Progress Thread My centrifugal ppl, how’s this deal?

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Standard 99-04 Cobra pads
So this is what I got should I buy them and do the discount towards the rear kit or just get them to send me pads. I don’t want to have mismatched pads either in the fronts at least.
 
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That seems fair as long as you were planning on the rear kit any way. Now you can get decent pads and not take a chance on another set being sent that are weak like the first. I will say this, just as an fyi. When taking the pads out of the calipers take your time and kind of work your way around. I have had that happen even on the ford pads which were pretty good pads.
 
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I'd get decent pads as well. It's a fair offer but I probably wouldn't take advantage too much of his offer and buy $100 pads. The ones he supplied are probably $20-30 pads so I'd just show him the receipt and then say just cover the cost of this set of standard ac delco parts store pads or something like that
 
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Buy the new pads and get the discount
He may be looking into the defective pads and doesn't want to chance another defective set of pads going out, I wouldn't push the issue, he's compromising
 
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I'd get decent pads as well. It's a fair offer but I probably wouldn't take advantage too much of his offer and buy $100 pads. The ones he supplied are probably $20-30 pads so I'd just show him the receipt and then say just cover the cost of this set of standard ac delco parts store pads or something like that
So haven’t bought pads yet, looked into the hawks hp and the set i looked is about 125, now I don’t expect him to cover that entire cost but should I go with these or should I just get a decent set fron advance or autozone for like 75-80 bucks?
 
I actually run OEM pads on mine. Motorcraft out back and AC delco in front. For my needs car stops more than fine. I think I have $50 in the full set of pads
 
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Ok guys so things are under way, having a hard time with getting the old spindles off the old ball joint, any ideas besides just beating it with a hammer. Guess I can use the tool which I’ll be renting to press the new ones in. Also what’s the best way to undo the brake line to which I’ve circled, it’s up behind the strut. I completely forgot to support the arm when I took the bolts out from the spindle and strut, talk about an oh :poo: moment when it popped down but I had the tire there which stopped it.
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Currently at a pick and pull collecting the dust shields, got the rears out, a little rough but I’ll clean them and straighten them out. What’s the best way to get the fronts off with the rivets?
 
I used the BFH method when I did the 5-lug conversion on my old '86. I don't remember how many hits it took. However, it came off very suddenly when it separated.

Regarding the brake lines, get yourself a nice set of flare nut wrenches for the line fitting and use a combination or adjustable wrench to hold the hose side.
 
For rivets, cold shisel or drill with a cordless drill.

Air hammer can be used for removing the spindles. I changes my A-arms out to new arms, so I just unbolted the a arm and never actually removed my old spindles
 
^^^ what he said about the brake line, as for the ball joint, the BFH method works but remember to thread the nut back on a few turns before you wack the devil out of it or you'll get another surprise
I should clarify that when I say BFH method, I mean you're hitting the spindle itself (at the boss where it mounts to the ball joint), not the ball joint stud.
 
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Ha ha @karthief i figured. But I have seen ppl on YouTube just hammer the ball joints out since they are replacing them. Ok so I ended up finding a nicer and straighter set or rears, which I paid 7 bucks for those. Passed on the front due to the rivets and not having anything of which @Mustang5L5 mentioned. The yard wouldn’t help even though I offered to pay them to get them off. So either I’ll go back out and take a drill or small punch and hammer, or I’ll jist order them for eBay which I’ve seen for 45/50 obo or just get them from LMR. Where do I find these flare nut wrench’s?
 
Ha ha @karthief i figured. But I have seen ppl on YouTube just hammer the ball joints out since they are replacing them. Ok so I ended up finding a nicer and straighter set or rears, which I paid 7 bucks for those. Passed on the front due to the rivets and not having anything of which @Mustang5L5 mentioned. The yard wouldn’t help even though I offered to pay them to get them off. So either I’ll go back out and take a drill or small punch and hammer, or I’ll jist order them for eBay which I’ve seen for 45/50 obo or just get them from LMR. Where do I find these flare nut wrench’s?
Should be able to find them in the tool section of just about any auto parts store. I bought my set (KD Tools brand) from O'Reillys about thirteen years ago.
 
Cool I’ll take a look when I go rent the ball joint press. Also I saw this on another topic. Was going to order from lmr but if I order from rockauto it’s basically half. Is their something behind rockauto I don’t know. Like why are they priced so much lower and is their any issues with these two parts.
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Just to clarify, the bfh method is not striking the top of the ball joint stud, you strike the spindle at the ball joint hole, sideways, no down, kapish? (It is actually spelled capisce but most spell it kapish)
 
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Well they are off, and I rented the ball joint remover/ pusher set. Do any of you all know how to use this thing or which ones I use to push out my old ball joint, and then which set up i use to push in my new ones. Also do I need to add any grease to the 94/95 ball joint I’ll be putting in?
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Well they are off, and I rented the ball joint remover/ pusher set. Do any of you all know how to use this thing or which ones I use to push out my old ball joint, and then which set up i use to push in my new ones. Also do I need to add any grease to the 94/95 ball joint I’ll be putting in?

Just YouTube the balljoint installing tool. Its very easy, but recommend if you have one use an air compressor. Using a socket on it gets tiring quick. The biggest thing is just make sure the balljoint is going back into the control arm straight, and it will go right in.

What kind of balljoints did you buy? If they are OEM then you dont need to grease them, but if they are aftermarket then they should have included the grease fitting with it, so you can add a "little" grease to it. There is no need to pack the crap out of it.
 
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