Thoughts On Block Seal Just To See If It Helps
- Thread starter from6to8
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
Code 41 can also be due to carbon plugging the driver’s side Thermactor air crossover tube on the back of the engine. The tube fills up with carbon and does not pass air to the driver’s side head ports, Remove the tube and clean it out so that both sides get good airflow: this may be more difficult than it sounds. You need something like a mini rotor-rooter to do the job because of the curves in the tube. Something like the outer spiral jacket of a flexible push-pull cable may be the thing that does the trick.
yeah i'm not even sure which tube you are referring to. I just googles some images and so far nothing
yeah i'm not even sure which tube you are referring to. I just googles some images and so far nothing
View attachment 121742
View attachment 121743
Hey jrichker, the first thing i did this morning with a cold car was repair my ECT sensor's wiring. Actually I had changed the pigtail connector to the ECT sensor but wanted to see how it would work before I crimped anything. I think it was last year when I channged out the connector and used the one from my v6 wiring harness even though the wires on the v6 one were a little bit bigger and different colors, i wanted to try it out so for all of that time I just had it tied together good and taped up. It was like that for quite awhile with no issues. Just wanted to go ahead and crimp those wires together.
So after I did that i unplugged the chip and batt for about 30 minutes, plugged back up then went on a 30 minute drive. The car drove ok only but still appeared to be having some issues with the overall feel of the car and that lower end miss, noticable hesitation. I pulled the codes again and here is what I got this time:
KOEO
Still got the 411 and 511 but not the 189 and 556
411- Cannot control rpm during KOER low RPM check
511- EEC Processor ROM Test failed
KOER:
still got the 412 and 136 but not the 116
412 - Cannot control rpm during KOER high rpm check
136 - HEGO shows system always lean left
During the cylinder balance test i still got the 1, 3, 4 and 5
So what's the next thing to try/check?
Don't crimp the ECT wiring, solder the wires and cover the solder joints with heat shrink tubing.
Crimp joints can let in moisture which make corrosion and poor connections.
See http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=7 for tips on how to make perfect solder joints.
The idea is that you fix all the codes, not just some of them.
Do the code15/511 test path and check the voltages and wiring for the computer. Use the attached diagrams for your model year car.
If you can't fix this code with repairs to the wiring, the computer is probably bad.
Next after fixing the code 511, clear the codes and check the O2 sensor codes. Any remaining O2 sensor problems are probably with the wring. check the O2 sensors for voltage output using the information in the 41/91 O2 sensor code test path.
In order to fix the goofy cylinder balance test results, you need to fix the 411 idle speed code. If the computer cannot get the engine to run a steady 1450-1600 RPM, the cylinder balance test will show random failing cylinders when it is run.
Do the Surging Idle checklist below to fix the 411 code.
You guys with idle/stall problems could save a lot of time chasing your tails if you would go through the Surging Idle Checklist. Over 50 different people contributed information to it. The first two posts have all the fixes, and steps through the how to find and fix your idle problems without spending a lot of time and money. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions. You can post questions to that sticky and have your name and idle problem recognized. The guys with original problems and fixes get their posts added to the main fix.
It's free, I don't get anything for the use of it except knowing I helped a fellow Mustang enthusiast with his car. At last check, it had more than 134,000 hits, which indicates it does help fix idle problems quickly and inexpensively.
Last edited:
Ok got the ECM from autozone today as well as a TFI Module. Came home, took my ecu out and put in the new one in with my chip installed. I did unplug the battery as well. Started the car up and let it warm up. After it warmed up and i went to take it for a drive, I noticed the CEL was on so i switched it off and pulled the codes.Don't crimp the ECT wiring, solder the wires and cover the solder joints with heat shrink tubing.
Crimp joints can let in moisture which make corrosion and poor connections.
See http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=7 for tips on how to make perfect solder joints.
The idea is that you fix all the codes, not just some of them.
Do the code15/511 test path and check the voltages and wiring for the computer. Use the attached diagrams for your model year car.
If you can't fix this code with repairs to the wiring, the computer is probably bad.
Next after fixing the code 511, clear the codes and check the O2 sensor codes. Any remaining O2 sensor problems are probably with the wring. check the O2 sensors for voltage output using the information in the 41/91 O2 sensor code test path.
In order to fix the goofy cylinder balance test results, you need to fix the 411 idle speed code. If the computer cannot get the engine to run a steady 1450-1600 RPM, the cylinder balance test will show random failing cylinders when it is run.
Do the Surging Idle checklist below to fix the 411 code.
You guys with idle/stall problems could save a lot of time chasing your tails if you would go through the Surging Idle Checklist. Over 50 different people contributed information to it. The first two posts have all the fixes, and steps through the how to find and fix your idle problems without spending a lot of time and money. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions. You can post questions to that sticky and have your name and idle problem recognized. The guys with original problems and fixes get their posts added to the main fix.
It's free, I don't get anything for the use of it except knowing I helped a fellow Mustang enthusiast with his car. At last check, it had more than 134,000 hits, which indicates it does help fix idle problems quickly and inexpensively.
koeo: 511 still and also the 111 system pass
koer: 111
I also noticed some water misting out of the tails at this juncture but it later stopped. I did put on the new Tfi module and later on in further diagnosing when i checked the tails i didnt see the concrete below the tails wet, not sure if i looked back in the tails again. Rechecked codes and got the same thing as above. I did notice that during the koer test the second time, after it finished doing the test , I left it running and noticed every few minutes the rpm would go up to about 1500 for bout 30 secs and then drop down and the car acted as if it was going to cut off then would attempt to do the koer tests again but wouldnt because of the rpms staying up then dropping, attempting test then staying up dropping, ect.
Checked the TPS and it appeared fine with car off and checking it at idle and sweeping it from idle to WOT with throttle blade. With car running and checking it, it seemed to be a little jumpy when checking volts at idle. Cant remember what if I swept it while it was running because I was concerned about why it was somewhat jumpy with car running. Drove the car and it drove ok, not to bad. I did though got a CEL at some junctures while driving. Also i noticed while leaving a parking lot or slowing up for a light the idle would sometime rise up to about 1500 for maybe 10-15 secs. Also noticed at one point the car seemed to have loaded up while driving. Like too much fuel or something, or clogged up or something then it leveled out some. Still the low end miss/hesitation upon taking off.
If the TPS was out of range or going bad shouldnt it throw a code? Not sure why it would be fine with car off but switched on and act different with it running. Also the IAC might be bad or stopped up some. Over the years I have cleaned it some and replaced once but car didnt really seem to benefit much so i put old one back on. It very well could be faulty though. Tommorow I will check the timing and reset the idle. Might take off the IAC and clean, clean air filter as well. NOt sure if the other ECM helped or not really so will do those things and see what happens.....
If I took the top intake off and there was an intake gasket leak, would I be able to possibly see where it is torn at? I have changed the intake gasket once or twice before since putting on that intake back in 04. What causes the intake gasket to tear/blow if the car doesnt run hot? Not sure if it is or not but want to diagnose for possibly.
The "Surging Idle Checklist” has the proper procedure for cleaning the IAC and troubleshooting the other idle problems. If you haven't already do so, make a visit and read through it.
Just pulled my intake off as a part of my going to clean the throttle body and this is what I saw: going to try and post a pic here straight from my phone
just that one runner. I changed the intake gasket about 6 yrs ago and about 40+k miles. First time I had an intake bolt that had rung off and i was ineperienced at the time and didnt fix it right away thats why i ended up fixing it in 07 when the intake gasket blew. I did use felpro # 1250 but i thought i read something where guys were saying there was a better overall gasket to use. Is there one?
And what causes an intake gasket to blow if the car doesnt run hot? Is it just age and mileage?
just that one runner. I changed the intake gasket about 6 yrs ago and about 40+k miles. First time I had an intake bolt that had rung off and i was ineperienced at the time and didnt fix it right away thats why i ended up fixing it in 07 when the intake gasket blew. I did use felpro # 1250 but i thought i read something where guys were saying there was a better overall gasket to use. Is there one?
And what causes an intake gasket to blow if the car doesnt run hot? Is it just age and mileage?
Attachments
Is your question why is there yellow stuff in that intake port? What is the nature of the yellow stuff? Wet, smells like coolant or something else? There is no coolant that circulates in that part of the intake manifold. Do you have the throttle body still plumbed with the EGR coolant? Pressurize the EGR coolant passages with compressed air and listen for air at that port.
there is no EGR on the car
look at this intake gasket and tell me if you think that would of been the cause of water getting in there.
i'm confident this was the main culprit of my problems
Attachments
![20131214_154416[1].jpg](https://cdn.stangnet.com/data/attachments/42/42130-e82e53054b3f86152ee2fff829f85e0e.jpg)
The pictures posted are of the intake manifold plenum . I did not see a gasket, so I have no way of knowing what damage the gasket has suffered.
Here's what the gasket is supposed to look like:
What does your gasket look like?
There is no coolant circulating through this gasket. All there are are intake ports and the EGR gas port in the center of the gasket.
Here's what the gasket is supposed to look like:
What does your gasket look like?
There is no coolant circulating through this gasket. All there are are intake ports and the EGR gas port in the center of the gasket.
i posted a thumbnail of my engine with the entire intake off. No my plenum gasket is the more square one for the edelbrock performer rpm 2 and i'm talking about the intake manifold gasketThe pictures posted are of the intake manifold plenum . I did not see a gasket, so I have no way of knowing what damage the gasket has suffered.
Here's what the gasket is supposed to look like:
What does your gasket look like?
There is no coolant circulating through this gasket. All there are are intake ports and the EGR gas port in the center of the gasket.
![20131214_154416[1].jpg](/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,quality=80,sharpen=1/https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums/attachments/20131214_154416-1-jpg.85935/ "20131214_154416[1].jpg")
Still not completely sure how the coolant got into that runner specifically, but yes, it looks like your gaskets squished around the intake ports. Felpro makes a version of the 1250's that have a steel core and cannot be over tightened very easily. Might want to give those a try.
Joe
Joe
yeah im not sure either. I have to call edelbrock in the morning because I've read the instructions again where they said to not use the steel core one's for that the aluminum intake couldnt be torqued enough to prevent a leak without damaging the intake. I've read where guys said that thousands of guys have used them anyway though so i just want to see what they say in the morning and i will ask alot of questions
The only water passages in the lower intake manifold are the first ports on either side of the front of the manifold. It seems unlikely that water would get that far back without leaving some trace in the intake runners more towards the front.
even if you look at the gasket and where the water jackets are on front of lower, by it being torn up that badly, would water not be sporatic and get that far back?
what are the only options you think water would be in that one port only?
Water having leaked from the front water passage into the lifter valley would have created the water/oil milkshake we often hear about. I may have missed something in your previous post, but I don't remember it being mentioned.
Back to the EGR spacer:
1.) Do you have a spacer between the throttle body and the upper intake manifold? Yes or no.
2.) Are the EGR coolant lines connected to it? - Yes or no.
Back to the EGR spacer:
1.) Do you have a spacer between the throttle body and the upper intake manifold? Yes or no.
2.) Are the EGR coolant lines connected to it? - Yes or no.
yes i have the edelbrock elbow adapter if thats considered a spacer
there are nothing but vacuum lines running to a Tee tree on that elbow adapter
Similar threads
