Progress Thread Throttle Position Sensor Adjustment ?

SF Lex

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Mar 8, 2016
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CoCo County, California
When i upgraded my throttle body, mass air flow, and added a cold air intake, i replaced the throttle body sensor with a new one. Every since it gives me a engine light error inside. I read that its suppose to be like at below 1 voltage or something ? I don't have any device to read the voltage, is there a easy way to fix this ? Any advice would be helpful. I want that engine light to go away, and i dont' know if by not having the sensor at the correct voltage, if its going to mess something else up ? Does anyone know ?
I found this video, but again i don't have any voltage readers, and i'm unsure if i should mess with it like this guy. Not sure if thats safe ?

 
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Go to harbor freight and get a $20 multimeter.


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Would this do the trick ?
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PFM0/W2974.oap

14481883_1177323135660565_7190762038377606965_o.jpg
 
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Anything within 0.6 - 1.1 volts is in spec. Outside the range throws a code.

Adjusting to 0.999 volts is an outdated myth.


Multimeters are pretty cheap. At least one suitable for automotive troubleshooting. I'll stick to using my Greenlee when I do home electrical work



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Anything within 0.6 - 1.1 volts is in spec. Outside the range throws a code.

Adjusting to 0.999 volts is an outdated myth.


Multimeters are pretty cheap. At least one suitable for automotive troubleshooting. I'll stick to using my Greenlee when I do home electrical work



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I just went and purchased this one here. I can go back if its wrong.

http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-clamp-meter-96308.html
 
The stock air box is a true cai. The one you purchased has a bend in the pipe right before the MAF this causes turbulence in the air stream throwing off the MAF reading. To remedy this condition it may he necessary to clock the MAF from the 12 position closer to the 3 position.

IMHO "cai" suck stock box w silencer removed and a good filter will flow more air than even the gt40 heads/intake need.
 
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A new throttle position sensor should not throw a code. You could have a power issue or ground that's throwing the code. You need to get a set of wire probes that have a alligator clip on other end you need to see if you have 5 volts at reference wire, then check between green and ground I believe to set at 1.0 volt. I've had a 86 gt and a 89 Lincoln mark 7 same motor. You need to file some of the plastic of the tps switch to adjust it. Again mine never seemed to trip light. Check to be sure all wires have power and ground. They go directly into computer so be carefull testing. You also could have gotten a bum switch from your parts store.


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If TPS voltage is below 0.6v at idle, you get a code 63

If it's higher than 1.1 v at idle, you get a code 53.

If neither of those two codes are present, your TPS is fine, nothing to adjust.

Anything between 0.6-1.1 is fine. Run the codes first. No code 53/63? Move on to troubleshooting elsewhere


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All i know is i probably should not have messed with it, cause now i'm not sure if its idling right. I remember way back when i installed these parts - Wasn't i suppose to take off the positive on the battery, and leave it off for about 15 minutes so it can resest ? I want it to get it right, but my reader just isn't reading numbers until i turn off the key. Then it reads ?
These instruction seem ligit. I'm unsure if i have the right sensor.

file:///C:/Users/Big%20AL/Downloads/INS013.pdf
 
All i know is i probably should not have messed with it, cause now i'm not sure if its idling right. I remember way back when i installed these parts - Wasn't i suppose to take off the positive on the battery, and leave it off for about 15 minutes so it can resest ?

Not for the TPS. It's widely misunderstood how it works. Basically each time you start the engine, the ecu sets whatever voltage it reads at idle as its "zero" point and assumes any voltage above it is an increase in throttle, and asjust fuel/timing accordingly.

That's why the engine may run a bit smoother and such while you "adjust" it. It thinks you are increasing throttle, so it changes the fuel/timing.

As soon as the car it turned off, it's all for naught as the ecu resets the idle zero point each time. That's why the "set TPS to .99" thing is rarely heard these days.

The adjust and unplug computer thing is the idle set adjustment. Unplug the IAC, set the idle to a low stable idle using the set screw, then disconnect computer 30 mins, and plug IAC bsck in, reconnect, and start.

TPS idle range is 0.6-1.1v
Wot is 3.7 volts

If you are in those specs, you are fine.

As for code dumping. The innova 3145 makes things simple. It's $25 from various sources and makes code reading a breeze



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Guess I was lucky with mine. The idle didn't change much on mine no matter where I set it. The idle wasn't perfect but adjusting to 1.0 volt didn't seem to make it any better/ worse. What did make a diff was spark plug wire routing, but definitely get the tps set right. The probes are touchy when you try to get reading, be patient. I could never get the ones on my 89 Lincoln right for testing, but a friend who also is a mechanic could get a reading no problem.


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Not for the TPS. It's widely misunderstood how it works. Basically each time you start the engine, the ecu sets whatever voltage it reads at idle as its "zero" point and assumes any voltage above it is an increase in throttle, and asjust fuel/timing accordingly.

That's why the engine may run a bit smoother and such while you "adjust" it. It thinks you are increasing throttle, so it changes the fuel/timing.

As soon as the car it turned off, it's all for naught as the ecu resets the idle zero point each time. That's why the "set TPS to .99" thing is rarely heard these days.

The adjust and unplug computer thing is the idle set adjustment. Unplug the IAC, set the idle to a low stable idle using the set screw, then disconnect computer 30 mins, and plug IAC bsck in, reconnect, and start.

TPS idle range is 0.6-1.1v
Wot is 3.7 volts

If you are in those specs, you are fine.

As for code dumping. The innova 3145 makes things simple. It's $25 from various sources and makes code reading a breeze



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Well my reader is not reading the voltage. But i adjusted the sensor to a low point, with minor throttle. It won't turn off or anything, but i will follow this info.
Yes, Check engine light is gone !!
 
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