You’re no help Lol. I’ve never been a pop the hood guy at car shows. I just hated the grime everywhere.
I do have all winter so when it’s -7° and I’m trying not to kill my self because the air hurts my skin I may just take on all those holes...
Progress Thread She’s a runner
- Thread starter KZGUNS
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You’re no help Lol. I’ve never been a pop the hood guy at car shows. I just hated the grime everywhere.
I do have all winter so when it’s -7° and I’m trying not to kill my self because the air hurts my skin I may just take on all those holes...
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Come join me in the 
that leave the holes rattle can club. It's nice here and we have cookies.
that leave the holes rattle can club. It's nice here and we have cookies.
I do like cookies....Come join me in the
Look...its a matter of knowing where to make a difference to compliment the engine's appearance.
After doing it 5 years ago, the bodywork, and paint on the exhaust side of my bay has failed from the heat. Big chunks of slathered on filler, primer, and about 6 coats of black satin urethane are giving up the ghost because of the heat on that side.
Do I care about that?
Nope,....you can't see it anyway.
Knowing what I know now, I would've never obsessed about the frame rail caps, and all of the little nit-picky cracks and crevices that needed grinding/smoothing/filling/primering/sanding, when in the end, it can't or won't be seen anyway.
That still wouldn't have deterred me from the rest though.
Take my favorite engine compartment as an example, ( cause this was about as sleazy a job as I'll ever admit to)
All of this.......is a rattle can. The holes in the strut towers are filled with JB weld stick.
Compared to the current engine compartment paint that is now failing, ( and which took me weeks to do) this one is the result of a couple of days, and a lot of slight of hand. ( you can see the frame rail is stock, but your eyes wanna stay on the contrast)
Sanding cured JBweld stick is only slightly harder than body filler, and if you press that suff in the hole and put your finger on the back side to mushroom the goop that presses through, you form a "JB weld rivet " that will not want to fall out.
Now,....take your lazy asses to Oreillys, and buy some canned paint and a couple of those 8 dollar JB weld steel sticks, and quit being such a bunch of lazy assed weiners.
After doing it 5 years ago, the bodywork, and paint on the exhaust side of my bay has failed from the heat. Big chunks of slathered on filler, primer, and about 6 coats of black satin urethane are giving up the ghost because of the heat on that side.
Do I care about that?
Nope,....you can't see it anyway.
Knowing what I know now, I would've never obsessed about the frame rail caps, and all of the little nit-picky cracks and crevices that needed grinding/smoothing/filling/primering/sanding, when in the end, it can't or won't be seen anyway.
That still wouldn't have deterred me from the rest though.
Take my favorite engine compartment as an example, ( cause this was about as sleazy a job as I'll ever admit to)
All of this.......is a rattle can. The holes in the strut towers are filled with JB weld stick.
Compared to the current engine compartment paint that is now failing, ( and which took me weeks to do) this one is the result of a couple of days, and a lot of slight of hand. ( you can see the frame rail is stock, but your eyes wanna stay on the contrast)
Sanding cured JBweld stick is only slightly harder than body filler, and if you press that suff in the hole and put your finger on the back side to mushroom the goop that presses through, you form a "JB weld rivet " that will not want to fall out.
Now,....take your lazy asses to Oreillys, and buy some canned paint and a couple of those 8 dollar JB weld steel sticks, and quit being such a bunch of lazy assed weiners.
What are you guys running
Standard volume or high volume oil pump. I generally don’t have issues with standard but not sure if the 5.0 has any shortcomings in that area.
Standard volume or high volume oil pump. I generally don’t have issues with standard but not sure if the 5.0 has any shortcomings in that area.
Steel1
Mustang Master
High volume on my 347. M-68HV. I don't know why. I've always run a high volume. Generally more oil doesn't hurt anything. I went through 2 pumps trying to clearance it for the main girdle. Have to get it just right.
Kurt
Kurt
There are certain manufacturers out there that won't warrant stuff that has a high volume pump in the mix. A high volume pump takes power to turn, and that usually equates to a lot of twisting force on the drive shaft, the distributor and cam gears.
If a standard pump will move the required oil through the engine, why put a strain on all of the other stuff that's bustin it's ass trying to jam jelly through a pin hole?
If a standard pump will move the required oil through the engine, why put a strain on all of the other stuff that's bustin it's ass trying to jam jelly through a pin hole?
I'll throw a couple things in and see it they are worth anything..
I always used to run high-volume pumps years ago, M-68HV specifically (with the ARP pump shaft). Had built a nice 302 a long time ago and used this pump. Sold the engine and the buyer just wanted the long block. So, upon removing the intake, timing cover and oil pan, noticed a small plug in the oil pan. It was one of the plugs for the oil passage that feeds the lifters (behind timing chain). This pump always put out 100 or so psi at anything above idle. Since then, it's always been standard volume pumps. Luckily, the engine had no damage and buyer was happy with the engine.
IF I were to use a high-volume oil pump again, there are a few things I would do at the least..
ARP oil pump shaft
drill and pin the oil plug in the lifter valley
thread the 1/2" oil plugs in the front of the engine
This is the very minimum I would do now that I see what a HV pump can do.
I always used to run high-volume pumps years ago, M-68HV specifically (with the ARP pump shaft). Had built a nice 302 a long time ago and used this pump. Sold the engine and the buyer just wanted the long block. So, upon removing the intake, timing cover and oil pan, noticed a small plug in the oil pan. It was one of the plugs for the oil passage that feeds the lifters (behind timing chain). This pump always put out 100 or so psi at anything above idle. Since then, it's always been standard volume pumps. Luckily, the engine had no damage and buyer was happy with the engine.
IF I were to use a high-volume oil pump again, there are a few things I would do at the least..
ARP oil pump shaft
drill and pin the oil plug in the lifter valley
thread the 1/2" oil plugs in the front of the engine
This is the very minimum I would do now that I see what a HV pump can do.
I would imagine a HV pump may not be ideal in a situation where engine bearing clearances are a bit on the tight side. As a side effect, internal pressures would rise given the higher flow rate.
Frictional losses in a situation where someone is running a supercharger with remote oil feed, or a remote oil filter mount ior a cooler can reduce pressure at the entrenched limits of oil travel, and the HV can help maintain that pressure.
Maybe you set up your engine a bit on the loose side of tolerances or you just have a worn out 200k mile shortblock and want to just send it. In that case the HV can help compensate for low oil pressure due to excessive tolerances.
In other words, HV doesn’t mean “upgrade” It’s one of those things where you take into account the situation and pick the more appropriate component for your combo
Frictional losses in a situation where someone is running a supercharger with remote oil feed, or a remote oil filter mount ior a cooler can reduce pressure at the entrenched limits of oil travel, and the HV can help maintain that pressure.
Maybe you set up your engine a bit on the loose side of tolerances or you just have a worn out 200k mile shortblock and want to just send it. In that case the HV can help compensate for low oil pressure due to excessive tolerances.
In other words, HV doesn’t mean “upgrade” It’s one of those things where you take into account the situation and pick the more appropriate component for your combo
If it was putting out over 100psi above idle, you had other problems. The M68HV puts out a little more than a stock pump, not much. I've built multiple engines with that pump, and when the engine is warmed up, it puts about 30psi out at idle, and maxes out around 60psi.
Kurt
Ordered heads from promaxx. Excellent deal at $788
Long tube headers on the way.
Other miscellaneous stuff also, mounts, ps hoses, rear upper and lower arms etc. time to make a list of what else there is to buy.
Gonna get back to sorting wires and relooming with braided loom
Long tube headers on the way.
Other miscellaneous stuff also, mounts, ps hoses, rear upper and lower arms etc. time to make a list of what else there is to buy.
Gonna get back to sorting wires and relooming with braided loom
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