Progress Thread She’s a runner

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Figured I’d get one last drive in before the weather really changed up this way. Drove to work yesterday and all good but as I parked I noticed a slight pass exhaust leak. Ehh nbd. As I left and hit the first light the leak got worse and afr pegged 19.90. Ugh oh well the VE is dialed in so nbd. By the time I got home 35min drive my car sounded like a jalopy and the collector bolts had loosened and there was a 1/2” gap and the rubber splash shield was melting. Guess it’s time to yank it and get going on the engine bay refresh.
 
Got the transmission pulled today. It was a bear since no amount of persuading would get out the drivers side bolts so out it came with the bell housing. It’s a grimy as it could be. This car was “undercoated” up north there’s a few things people do. Fluid film being the most popular. It’s basically like heavy waste oil. This will be a bitch to clean, good thing I own a car wash cause my driveway would be black if I cleaned it here. Probably get the engine out next weekend.

Original starter? I’m guessing even a motorcraft one now would be made in Mexico or elsewhere.
 

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So I’m planning on promax heads and long tube headers. New K member. Some stifflers goodies. Ow I’m not sure how ambitious I’ll be this winter but I really like the sound of 180° headers. I’d have to chop up a set of new headers. I think I can route the 4 tubes under the back of the motor. We’ll see, may be too lazy or the other work may be more than I thought.
 
Wd40 industrial degreaser works amazingly. Minimal effort, spray on and let it sit for 10 minutes then brushed then pressure washed. The grime was already melting off without the pressure washer. I did this twice then washed with a water based degreaser to neutralize whatever is in that stuff.
 

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Finally got the bolts out. One just wouldn’t budge. Hitting it with the impact didn’t budge it. I melted the head off with my plasma cutter and was able to separate from the bell. Looks like it was locked in the tranny since it came out easily with vise grips and it’s all corroded there. Where can I find these bolts?
Gonna tear this apart and inspect everything and at a minimum replace synchros.
 

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Perfect example of electrolysis. Kinda unusual for it to happen there.
there is a bolt size thread in the technical/how to threads.
 
Perfect example of electrolysis. Kinda unusual for it to happen there.
there is a bolt size thread in the technical/how to threads.

I think the issue will be that these have a 15mm head and this size bolts usually has a 17 or 19 and as tight as it is in there you wouldn’t get a socket on. I guess an Allen head would work
 
So I’m looking at coil over options and I’m readIng some differing requirements for the strut. I have nearly new or style struts on my car now. Is there an option to use those with the strange or upr kits? Some places say yes others no. What’s your guys experience?
 
The stock strut sometimes has a cap that has been riveted to the top of the cylinder that is larger in diameter than than the cylinder itself. The problem that it causes is that the coil over sleeve wont slide over it.
It has happened to me on almost every single C/O kit I've purchased. The remedy is to grind down the overhang so the sleeve will slide over.
 
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The stock strut sometimes has a cap that has been riveted to the top of the cylinder that is larger in diameter than than the cylinder itself. The problem that it causes is that the coil over sleeve wont slide over it.
It has happened to me on almost every single C/O kit I've purchased. The remedy is to grind down the overhang so the sleeve will slide over.

Thanks!! That’s easy work!
 
Not too bad of a job. Pull the k member next and start cutting out a couple rust spots in the lower towers.
 

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