TJ's Eaton M90 Build-Up Thread

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by tjh566, Jan 8, 2007.

  1. You have to do your WOT pass and IMMEDIATELY shut the engine off. The only way to get a true reading of the A/F condition of each plug. If you have one or two that are running a little hot, I think you can step back a heat range or two on those cylinders. Anybody have an idea on that?
  2. yeah, sorry i dident explain further about a plug chop. You have to use fairly new plugs, and do a WOT RUN, then immeditally shut it down. If it idles for 3 secs it will not read correctly. Then check the insulator on the plug, as far up as possible. Check ALL of them, that is the only way to know for sure.

    If one is running hot then its lean.....changing a heatrange wont help will just have to richen the whole car up a bit to compensate
  3. Ok wow, really didnt realize how much the belt WAS slipping, That thing is producing like 7.5psi up till like 3500, then drops off to 6 psi all the way up to 5500rpm, sweetness.

    BUT, the idler pulley did break off during the test drive that we put on and cause a problem, pics tommorrow of the carnage.

    edited the first post, more details under the bottom test drives.
  4. sorry wrong thread
  5. i wouldnt consider the performance of the vehicle to be much better until you put the car onto a dyno or run it at the track

    in cold weather your tires wont be able to hook regardless if you have the supercharger or not

    nice looking project anyhow, btw for those of you interested in a way to mount the supercharger under a stock hood (or close to it) check out this one
  6. how much boost does that provide off idle? does it have it right away or do you have to spin it up? once again...that is a great project!
  7. the boost is practically off-idle :nice:
  8. It's a little bit different, but I just bought a 89 Super Coupe. I haven't got on it much from off idle, but what I can tell so far is I'm seeing around 6-7# around 1500 and 10-11# just over 2000rpm until I let off around 4000rpm. He should be seeing something similar since it's the same blower I have.
  9. well one time I did punch it at around 1500 and it had 6+ psi, so its pretty much instant boost, whenever u floor it u got boost. but my peak boost is 7.5 psi. And thats about the max of the blower for the 5.0
  10. Fixed the Idler Pulley, See bottom of main post :)

    Tweecer Soon!
  11. i would like to know dyno numbers. and i would like to more on what all was changed. i have an SC blower just sitting in the garage. an maybe also try this.
  12. Well, It was alot of work, some trips to the machine shop and alot of welding. If you arent able to do all that I wouldnt even bother with this project. Yes it works well, better than I thought it would. But the only reason I decied to try this was because I had access to a machine shop and a sheetmetal shop and my dad is a welder. As far as modification to the blower there was none, the discharge plate ontop I cut off then threaded ring and the lip that was under it. to the inlet I cut off most of it, boxed it up and put a real short 3 inch nipple on the back. If you are doing it like I did you dont need a 4" cowl hood, mine even still rubs just a touch.

    As for dyno numbers, I got a tweecer comin in soon, Im gonna self tune it a little bit after all this snow and **** clears up then take it to the dyno.

    I'll have some in car vids up once the snow is gone also.

  13. I am also looking forward to your numbers. :nice:
  14. Jim that thing pushes 8psi now that I fixed the idler, drops to 7 after like 4 grand and stays there till my shift light. I was surprised it could push that much boost.
  15. i have a few questions for you.

    i was thinking today about making a m90 fit my car and started to re-read your thread.

    i currently have a Professional Products intake on my car so i'll have to make that work with the m90 which shouldnt be hard.

    i want mine to be setup closer to the kenne bell style. such as the belt setup (have the idler on the inside compared to having it on the outside so i can keep my A/C) and also have the outlet from the m90 to the lower made out of sheetmetal.

    do you have any pics of the bracket you made to hold the idler pulley? thats all that mounts to that bracket correct?

    heres a quote from what you said:
    is the 4" cowl needed? my Cervinis Stalker Ram Air hood has a 3 1/2 inch cowl. is that enough?

    any dyno numbers yet?
  16. you might be able to squeeze it under there, mine sits just a hair above the valve cover could be lowered slightly so you *might* be able to.

    Now for the idler, Where I mounted it, I still have A/C, just have to relocate an A/C line. I mounted it with a piece of angle iron fabbed up for a pulley to fit on it, mounted to where the coil was bolted to the bracket at. The first revision snapped the piece off the bracket, the second revision, welded it back on and reinforced it with some 1/4" plate and that was good to go, then it bent the angle iron back and shredded my belt and left me sitting, right now I'm just running without the idler, went to a shorter belt. Ill take pics of the bracket if you still want me to, but remember it has to be very stong.

    Also, did you see my vids in the talk section? :nice:
  17. what about mounting it down inplace of the smog pump and running the piping up to the intake
  18. well the "problem" or I should say issue with that is the tb has the be before the supercharger.

    Also, no dyno numbers yet, soon, very soon!
  19. how come? its not before vortec/other cynt blowers or even turbos. and as long as you have some sort of vaccume controlled bypass system it should be fine :shrug:
  20. its a positive displacement blower, like a kennebell, it just doesnt work, its been tried before, you would need a HUGE bypass or 3, to make it maybe work.