Timing?I'm lost help please

Forbidance

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Apr 30, 2018
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I have a 1995 mustang GT I'm am getting a few codes like mass air flow, air intake tempature sensor, I have the correct firing order,new spark plugs gaped at .052 and wires, fuel pressures good 40psi , I set timing to 10btdc and it bairly wants to stay running along with pooping/backfiring out of both intake and exhaust. When you do rev it up it almost has a stutter when reving, I've tried advancing timing to 14btdc and same thing. I know there's a little screw on throttle body to turn and adjust the idle rpm, as soon as I go below 1000rpm the motor shakes the whole car. I was told when I bought it that it does have a cam, I don't know what but don't think a cam would make it shake like that. Could a mass air flow cause that much trouble? And I replaced the air intake temp sensor I may need to reset codes to see if it fixed it.Any help would be appreciated, thanks
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
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Do the list step by step and it should help you resolve the issues, post any questions you have.
 

96pushrod

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May 15, 2018
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Well if you’ve got pooping going on then I’d say you got problems :D

But honestly, 94/95 cars can kind of be a crap shoot with cams. Some guys get Lucky and they work and some don’t.

You setting the timing with the spout out? If not you’re just chasing your tail.
 

Forbidance

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Apr 30, 2018
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yea im setting timing with spout out, Kinda wondering if the Mass Air Flow can be messing everything up so bad, I mean can the mass Air Flow cause low power, maybe like mis-fire or a jumpy acceleration. haven drove it down road much but from idle if i just rev it up it kinda has a jumpy/poppy rev. Ive set the timing to 10 deg btdc and it doesnt want to start but if i up it to say 15 deg it starts up but it shakes the car really bad and has that jumpy rev. Like i said after work im going over that checklist General Karthief Linked just to be sure
 

Forbidance

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I did do a EGR delete , well i didn't the previous owner did but it was done bad the old egr was there just the metal pipe was bent over and the pipe that went in the exhaust was bent over so i ordered the right plate to delete egr and the bolts for back of head also a cap for exhaust. the plug that went into the egr i just left there but that being unplugged would cause that much of a problem could it?
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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Don't pay too much attention to 'not shaking so bad at or after 1000 rpms'. The timing, spark and valve open/close events are happening so fast that it is just less noticeable.
 
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a91what

SendMeUrDataLog
Mod Dude
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Lets start at the beginning, what has been done to the car other than a basic tuneup?? was the ECU replaced or any of the harnesses? .
 

Forbidance

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Apr 30, 2018
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Ok I can tell you all i know, when it came to me someone had painted the Intake manifold and the valve covers white, i can tell motor has been out as block is painted blue and i can see new gasket and seals, To me everything that is veiwable looks stock. a few friends more mechanically inclined than i am did say the motor sounded healthy internally. The wife told me the guy said it had a cam in it. I have replaced Spark plugs & wires, distributor rotor and cap , Temps sensor, Intake air temp sensor. other than that, That is all i know...
 

Blucifer99

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Id be c
Ok I can tell you all i know, when it came to me someone had painted the Intake manifold and the valve covers white, i can tell motor has been out as block is painted blue and i can see new gasket and seals, To me everything that is veiwable looks stock. a few friends more mechanically inclined than i am did say the motor sounded healthy internally. The wife told me the guy said it had a cam in it. I have replaced Spark plugs & wires, distributor rotor and cap , Temps sensor, Intake air temp sensor. other than that, That is all i know...
Have you dumped the computer codes from the ecu yet? Thats a good start to see what the computers saying..
 

Forbidance

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Apr 30, 2018
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so i got it to running at 14deg btdc and I dont remember if i said this before but someone removed the throttle stop screw so i had to fiddle with it and the IAC to get it running but it seems to run ok and idle at about 750-800rpm i know i have a MAF Code and Intake Air temp sensor code, I did change the Intake Air temp sensor so im hoping that solved that im fixing to check the MAF. Ill try to upload a video of it running later maybe yall can hear/see something i dont,which im sure you will,lol. Its not pretty not does she run pretty but its got good compression and i want to get her back to looking and running like it should.
 

Forbidance

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lol General Karthief lets just say the wife had it towed home......:oops:.... she seen pretty.... I just seen a pic and asked if it ran ok she said yes lol
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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Vacuum looks low. Sounds funny to me.
here is where I would start, pull #1 plug, hell pull them all, it will make turning the engine over by hand easier, bump it around till you feel compression in the #1 cylinder, stick a screw driver in the plug hole and turn the engine by hand till the piston is a tdc, feeling the piston moving. you may have to turn it back and forth a little to get it there, look at the timing marks, it should be at 0, tdc, this will tell you if your balancer is off.
 

Forbidance

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Apr 30, 2018
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ok wife will be home later tonight ill get her to help me try to make sure i get it to TDC. i pulled the #1 sparkplug and turned it to 0tdc and could fill the piston at the top would it matter that much if it was like bairly on the downstroke, is it that precise.