Progress Thread The Only Part Of A Chevy You Don't Have To Tow (until Now), Into An Sn95.

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by tannerc91gt, Mar 30, 2014.

  1. Sure sure, like no one on here has ever done a swap and had any problems with it not firing or having a rough idle. Even after a rebuild up to a 331/347/408, no one has to chase gremlins ever. They have all gone off without a hitch.:lol:
    tannerc91gt likes this.
  2. Holley advertises direct compatibility with LS1/ls2 hardware.
    Which is true.
    BUT their "ls1 ignition parameters" aren't right. Understandable, but their instructions and info table is truly unhelpful so I had to do some more exploring.
    I ended up switching to a custom ignition set up.
    Kept the 24x crank sensor setting obviously but noticed that the cam sensor was defaulting to a 4x sensor which is wrong.
    Switched that to a one-pulse magnetic signal and moved the dwell time to 5ms

    This all resulted in a nice smooth rpm signal, idled at the target 1100rpm, dropped to 60kpa at the map, 15.5:1afr and showed 0 errors.
    Crisis averted.

    I figured out my goof with the gauges as well.
    They have to be pinned directly into the ecu, not through an output (dont know how the hell that made sense to me in the first place but i digress). But there's only 1 pin (p1-a15 if anyone cares). So I'll have to chain the rest of them together.
    Pretty neat setup now that it works and they're programmed. The fuel gauge still needs some wires ran.

    Fans are wired and work seperate of each other. Made it easier to let the car run today and kept me cool while I cursed at everything.
    I won't have to keep the test drives so short now.

    In other news:
    The alternator is dead. I know the wiring is right because my old logs showed a steady 14+ volts running.
    Now it sits at 11 and dies as you crank. Going to hit advance auto and trade it for another when I return my cam/crank sensors.
    I'm gonna guess a spike from the starter killed it. I don't have a fuse in line now so that's what I'm blaming.
    NO ONE carries a mega fuse block at any of the 5 parts stores I went to. Yet they all carry the big assed fuses.
    Alas, that's what lifetime warranties are for.

    If it does the trick I'll put some street miles on it. Should be interesting since I took the mufflers off.
    It drew quite a bit of attention from the neighborhood I drove through the other day as my return lap was greeted with people standing in their yards. At least half of them weren't pissed off :D
    #362 tannerc91gt, Jun 7, 2014
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2014
    A5literMan likes this.
  3. Glad to see you figured all that shi t out. I tell ya, if and when I start my car, it is plagued by "this sh it don' make no sense" stuff like you've had to deal with, it'll probably end up sitting for like 10 years, all while getting buried under garage s hit until the day I feel like messing with it again.
  4. Fixed the alt. Charges great. Resynced the ecu, fired right up. And put that bish out on the street. Made a few 4500rpm pulls and it ran absolutely great. Shifted great and everything functioned. Smile plastered on my face success.

    Parked it, let it cool down and started reprogramming the gauges...

    Car won't start.just get a cycle of RPM ERROR and SYNC over and over. I'm at wits end at this point.

    I guess there's a good chance the plugs fouled again. But hell idk.
    Had a blast and it fell apart again.
    It's just gonna sit for a week or so
  5. Let it sit for a few days. Taking a break helps me out a lot when something frustrates me. Need some videos of these pulls though.
    90lxcoupe likes this.
  6. Unfortunately this is where my expertise runs out. I truly don't know what the next step is. Going to call holley tech tomorrow and see where I've gone wrong if the plugs don't do the trick.
    I know I'm scaring Colin so I'll hold the updates off til the car gods are back on my side
    As for videos, we'll come up with something. Bit of a handful to try and hold up a cell phone and it wouldn't be an exciting view.
  7. You're scaring Collin? You know more than me about this junk, you bought a factory assembled kit, that has an actual talking adult that you can call w/ problems.
    Try adding the variables where you've built your own ECU from a kit, don't have any frame of reference for a base fuel map, and you have to run every single wire to every single sensor from a screw terminal strip, and if, and when I encounter a problem, I have to email the tech dept w/ questions.
    The only thing I can take solace in is that I've built two other kits that have been sold to members here, and they have evidently ran w/o incident,....and now these ECU's can learn and tune themselves once I get it close enough to start driving.
    tannerc91gt likes this.
  8. The only thing really scaring me at the moment is my budget; or lack thereof.

    I'm 99% certain that Holley has tech reps that deal with people everyday with half the intellect and twice the problems. I bet they get you up and running in a matter of minutes.
  9. Alright, update.
    No video @old_blue so stop reading here

    Spent 2 hours on the phone with holley tech...118 of which spent listening to the hold song. Until a guy said, "I'm not sure, charge your battery and send me your tune files."
    He was convinced that seeing 10.5-10.8v cranking was keeping me out.
    I disagreed.
    I ended up doing a defective exchange on a new red top(stupid $220 battery) and that solved nothing.
    But what was so strange was that previous to the battery swap, id pull the charger off the car, put the leads back on and it would fire. It just ran like s hit.

    Still having a sync error and only showing 150rpm cranking.
    The fact that I could SEE rpm cranking in the live data screen hinted that at least the crank sensor was good. Holley was convinced I had a 58x sensor by accident, I was not.
    So I ran a system log and there it was.
    Nice fat digital signal from the crank sensor and a flat line for the cam.
    After I rechecked my tune and zeroed out the enrichment tables (this keeps it out of learn mode otherwise) I disabled the cam sensor, put it in batch fire and it came alive.
    Went and picked up a new one and swapped them out. Took the car out for a quick drive. No tags, plates, title or insurance means it really was quick.
    In my haste of reloading the holley software and building a new tune entirely I forgot to pin the fans in the ecu, so we saw about 195* driving.
    Car pulls pretty damn hard for being severely under geared and spinning it to about 4500 (4700 stall). No speedo so it's hard to get a reference but I clicked my way into 3rd and we were movin out.
    4.30s off the brake oughta be an experience in itself.
    I've got to redo the throttle cable, program the gauges again (tricky SOBs) and wire up the tach and fuel gauge and we'll be in business.
    Oh and I melted my trans dipstick, tube was laying on the LT and the stick was plastic :D
    This was accompanied by a fine mist of oil up the windshield, really need to finish that filter. Or build a catch can.
  10. So it didn't like sequential ignition, and worked fine in wasted spark? Odd.
  11. It DOES like sequential, it just obviously won't allow seq. without a cam sensor which is how I was testing. Running in sequential now.
    And I was able to take it back out of the waste spark setup it defaulted to without the cam sensor. All back to normal now besides the cam sensor in 1x
    It's got it's odd settings and behaviors but truly once I learned a little and it was able to do it's job, it's absolutely outstanding at learning on the fly.
  12. No more sniveling, B itch.
  13. @90lxcoupe
    Did you run a return spring with your 4150?
    It seems to not need one, but the throttle does stick a little. I believe this is due to a frayed litter casing from my homemade cable. Just looking for an easy solution
  14. No i didnt, i tried running one as an extra failsafe but i could not get the car to idle right cause the return spring would pull the blades closed just a hair more than when the spring was disconnected while i was adjusting the idle. The OEM ford cable also has a return spring on it and if the factory cable wasnt adjusted right the idle would hang slightly. Not sure if thats what you are going through, but there is a fine line between having a small amount of free play and having the cable slightly pulling the blades open.
  15. Mine does fine until you let off and it'll hang at 2200 or so because the cables getting caught up in the outer sleeve.
    But you answered my question, sounds like a return spring will be a bigger problem than help.
  16. There's no "bonus" in you forcing me to look at two 94-98 mustangs,..........My eyes hurt now.

    Gauges are cool though.;)
    tannerc91gt likes this.
  17. Finally cracked the holley gauge secret code and got them working.
    Wired up my tach and fuel level gauge.
    Took a spirited drive. And only once did I think the car was on fire.
    Other than needing to wire up the transbrake one of these days and swapping in a steep set of gears the car is...done.
    Now I'm not sure where I go from here. I didn't expect to get to this point so I'm just kinda wandering for a while.
    Maybe go make a pass soon :shrug:
  18. Sell it and build something else?:shrug:
    Of all the stupid.............