Thumper Performance E7 Heads : Who has them and how is the performance?

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by fiveoho, Jan 25, 2008.

  1. I started out with words of encouragement on building a combo
    with a more efficient head.

    I didn't mean to try and sway anybody away from their plans
    I certainly did want to try and show a different option
    Giving some info that would go beyond hear say and opinion

    And yes ... that includes ... my opinion as well ;)

    To me ... Hard Data ... It can stand or fall on its own :Word:

    I've been thinking about this thread and I've came to this conclusion :D

    I really don't have much hard data :bang:
    to back up what I've attempted to show :(

    Since I have already done the budget combo approach ......

    Well ... Simply put ... I just don't have a lot of them in my files
    That don't mean I've not looked at them :nono:

    I really have :Word: ... Many many of them :crazy:
    I just did not save many of them to my hard drive
    Here is the reason why

    I use this criteria ... you might say ... when I look at dyno pulls

    1) I look to see if it was on a DynoJet
    2) I look to see if it was done with a SAE caibration
    3) I look to see where 300#'s of torque starts and stops
    4) I look to see if hp starts to fall before 6K

    #3 is mostly why I don't have many of those combos

    The trend is usually along these lines for the bulk of those combos

    300#'s is usually not reached until 3.5K or after
    300#'s usually only is obtained for an additional 1K or a tiny bit more

    As for #4 ... A good bit of those combos fall between 5 & 5.5K

    With better flowing heads ... Items #3 & #4 are more frequently obtained

    Sure ... Some oem iron head combos were the exception but they
    also dumped money into them for non budget items such as
    aftermarket intakes, cams, custom tunes and the like.

    So there you have it ...
    I can only TELL you the trends I've seen .......
    Between the various oem and aftermarket combos

    I'm gonna close out here with a little challenge for my friends here :)

    Start to pay attention to those items 1-4 when you see a pull
    You will see some eye opening things

    I've enjoyed this thread :nice:
    Hope I didn't offend anyone :eek:

    Great Discussion By All :cheers:

  2. seen a 92 fox stock bottom end with the trickflow track heat kit and supporting mods put down 310

    i love the attitude you got there with the sights set on aluminum headed combos :nice:

  3. i never seen any bad intentions or anything negative you posted in this thread. at first, you were just simply pointing out the benefits of aluminum. not what i asked for :rlaugh: , but thats ok. more info never hurts anyone. and i paid attention:) . hey, if i can find a set of alum's at a steal, i'll grab em. if not, prob will go iron. thanks for the graphs. visuals are always good :nice: you post your opinions and thats ok.

    i appreciate EVERYONE'S comments here. i can never have enough info and insight. turned into a heck of a thread.

    keep posting :flag:
  4. Why didn't my combo ever make this list...?

    ported P's, custom cam, edel rpm, 24's, C&L 76, MAC LT's, Dr Gas, Bassani BX :)

    Oh yeah... 310 (maybe 312rwhp?) 315tq.

  5. WOW :jaw: . killer numbers. sounds like a pretty involved set of irons.

    i'm also interestd in your old combo... GT40P Combo: 271rwhp & 303rwtq. care to give me all the details on this one also?

  6. Last combo was a set of GT40P's from Central Coast Mustang (no port work)... They had stainless valves and upgraded springs. If I remember correctly, my buddy polished the intake side and opened it up to give a better match to the 1250 felpro gaskets...but that probably did absolutely nothing. I used a Crane 2031 cam, with 1.7Cobra rockers. Port matched (94/95) cobra intake. 70mm BBK TB, 24lb injectors, C&L meter, MAC Ceramic coated LT's, DR Gas X, Bassani BX mufflers, all tuned with a Autologic chip from Powertrain Dynamics. Car ran extremely lean, pretty much on the ragged edge... at about 13.2:1 AFR.

    It was a decent combo... although ran out of steam at about 5600-5800 rpm... My new combo has extensive port work, custom cam, and RPM intake... That gave me almost 40rwhp... I would say it was worth it, since I offset some of the cost when I sold the old parts..
  7. I have Thumpers on my 5.0, TMoss intake, enjoy bulletproof reliability, a kick in the ass a stock 5.0 never gave me, don't have to worry if, for some reason it overheats, about my $1000 plus heads being garbage, and have thumped on many an aluminum headed car, for considerably less money. Wouldn't consider doing any differently, if I did it again. Spend the dollars for the "higher performance" parts if you want, its not necessary.
  8. wish i could find a set of used thumpers. i dont think i have seen a used set yet :shrug:
  9. Great thread, lots of usefull info given by guys who know, and can put their thoughts down without condescending. This is why I use Stangnet. That being said, E7's can be found in my local Stangsite, and probably yours, too. Hell, guys in the classifieds here will have some. Pick up a good set, Thumper won't do junks, and save the $600 to do/ship them. Or, you could call Thumper Performance, and ask if any customer has a set, used, they might wanna part with. They were great guys to work with, and will help with whatever you want! Again, I can't stress how much I love the ones I have, and I've never dynoed my 5.0,( just for driving, does it really matter how much the numbers say?) but the 275 horse range is what the head guys told me it'll be doing, and the intake guys at TMoss concurred. After the other work on the chassis, and the 13. whatever it runs all day long, on the tires I use everyday... you get the idea. Whole motor was $1300. Easy math, to me.
  10. I picked up a set of used Thumpers from a local guy for $300 and that came with a couple of other parts. I've been happy with them so far.
  11. What I don't really get is that the arguments are made with rwhp in mind. You have cars showing lower #s on a mustang dyno w/ aly heads; take mine for example. I did 296/315 with a admittedly boogered setup on the dyno run (wrong length pushrods by .010). Going by my dyno chart, I could've done 305 + easily. IF we take these into dynojet numbers, we get something like 325rwhp or so. Proven time and again.

    Now we are comparing a head, that more than likely is being touted on a dynojet so we can see a 'big #' out of a stock head. Lets say it was midpack, and it was 270rwhp. Thats a differnce of 50+ RWHP, hell lets call that 40rwhp to really nit pick and make it less. At the flywheel that's nearly 60HP!

    PLUS, you have the added weight, PLUS you have a **** wall thickness if you decide to go boosted later, you are also a pedestal mount setup.

    Last I checked it was going to be @ $900 to get the best Thumper GT40s worked. (My brother's cobra as of like 3 weeks ago). For a few hundred dollars you can step up to a MUCH better head, loose the weight and make another 50-60HP.

    For how much HP these turds DON'T make already, that seems like a no-brainer to me. I agree with KillerCanary 110%. Then you can still get it pushed in by a stock LS1 lol. So you get mad and do a power adder. Perhaps you should read the thread started the other day (TurboGT I believe, or whoever runs the rio turbo car), and see what issues he's currently having because of stock heads. Moreso, if you go boosted, the aluminum heads will keep the heat down further, decreasing the chances of detonation.

    In all the argument is rather moot. To the OP, sorry I didn't answer your original question, but if I was in your situation on a SUPER budget, I would either hold out on a used set of aly heads, or grab some next to free GT40s and have your local machinist give them a once over to keep the costs down, and just enjoy it.

    FYI for the thumper stg I stuff it ends up coming in around $650-700 by the time they are shipped. That's as of the last week or so.
  12. One thing to post about the comment above. There are also alum. headed combos that put out the same hp numbers in the 270 range on a mustang dyno. Every combo is going to be different. Yes an alum. headed combo will save weight and with a custom cam it should make more power. That said to have an iron production head hang with an alum. headed combo is kinda cool...I like it for the fact its working with factory stuff.

    You can send the heads to a shop and have them go over things. Like deck, flux, valve job, and check springs. I had my gt40's gone over like this...I needed springs for the TFS1 cam and the bill was around $550. Now springs are going to be needed no matter if they are ported or stock in most cases and Thumber does all the other things a shop would do...mill, flux, valvejob and ports them for a IMHO small overall fee if you factor in the work done. Yes you are spending more but the work received is a lot more as well. If you already have the gt40's and do not want or have the extra to get alum. heads why not?

    Not knocking alum. heads just in the end it is all hot rodin'. If your happy with whatever route you take who cares what anyone else thinks. I would love to build a 185-205afr/cncTFS headed 347 or 351 based stroker and add a hair dryer.
  13. ^ That's also the difference between bottom of the barrel heads and a set of AFR165s like are on my ride.

    I hear what your saying though and I agree for the most part.
  14. holy old thread resurrection batman
  15. What is a stage 3 Thumper Head???
    Weight is 38-40 Lbs for the Alloy and 50 lbs for E7s, 55 lbs for the GT40s.
    264 WHP is what THAT guy made, who ever he is!! ( whos graph is that?? )
    Usual port work is 400-450.00!! add the valve job.. add the seals... add the dual springs.. moly retainers... keepers.... surfaced.. assembled.... yep!! that is $695.00.

    The Alloy heads vs the iron head is a debate that goes on for 10 years or better.. here on this board! yes??

    Just me......................................


  16. from the man himself :)
  17. I think it's an additional $120 for stainless valves too + whatever for the intake(port matched)

    My brother had JUST called a few weeks back and it was going to be like $900 for the full gung-ho stage III. You still have the whatever walls along with pedestal mount.

    Please don't get me wrong, I think if you stay budget ended, Thumper (yourself) offers a GREAT service; but when you start going nuts with them it starts leading to different alternatives.
  18. "Weight is 38-40 Lbs for the Alloy and 50 lbs for E7s, 55 lbs for the GT40s."

    What does that mean? Alloy is what? an E7? How does that compare to alum? I not sure the weights myself/