Engine Thinking About Buying A Used Engine, Need Advice

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by FoxMustangLvr, Feb 21, 2014.

  1. I bought a MAF converted 88' notch with no engine and transmission in it in early Jan (last month). It's a good starter project and a California car w/ 3:73 frpp gears. The guy had the engine available to come with it for an extra $1500 but I wasn't interested at the time. I was planning on transferring over my 302 out of my T-top for a while but this engine sounds pretty good but I have a concern with the heads and cam.

    Engine build details- (guy gave me all the summit order receipts!!) Comes w/ everything below

    302 rebuilt to a 306 - master rebuild kit w/ forged pistons #FEM-MKF6115A-311 $509
    Speed-pro power Forged pistons Piston, Forged, Flat, 4.030 in. Bore $53 ea (came w/ rebuild kit above)
    Edelbrock performer aluminum heads #EDL-60399 , 2.02 intake, 1.60 exhaust, 60cc chamber $1200
    EDL-7126 Intake Performer RPM $508
    bbk-1502 70mm egr plate $60
    bbk-1501 70mm throttle body $180
    bbk-1515 1-5/8" chrome headers $160
    bbk-1521 H-pipe w/ converters (I already have this, came with car) $400 value
    TFS stage 2 cam $240
    75mm MAF (19lb injectors)
    fms-m6500r302 Hyd roller tappet set (lifters) $120
    bbk-1706 Fuel pressure regulator 35-70 psi $100

    fms-m8005c Aluminum radiator $260
    bci-75007 Be Cool dual 11" fans w/ controller, 2,800 cfm $300

    There is over $3k just in parts for the engine however the guy says it needs new (stronger) pushrods and improved roller rockers since he upgraded the cam. Originally the engine was built with an E303 cam and this guy put the TFS stage 2 cam in it and I'm not sure if he changed anything else (springs, rockers etc.)

    The TFS stage 2 cam has a valve Lift w/ 1.6 rocker (intake/exhaust) - .542"/.563"
    Edelbrock performer heads have Maximum Valve Lift (in):0.575 in





    Please chime in on suggestions, questions I should ask etc.

    Asking price is $1,500 and this guy seems to be a trust worthy guy and really smart with Foxbody 5.0's.

    Thanks for your help.
    #1 FoxMustangLvr, Feb 21, 2014
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2014
  2. Sounds like a poorly thought out mismosh of parts.

    He may be nice (remember he's trying to sell you something) but saying he's smart with foxbody's may be a bit of an overstatement.

    Stronger pushrods? He put all those parts together with stock rockers? Sounds like he screwed up the pushrods and broke the roller rockers.

    You list the new value on those parts. The used value is probably 1/3 of that and the pistons mean nothing since 302 pistons are plenty good for the stock block.

    Sounds like you would be buying someone else's headache.

    Hard to say if you should buy it.
    I for one trust a factory ford explorer engine over a rebuilt 306, so to me the shortblock is worthless.
    Decent value in the top end and extra's, but then again it's not like they are very desirable parts either.

    Lastly, who built the engine and assembled it? If it was the owner, i'd pass.
  3. This guy got the motor the way it is from the person he bought the car from. He added the TFS stage 2 cam.

    Thanks for the reply, I'm thinking it's over priced as well for mostly average parts with unknown mileage and builder.

    Thanks for you input 2000xp8
  4. Allways call the manfacturer , ask trick Flow if it needs diff pushrods and rockers for that cam, maybe they told him that

    If you spent 3000.00 dollars on the motor how much less would you want to sell it for ?
  5. I actually don't think that's way off in price. Yes you may need to throw some RR,springs,pushrods in it. Pull the covers and check for any wear or broken parts. As far as ptv clearance you should check but with aftermarket pistons it should be fine. Heck the heads should bring 500-800$ on the used market. Even at 2000xp's example of 1/3 used prices if you could get it for 1k it would be a good buy. I do think it would need bigger inj though(19# should be too small) more like 24's
  6. Ya, i read it over a dozen times it was kinda tough to price since nothing jumps out at me and says "buy me quick".
    I was thinking $1000-$1200 would be worth it.

    Likely i would take the heads off, and see what's going on too.

    I just have a distaste for rebuilt 306's, especially of unknown origin. I've seen 250,000 mile stock engines that run better than 1000 mile rebuilds.
  7. You have a bunch of mismatched parts and a budget short block build. The first thing is what is your goal? You can always try and negotiate that price down, sell the parts off you don't want to use and build a motor that will perform better
  8. I'd like to get to 280-300 rwhp. I passed on the opportunity to buy the engine. He said there's also a ticking sound coming from it (which I think he recommends new pushrods and RR's). It's too risky for my taste. I think it would be a decent deal if there wasn't any issues or needs. If it was ready to install and start driving i'd probably change my mind. He's also firm on the price.

    Thanks for the input guys. Over the weekend I picked up a good set of GT-40's (heavy as phuc!!!). I'm going to get them rebuilt and ported and start piecing something together for next winter to build.

    Can anyone suggest a cam for those heads? Custom grind? (by who)? I'm thinking about Eddi RPM or Track heat for intake, 70mm BBK TB and 75mm pro flow MAF, 24lb injectors & 255 fuel pump.
  9. what's your budget. You can either get an OTC comp cam, TFS cam that will do well or for another $50 call ED at TFI and get a custom cam that will do better. Once you decide on a cam, that will dictate what springs to buy, You are better off putting on the stock explorer intake as it flows within 10% of the others for 1/4 the price- port the upper to 70MM to match the TB and send the lower out to Tom Moss for porting and it will outlfow most aftermarket intakes.
  10. I have a little more money to spend on other parts since i'm going the GT-40 route and saving money there. Seems like quarter of the price for the Explorer intake is made up with shipping and machining costs. I'll still consider it when it comes time to purchase an intake. First I want to send the heads out to get re-worked and opened up. Then I'll pick a cam and see what intake will work best with it.

    Winter around here typically starts around October and that's when i'll park the car and pull the motor to do the H/C/I upgrade. I have until then to piece the combo together assuming my Wife and kids let me keep some $$ for myself. :rolleyes:
  11. The stronger push rod comment worries me. Any .083 wall hardened push rod will be more than enough for any hyd. Roller. That being said it either had the wrong parts in it from the get go which tells me pass or he is full of crap and tells me pass. In all honesty it sounds like a very underwhelming combo