Progress Thread My centrifugal ppl, how’s this deal?

[Reddevil91]

The spacer is suppose to go on top of the strut below the cc plate and no spacer under the top nut.

Got it that’s how I have it, I have two one too which kinda sit into that bushing on top of the boot. With the old senotracs that were in there they had it that way to but on the top they added a spacer, plus the stock cover and then the nut, don’t ask me why, think I had pep boys or someone install them at that point lol, there is a pic somewhere in here of them. Maybe it had a longer strut shaft? Idk but the new tokico blues I got don’t seem like they can use all that. I’ll just leave the top spacer out and tighten up that nut. So do I just impact it down till tight or am I suppose to use a certain torque spec? Everything I’ve seen is ppl just using their impacts and tightening.

 

[90sickfox]

Just tighten it and you'll be fine. German torque " gutten tigcht "

 

[Reddevil91]

Holy shizzle talk about excitement after getting that last nut off last night!! And Im meaning off the booster ha Idk what that little plastic peice is that is blocking it but I wanted to rip it out. So anyways back to disconnecting from the brake pedal. So is it as easy as taking the pin out and removing and pulling the booster out. Got the MC out and began to pull the booster and then remembered about the pedal part. Also got these guys in and not gonna lie with all the bs here in Austin with package bombs I was a little cautious opening. Can I paint the booster with my left over black caliper paint I used to spray the disc hub or should I use something like engine paint? Oh also so didn’t realize the connection that was under neath the stock MC which I believe is for the passenger side brake if I’m correct idk? But seems that the 93 cobra MC doesn’t have that and I’m sure I’ve seen this on the vids I watched but what do I do with that line and i know there was a reason for that brake line adapter I bought.

 

[Noobz347]

That bike is going to have a LOT of braking power.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Holy shizzle talk about excitement after getting that last nut off last night!!

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Yeah you are gonna want to clean up that booster, scuff it up a bit and paint it. Caliper paint should be fine. As for the MC, you'll need a 3-2 port conversion kit. Unsure if you bought one yet.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/1-1993-Cobra-master-cyl-C537.aspx

 

[Reddevil91]

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Yeah you are gonna want to clean up that booster, scuff it up a bit and paint it. Caliper paint should be fine. As for the MC, you'll need a 3-2 port conversion kit. Unsure if you bought one yet.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/1-1993-Cobra-master-cyl-C537.aspx

Yeah man I picked up these two things. Do I need anything else from that list? I noticed the Mc came with two little bolt things that seem like they would be block off screws or something. What are those for?

 

[Mustang5L5]

Those are for bench bleeding the master cylinder. I find they suck, and did mine by buying two short, pre-made brake lines from Autozone and cutting them in half and bending them back up and into the MC reseviour. I'd bench bleed it that way. Look on yourtube for vids or I can try and take a pic if I can find the lines.

As for what else you'd need. The plugs to gut the prop valve, and an adjustable prop valve.

https://lmr.com/item/M2450A/Mustang-Brake-Proportioning-Valve-Plug

https://lmr.com/item/WIL-26010922/mustang-wilwood-adjustable-proportioning-valve-79-93

 

[Reddevil91]

Those are for bench bleeding the master cylinder. I find they suck, and did mine by buying two short, pre-made brake lines from Autozone and cutting them in half and bending them back up and into the MC reseviour. I'd bench bleed it that way. Look on yourtube for vids or I can try and take a pic if I can find the lines.

As for what else you'd need. The plugs to gut the prop valve, and an adjustable prop valve.

https://lmr.com/item/M2450A/Mustang-Brake-Proportioning-Valve-Plug

https://lmr.com/item/WIL-26010922/mustang-wilwood-adjustable-proportioning-valve-79-93

Awesome I didn’t know but kinda thought I might need that plug. I ended up going with FRPP valve,it should be here today I think that one is fine right ? Thought about the Wilwood, but went with this one.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Same thing. Just one is Ford marked. I'd probably spring for it as it looks cooler

 

[Shakerhood]

Those are for bench bleeding the master cylinder. I find they suck, and did mine by buying two short, pre-made brake lines from Autozone and cutting them in half and bending them back up and into the MC reseviour. I'd bench bleed it that way. Look on yourtube for vids or I can try and take a pic if I can find the lines.

As for what else you'd need. The plugs to gut the prop valve, and an adjustable prop valve.

https://lmr.com/item/M2450A/Mustang-Brake-Proportioning-Valve-Plug

https://lmr.com/item/WIL-26010922/mustang-wilwood-adjustable-proportioning-valve-79-93

I did the exact same thing.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Found the lines I used

 

[Reddevil91]

Found the lines I used

Was there a specific brake line model you used that pictured and I’m guessing you just connected them and let the fluid run through as you said back into the Mc and not pinch off the open end?

 

[Mustang5L5]

Was there a specific brake line model you used that pictured and I’m guessing you just connected them and let the fluid run through as you said back into the Mc and not pinch off the open end?

Just off the shelf premade lines. I think I got 12" lines, but one end off and just looped it back into the MC.

I forget what size threads you'll need. They are SAE. Just take the MC with you to autozone and ask for two pre-made lines about 12" long that will fit the two ports. bend them back into the reseviour (under the fluid level) and it's really easy to bench bleed the MC.

 

[Reddevil91]

Just off the shelf premade lines. I think I got 12" lines, but one end off and just looped it back into the MC.

I forget what size threads you'll need. They are SAE. Just take the MC with you to autozone and ask for two pre-made lines about 12" long that will fit the two ports. bend them back into the reseviour (under the fluid level) and it's really easy to bench bleed the MC.

Cool even though I don’t have a bench or a vise I’ll figure something out. Hey since I know you used nrc’s stuff I believe, did you upgrade to 31 splines? I asked them and I guess the rear cobra kit comes with 28 but he said I could upgrade to 31s for 75 bucks. I know I would need the trak loc but if I had to open the rear up anyways I figured it might not be all that hard of a swap out? Or is that something not to worry about. Eventually after this brake and suspension upgrade I’m back to motor project and getting the mods I wanted and power should be from what ppl guessed 4-500 hopefully.

 

[Mustang5L5]

I pieced mine together. Not using the NRC stuff. Still 28 spline. Considering I'll be driving on street tires and not launching on slicks, I dont realllt need 31

 

[Reddevil91]

Progress progress progress!! It’s a real pain but it’s getting there slowly but surely. Front rotors, calipers, and lines buttoned up and installed. Got the booster out which was a challenge since it was so stuck. Looking at this new booster and I’m trying to not doubt that it won’t fit in there. I don’t know how hard it’s gonna be to get back in but any tips will help FOR SURE!!

 

[Mustang5L5]

For my booster install, I removed the upper intake, pushed it over to passenger side, and trimmed the 4 studs down slightly. I forget how much exactly I trimmed off . Got mine in without hammering the strut tower at all

 

[Reddevil91]

For my booster install, I removed the upper intake, pushed it over to passenger side, and trimmed the 4 studs down slightly. I forget how much exactly I trimmed off . Got mine in without hammering the strut tower at all

Ahh well I do have that GT40 intake I’ve been needing to put on but I don’t want to do so until I put my heads on. Hmmmmm I’ll consider it. I wish I could just get rid of all that mess called wiring and what not in that corner. So you didn’t drill or extend those holes? Oh and you cut the studs bc they are longer posts than ours? Or for simplicity?

 

[Mustang5L5]

I did slightly slot those holes to the pass side. Very little

I trimmed down the studs a tiny bit just to give myself a bit more of an angle to get that booster on. Studs should be the same lenght as fox booster. I don't remember this much I cut though. Too much and you can't get nuts on

 

[90sickfox]

With my install i didnt slot those holes at all. Some beat the tower....others don't. Some say the 90 and up have a pinch more room.....

I think i couldve gotten the booster in without tapping the tower....but....i was frustrated as hell at the time. It took a friend to look at the studs coming through by the pedal for me to get it in. Real PITA.

He came buy after my wife called him ( her cousin ) 'cause i was bout to burn errything to the ground !!! It was the hardest thing I've done to date on a mustang.

You make it through this step without throwing tools and going into convulsions....you can conquer anything.