Brakes Them's The Brakes!

Discussion in '1974 - 1978 Mustang II Talk & Tech' started by MUSTANG J, Mar 8, 2007.

  1. Five bolt front brake conversion 101. :D

    Step one: Secure a Ford Mustang II or for that matter a Ford Pinto or Mercury Bobcat.
    View attachment 398026

    Step Two: Get a brake kit. Mine was an Allstar Kit.
    My photo almost looks as good as theirs. hehe.

    Check out the rotor size differance!

    Step Three: Remove your stock rotors, cailpers and cailiper brackets. I think the fog in the picture was my breath (cold here in the winter) :canada:

    Step Four: Bolt on kit supplied cailiper bracket. You will need a 1/2 fine thread bolt for the upper mount that is not included in the kit.

    Step Five: Remove the stock rotor dust shields. They are too small to be effective and they rub the new rotors
    (ask me how I know :D )

    Step Six: Clearance the lower control arms slightly. (I used an angle grinder). The left was worse then the right for some reason. Paint the exposed metal so it does not rust.

    Hard to see in the picture but, if you look close you can see the rotor just brushes the lower control arm before clearancing.

    Step Seven: Pack the supplied wheel bearings and instal the supplied rotor grease seals and instal the new rotors. You need to resuse your: spindle nut, spindle washer and bearing dust cap.

    Step Eight: Load the brake pads and install the brake cailiper. (Brake pad changes take 2 minutes with this new set-up, Kool for open track days!!) Remember to lube the slider bolts with cailper lube.

    Step Nine: Install the flex lines. I used Allstars brake line kit. I found it to be a little short. The actual line is just generic dash 3 brake line with threaded fittings on both ends, so I will likely use the supplied fittings and a 1" or 2" longer line. In Allstars defence this kit is intended for Hot Rods and Race cars and not a true bolt-on Mustang II brake upgrade. The lines were not designed to fit factory Mustang II flex line bracketry. The brake line kit was also very inexpensive.

    Step Ten: Bleed the brake system. At this point the front is finished. It is now time to bolt on one of the 10 million new wheel choices that fit a Ford 5 on 4 1/2" or GM 5 on 4 3/4" bolt pattern.
    (you can order the kit with either popular bolt pattern)
    I ordered The Ford kit because GM cailipers was as far as I would dare go to the other side!:rlaugh:

    This thread is for entertainment and information purposes ONLY. Always use Jack Stands when working under your car! Please don't sue me if you injure yourself messing with your brakes:SNSign:

    Stay tuned, I will post a "how to" on the rear 5 bolt conversion shortly. It will be called either "Mustang II axles don't like to come out" or "When your father said doing brake stands would kill your wheel cylinders, he was right".
  2. cool i'll be waiting for that conversion i have heard so many ways please post as soon as possible thanks greg
  3. I am just going to an Automotive machine shop to have the drums and axles re-drilled. I have some $$$$ into the 8". If I didn't, I would have looked into a 8.8" out of a Bronco II, Explorer or Fox Mustang. (leaf spring mounts would have to be welded on).

    I almost bought a Granada rear-end for $150.00. I am told they are not a direct bolt-in either (1/4" off on the spring perches)?????. Then I though, I will just use the Granada Axles. Well the Granada axles have a different axle flange bolt pattern. You can press II bearings and flanges on the Granada axles, but they are reported to be slightly too long for a II housing??????

    In the end, I said screw it! Mustang II axles are known to fit in a Mustang II housing. Go with the sure bet. My desision was also based on budget constraints. If you add up all the parts it becomes big bucks:

    -front brake kit.
    -used rear-end.
    -modify the used rear-end.
    -rebuild the used rear-end.
    -new brakes in the used rear-end.
    -new 14"+ wheels and tires.

    I may eventually replace the 8" which I feel would be a project on its own.
    I will post pictures of the rear-end 5 bolt conversion soon. :D
  4. I got my axles back from the machine shop. The shop did an excellent job. They welded two of the original holes shut, then they machined both sides of the axle flange and re-drilled them to 5 on 4 1/2" bolt pattern. They also re-drilled the stock drums. Two holes intersect on the drums, but the holes are 95% complete. I will post some pictures soon. The shop also sand blasted the bearing retainers and pressed on new bearings. The axles look like new!:D
  5. Any pictures with the brake hoses connected? I'd like to see how yours matches up.

  6. I don't think I do. I can snap some soon though. I have yucky crusty dodge ralley wheels on the II (complete with moldy green flat tires). I gave up waiting for my tax return, or my stupid truck to sell to buy wheels. I bought a crusty set of 14" magnum 500's that I am going to refinish for now.
  7. The last person on earth without a digital camera or a cell phone has finally got my disposeable camera developed!! :D

    I got my axles and drums back from the machine shop.

    Close-up of the intersecting holes on the brake drum.

    My drums were brand new, so I had the re-drilled to the new bolt pattern. I plan to replace them with 1983ish? Ranger drums when they wear out.

    I had the stock Mustang II axles re-driled to 5 on 4 1/2" bolt pattern (Small 5 bolt Ford / Dodge / AMC). I had the machine shop press on new wheel bearings too. The bearings were original, so they were likely overdue! (I don't have a press so they were not replaced during the restification of the Mach).

    Close-up of axle face.

    The axles slid back in like stock. I had to replace the nearly new wheel cylinders. I think My brake standing ways and/or the beating it took to get the axles out killed my old wheel cylinders?? The pistons were broken!!

    Completed rear five bolt conversion

    My favorite part of the conversion! 14x7" Magnum 500's and 225/60/14 and 245/60/14 BF Goodrich T/A's

    The final product.

    Although I have not had too much time behind the wheel (finished it today) everything feels good. The new 245/60/14's hook up better then the old 235/50/13's and the 225/60/14's like the corners a little better then the 205/60/13's they replace. The front and back tires have no rubbing issues. (I have no front splash sheilds).
  8. Any deflection with the plate steel caliper brackets? Has been my only real concern with the swap aside from hose issues. Did you happen to look into using an OE hose assembly from a GM car? How long do you feel the hoses should be to allow proper movement?
  9. No deflection detected on the cailper brackets. The hoses have held up great so-far. I have driven the car every day this summer. I would feel better if they were a few inchs longer. I was concerned they would get squashed by the front coil springs, but the springs don't compress enough (even during my very spirited driving). The hoses look strained when the car is on the jack stands also. The only thing I notice is the brake pedal is about a 1/2" lower. The brakes don't feel any different at normal cruising speed. Pulling it down from over 100mph is way better feeling then the stock system. I used to think the car went faster when you hit the brakes at over 100!!

    Darryl (posts here sometimes) did a similar swap and he used stock type lines.
    (Go to "updates" (the link won't take you right to it).

    I am going to get some longer lines. The Allstar line kit came with all the fittings, so two slightly longer generic Earls -3 brake lines will fix it up.

    Hope this helps. :D
  10. Jason flippin' though the Earl's catalog brake lines:D
    The Allstar lines are 15",
    18" should give you plenty of lenght.


    (2) P/N 63010118 18" long -3 female swivel both ends size 3 hose
    (2) P/N 997631 10mm Banjo -3 adapters
    (2) P/N 977520 10mm x1.50 bango bolts
    (2) P/N 989543 3/8" female to -3 male threaded adapter

    Allstar or generic parts store brake line clips:

    All50150 "u" shaped brake line clips
  11. I don't think those will work, but these would work. Note you can change the two last two digits of the part numbers to change the length.

    Then you just need a couple of these

    And a couple of these

    The ones you picked out are intended for Mustang II cailipers. (Not the GM metric that the "Big" brake kits use)
  12. It was my impression from the speedway site that the only difference was the length and the banjo bolt used. I took it as the actual banjo itself was the same on all.

    I like the Earl's better, factory terminated ends.
  13. The banjo would be a 7/16 on the II lines, You would need the 3/8" A.K.A (10mm) banjo to work with the GM metric cailpers. :D
  14. Kit linked lists 7/16 bolt on the caliper. Hoses appear to be offered for several variations:

    6178562 Front DOT Approved Brake Line Kit
    1969 - 1977 GM with 7/16"-20 caliper thread
    Comes with 16" Brake Lines

    6178565 Front DOT Approved Brake Line Kit
    1974 - 1977 Mustang II with 7/16"-24 caliper thread
    Comes with 19" Brake Lines

    6178561 Front DOT Approved Brake Line Kit
    1978-Up GM with 10mm - 1.5 caliper thread
    Comes with 16" Brake Lines

    This is where I came upo with the idea that a guy could buy the 19" line kit and swap the bolt for the GM bolt (both 7/16, diff thread pitch). Kit specs the early calipers:

    Kit Includes:

    New 11" brake rotor, 5 x 4-1/2"
    Semi-metallic brake pads
    GM Caliper slide bolts
    Reman. metric calipers (7/16"-20 inlets)
    Mustang II brake brackets
    New bearing and seal adapters
    Dust caps
    Does not include washers or spindle nuts

    Ford bolt pattern 5 on 4-1/2" (increases track width 1/2").

    Probably go with the earl's anyway, I prefer the swaged lines for street use. Little too much at stake.
  15. The cailpers came with two different threads. 7/16"-20 or 10X1.5" The lines you linked would work with the kit you linked. Generally AN -3 brake lines come with either 3/8" (10 mm) or 7/16" ends on them so the kit for the 7/16" kit would be intended for 7/16" Banjo bolts. The hole in the line would be too large for a 10mm banjo bolt.
    10mm (3/8" line)
    7/16 Banjo

    From the pictures they look the same, but there not, likely the same with the speedway lines.
  16. I broke an axle one time after having mine all re drilled, went to the junkyard and bought maverick axles, slid right in and they were already 5 lug, wish I knew that the first time around. mavericks are not so easy to find anymore but its the easiest way
  17. Want to put 5 lug wheels on my 1976 Cobra II. What year Maverick axles did you use? Thanks for any information on this swap.
  18. The only axles that fit in a Mustang II 8" rear end are custom made ones or stock Mustang II axles! Some say maverick (Too short), Some say 60's Mustang(too long). I beat the snot out of the II all summer 300HP + 100HP shot of nitrous. Have your axles re-drilled or have some new ones made. In your case the re-drilled Mustang II axles will be plenty strong enough.
  19. Mustang Steve's new Cobra-to-MustangII kit:

    cobrabrakes (near the bottom of the page)

    Price $230

    User supplies:
    Drum brake hub from 65-73 Mustang or mid size Ford
    Wheel bearings and seals for Mustang II
    Cobra caliper
    Cobra rotor
    Brake hose

    You could also probably use a Granada disc with the rotor cut off of the hub, but would need to install longer studs. However this would push your wheel out further (which might be great if you are using late model offset wheels).

    I'm betting that his 8" rear disc kit could be used on the MII 8" rear (or even 6.75" rear) if you redrilled the adapter to fit the axle housing flange.

    Actually a 13" disc kit is a bit overkill unless you are doing some serious racing or track time. Plus it requires a 17" wheel. I personally am looking for an 11" kit that uses the late Mustang GT calipers and 11" discs so that I can use a 15" wheel. And just to make it really interesting, I want to use my stock 4-lug pattern! :)

    Attached Files: