Canton, but if I would do iut again I'd buy a Moroso, the canton had a leak in it from spotty welding, I also bought Canton sheetmetal valve covers that leaked and did not fit right, sent them back,
20 years ago when I lived in Charleston, SC a friend of mine named Doug Elliot had a 64 or 65 6-cylinder Falcon with triple carbs and all kinds of goodies. He tore the frame rails loose from the body auto-crossing the car. He'd take that car out and embarris the hell out of some very high dollar cars.
If you are going to race your car, even in auto-cross I believe you need to buy the Ford BOSS 302 Chassis Modification book and use it. We did the stage-3 to a 1969 fastback and when it was done you could jack any corner of the car off the ground and the doors would open and close like a new car sitting on all fours. You just had to drive that car to believe how solid it was.
And to support the theory that the rails hold the weight, the BOSS-302s were reinforced at the bottom of the spring tower to keep it from tearing under hard cornering.
Don't worry -- it looks like that's one thing you & I agree on.
not sure that realy supports the theory, i guess it would depend on where those towers were trying to go, if they were trying to leave the car from the top that would mean that there is a lot more force being taken up at the top of the tower than any of us thought.
BTW, i am an advocate of using the boss chassis manual. i have one myself in my little black (not really very little, actually) tech folder that i keep right next to my bed.