Think I'm gonna put an Eaton on my car

Well, what makes your entire response meaningless is that my car is NOT a race car. It's a daily driven street car and will never see the track, so the "heaton" as you call it will be just fine.

I've owned an S trimmed car and even with getting a good deal on a complete kit for 2 grand, I still had to buy all the supporting hardware and get a tune which put me over 3 grand. This is a cool little project and it's not intended to compete with competition systems, it's more of a novelty than anything else.

And by the way, tell an 03/04 Cobra with a Kenne Bell strapped to it that a 5.0 with a S trim poses a threat to it! Better yet, tell it to this guy:



double post




Are you seriously trying to compare a Kenne Bell'd 03 Cobra to a stock S trimmed 95??

1500 for a vortech kit?? ill give you 100$ right now if you find a complete kit, and im sorry a car running the vortech kit with 8lbs of boost vs the eaton running 8lbs is not going to kill it, and if you got traction the eaton will kill the vortech on the street on every run!!!!!, you get boost at 3500 rpm with the vortech , you get boost off idle with a roots/wipple/screw type blower, so lets compare you get 8lbs of boost between 3500-6000 rpm or 8lbs of boost between 1500-5500. and you dont need gears to run the eaton, and im sorry its just like anything you polish/powdercoat the eaton setup and pulleys and i believe it looks better then some hunk of **** sitting in front of your alternator making everything a **** to get at because its in the way of everything, i will go out on a limb and say on a street car the eaton will perform better and be alot more fun and not to mention when you pop the hood at a show it wont look like every other mustang there


Last time I checked you don't race @ 1500 rpm....

I didn't say it would be more fun, I said it would be faster if you lined them up in the quarter..

The volumetric efficiency of an Eaton is :poo: compared to an S-trim..

The only thing that is harder to get to after the Vortech install is the #1 plug, which can still be accessed from the bottom.. It takes me a half hour and I can have the entire system off. minus the mounting brackets.

And you CAN find a used Vortech for $1500.. Key word.. Used, just like the Eaton that you will be using, plus you don't have to weld on a throttle body and all the other junkyard :poo: that Joey used on his "prototype".
 
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find me a used kit for 1500 put the link right here, if you do i will buy it right now? i just sold a sq kit that wasnt complete for 1800$ , your missing the point, and you said in your post you didnt want to say anything in his posts but you have no problem doing it here behind his back? lol nice............ joey has more smarts in his back pocket compared to you and unlike you he is a pretty stand up guy that just put some cool :poo: together for cheap for us to play with and have fun


Are you seriously trying to compare a Kenne Bell'd 03 Cobra to a stock S trimmed 95??




Last time I checked you don't race @ 1500 rpm....

I didn't say it would be more fun, I said it would be faster if you lined them up in the quarter..

The volumetric efficiency of an Eaton is **** compared to an S-trim..

The only thing that is harder to get to after the Vortech install is the #1 plug, which can still be accessed from the bottom.. It takes me a half hour and I can have the entire system off. minus the mounting brackets.

And you CAN find a used Vortech for $1500.. Key word.. Used, just like the Eaton that you will be using, plus you don't have to weld on a throttle body and all the other junkyard **** that Joey used on his "prototype".
 
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Thanks for posting that link. That new setup does look a ton better. He still doesn't have the belt routing worked out on it yet though. I was thinking, all the modular engines that come with an Eaton have a dedicated drive for it, which is really how they need to be run. Seeing as he has it setup with Fox accessories, he probably doesn't have a choice. However, with your SN engine being 3" shorter, if you run the Eaton he has setup, the nose will stick out far enough that you could actually have a dedicated drive on it. In fact, you would probably have to set the pulley back about another inch to get a dedicated drive on it. I think you actually have an advantage with the SN setup. You would just need to get another crank pulley on there, which shouldn't be a problem, and then work out a tensioner for it. You might even be able to just put another pulley on your stock tensioner, or something like that and have it tension both belts.

As a whole, I don't see running at Eaton as a problem. You have stock compression, and even at 6lbs of boost it should make good power. Put a 50 shot of nitrous on it, and it will solve all your heat problems. I know you aren't a fan of nitrous, but in this case it's no different then adding meth, and it will make a lot of good power.

As for the other argument, Centrifugal is going to beat a Kenne-Bell every day hands down. There is no comparison between the two. Maybe not an S-trim or a Powerdyne, but a T-trim or better and there is no comparison. The only advantage to a Kenne Bell is low end torque which is meaningless in a Mustang.

Kurt
 
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You can find an S-trim kit for a Foxbody all day long. If you want one for an SN, you have to wait around a long time for it. They just didn't sell anywhere near as many of them, and the used market reflects that.

Kurt
 
Before we get into a pissing match I will say that Vortech puts out top notch products. They are tried and true superchargers and I loved every minute of mine. And if money was no object I would get a V1 S trim and call it a day. But I am intrigued by this Eaton setup and I think it's a great way to use up all these left over superchargers from all the 03/04 Cobras that went with whipples/kenne bells. I understand that the complete lack of bottom end is WHY the Cobra's used these blowers and that our 5.0's more than make up in the low end department... even completely stock!

What I like most about this is a young man trying to be innovative and create a niche market that no one has seemed to really explore. Not to mention I know that when I order my kit, I'm helping this guy support his family, an American family.. and that right there makes it well worth it in my eyes.
 
What I like most about this is a young man trying to be innovative and create a niche market that no one has seemed to really explore. Not to mention I know that when I order my kit, I'm helping this guy support his family, an American family.. and that right there makes it well worth it in my eyes.


And there's nothing wrong with that :couch:
 
yea running a 50/75 shot of nitrous will cool the intake charge, i used to run a 75 shot on my 174 B&m blower combo on my 85 notch, and that combo was a 93 cobra engine with a f303 cam full bolt ons and worked heads and i would kill almost anything i raced on the streets including alot of vortech efi mustangs, but that car was a freak of nature and ran high 10s all day long , i sold that car with 200,000 miles on that motor and it was beat to piss and i guess its still running today
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i have a bunch more of it but i cant find them, that car was white,then this color then ended up black with chrome cobra r's when i sold it. this setup ran flawless only flaw i had was the original 6 rib setup it had. no matter what i would do i could not get it to stop spitting off the belt coming off a hard run, i ended up having to spend 800$ for a 10 rib upgrade, after that it was fine
 
Keep it civil guys.

A new FOX Vortech SCi Kit is $1899 with free shipping. There just isn't a lot of the V1 kits around anymore, even more scarce for 94-95 cars. Maybe a used kit will go for less. In my local Craigslist there's a FOX Vortech V2 used kit for $1800 shipped or best offer.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VORTECH-4FA...ies&vxp=mtr&hash=item230f0a13fa#ht_1052wt_905

A new 94-95 S-Trim V2 at $2100.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vortech-2E1...es&vxp=mtr&hash=item48425603e2#ht_2371wt_1139

I'm also a big Vortech S-Trim V1 fan since owning one. I also had a 500HP 1986 Buick Grand National with a big old Garret Turbo that made over 500 ft. lbs of torque out a 3.8L V6. I love the torque game. For my next project I'm considering doing a Kenne Bell 2.2L with an air to air cooler just like the dude with the red coupe did in the FOX forum. If this doesn't go down I'll get the tried and true Vortech kit. I'll be happy either way.
 
My Kenne Bell was ugly and slow, but thenI added the E-cam of fury (remember that?)...now, instead of the slight whistle/whirr sound it made.... it says...warp speed....it makes 7000 hp, is better looking than this months centerfold and grinds Vortechs through its rotors.....:confused: I tried both and went with a KB...to each their own.....

But, good luck with that Eaton deal....i read through some of those threads a while ago......neat.
 

I believe that's just a blower, not a kit. They keep referring to it as "A supercharger" and not a kit. It's probably one of those ads designed to mislead you so that when a box comes in with just a head unit in it they can tell you "We never said it was a kit!"

If that is indeed the price for a brand new kit I'd be all over it!

edit: I don't know, this may be a kit. They want 80.00 to ship it and that sounds about right for a complete kit. If that's true what a freakin' steal!
 
I did some checking and it is just for a supercharger head unit. I went to their website and cross referenced the sku#. Then I searched their site for the entire kit and it was like over 3 grand. Funny how they want 80 bucks to ship a part that weighs 18 lbs on the Ebay ad.
 
There are tons of Vortech kits on the Corral classifieds. If you want to reference a good deal, you'll find it there. Like I said, one pops up for an SN only once in awhile.

Kurt
 
Hokay, so. I went out to the garage to stare at my Mustang engine for a little bit and think about how you would route the belt. I firmly believe the blower should be on it's own belt, but the engine is so crowded on the front. The other problem came with the water pump. On the Eaton equipped mod motors, the belt generally comes straight down the front of the engine to the crank with 2 pullies mounted to a plate to guide it. This obviously won't work on the SN, because the water pump pulley is so dang big, where as it is very flat and recessed on the mod motor. And then it hit me, run the damn belt around the water pump pulley altogether. I went out there with some string to check straight lines, and found that if you mount another pulley on top of the current idler pulley it should clear the water pump pulley down to an extra crank pulley. The two pullies would have to be able to rotate at different speeds. Here's how you do it. You remove the bolt and replace it with a longer piece of all thread, or just a longer bolt that is threaded the whole way. Then weld two bushes to the bolt where the pullies will ride. Then you can use a nut and washer to hold them in place. Then you can put a tensioner outside of that. This will require building a bracket to mount it. The bracket could mount under the bolts that hold the driver's side accesory bracket on. This would require some bending and welding. I crayoned up a little diagram. This is looking from the front of the car back towards the engine. The tensioner would sit close to the power steering pump.

EatonDedicatedbeltdrive.jpg


Kurt