To Restore or Resto-Mod 68 Fastback

Wildthing1

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Feb 26, 2008
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New member here. I just bought a 68 Fastback to rebuild.

I am agonizing over whether to restore or resto-mod(Eleanor/Shelby 500 looks) my 68 fastback.

(I know, everyone agonizes over this or what color to paint)

Thing is, I love the resto-mod approach but this would be a pretty cool car just restored. Would I be risking value not restoring it?

Here are the details:
-2 prior owners (2nd owner never drove it and immediately began dissassembly).
-True 'barn find' ... well shed really.
-The car is FULLY documented...I even have pictures dated March 1968 with the owners hand writing on the back about adding a shelby spoiler (He must've never got around to it). (and all protectoplate stuff and manuals)
- 'J-Code' 302-4 barrel, Highland Green, 3.25 axle ratio, 3-Speed Manual, GT Equip Group, AC, AM Radio, Reflective Group, Remote LH Mirror, Wheel Lip Moulding, Electric Clock.
-Aside from the second owner taking the engine, tranny, and font clip off (I have them) this car is 100% complete. The engine looks like it did in 1968 (It's just rustier and not in the car).
- VERY minor rust issue in the lip of the trunk. No other rust on the vehicle that I could find. Right side looks like he drug a highway marker or something down it and did a basic repair and cheap-o repaint.

Questions:
How much does the GT status make this car rare/more valuable?
(I get conflicting answers on this, some people say not really...others freak)
What are the Pros and Cons to restore vs restomod?

Thanks!

Oh yeah,

Here are some pics:
1968 State:
1968pics1.jpg

1968pics2.jpg


Current State:
IMAGE_004.jpg

IMAGE_007.jpg

IMAGE_006.jpg

IMAGE_010.jpg
 
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I personally like the resto-mods because you get to build the car that you'd like to drive. I figure as long as you don't make major alterations to the car (things that can't be undone, subframe connectors sure are nice though) then it's fine. I don't think a 68 fastback is going to have a problem holding its value if it's restomodded.

You should definitely keep the original drivetrain. Maybe not use it if you're going to beat on it, but for sure keep it. From what I understand a numbers matching car is worth more.
 
Thanks JIKelly


...so you're thinking is most of the value of the vehicle is wrapped up in the body with a smaller portion in having the original drivetrain. The 'GT' originality is not a major consideration.

I was thinking just to do a budget build to get it back on the road to buy a 1990's 5.0 mustang and just swap the drivetrain over, then (at some point) rebuild the original engine and put it on the shelf.

I was concerned that adding the Eleanor body kit or GT 500 body kit would possibly reduce value. From what I've read these seem to implement non-reversible changes.

I know original 302 Camaros from 1968 and 1969 are highly sought after (due to the SCCA racing, volumes produced and race-ready of the stock vehicle)...were the 302-4v fords in the same category or did Ford produce a lot more of the 302's thereby reducing value (or de-tune them so they did not get the notoriety)?
 
my .02 cents;
It depends on the seller and the market itself in terms of resale value.
If a car is completely original its always a plus, for me.

However, There is an Eleanor craze right now, you can always state that it is an original gt car. Thus, i think you can sell your car with an Eleanor kit right now to someone who is interested in one, generally, people already in the mustang community don't like the Eleanor kit.

But, I think that if you have the extra space you shouldn't do anything that cannot be undone. Whatever your replace keep the original parts. Whatever is broken throw it away.
If you're planning on keeping it for the long term (10+ years) do whatever you want to it, even add on the body kits.
As for 302 4b I don't think they're that rare (correct me if i'm wrong), GT status is a plus, but again it depends on the the seller, newer people may just go for the fastback look and not really care about the GT status;
Do what you want to do, most people who receive a practically original car have this same argument.
Things you should ask is it gonna be a garage queen? a weekend warrior? or a daily driver? If a garage queen i'd go out of the way and pay extra for NOS parts and keep it as original as possible.
Weekend Warrior, mild restore mod
and
Daily driver... you go all out restore mod it, make it as comfortable for yourself as possible.

Sorry for the long post :nice:
 
I would build the car the way it would make you happy.

With that being said and if it was my car, I would restore the car with some minor mods such as wheels and engine dress up parts. the car seems very well documented and very complete with most (if not all) of the original parts. The color is very desirable since it is the same color as the Mustang used in the Steve McQueen movie Bullet. Another thing that you have going for you is that it is very well equipped car with many options. Again, make the car how it would make you happy. Using a 5.0 out of a 80s early 90s mustang would be great to get you going but I would go for original with minor mods.
 
Nice find, and it's great you have the full history of the car.

If it was mine, I'd restore it. Mostly because you do have the history. If it had been a 10 owner car, and there was no history with it, then I'd go resto-mod big time. I just think this car would be cool to see restored, and have the pics of the original, etc. when you show it. :)

Restomod would truely be fun too, though.

Whatever you do, make sure you start a build/rebuild thread on here with lots of pics. :D
 
I'm thinking the TV news stories about Unique Performance is going to kill off the "Elanore Craze"; if it hasn't already. I know Bryan feels it's indeed become a "witch-hunt"; but I think it's mostly being done in the typical TV News fashion of hunting for ratings. Meanwhile, "the real story" is somewhere between Hasty's lawyers and NBC11.
That being said; I don't see as much call for Eleanore's as there was, say, 1-2 years ago.

I'd personally mod the car up as you wish with "removable" mods (although I'd make subframe connectors a permanent part of the chassis). Keep the block, keep the tranny, keep any decent original sheetmetal in storage; and load 'er up with all the toys and "comfort-additions" you want.

"It's your car", but you may want to sell her someday; and you will probably be looking for top dollar. If the original parts will do that ; you'll be glad you still have them!
 
Thanks

Thanks for all the input everyone!

Mustang6tee8: The guy before me took pictures of every step, and had boxes of little plastic containers full of bolts each labeled with where the parts came off. I will follow his lead.

So I guess the GT option doesn't make it that much more valuable...

I have complete conflict (Between Bullitt (Basically a resto), GT 500, Eleanor) so I will take the easy route...no decision for now. Though Bullitt is looking relatively cheaper than the others.

I guess I should focus on getting it back on the street. I just bought a 92 Mustang 5.0/ 5speed off of Craigslist ($800 and it runs and drives!!). I'll swap the drivetrain over to the 68. I figured at $800 it is a nice (disposable) drivetrain for the moment. This will give me time to rebuild the original engine then I will probably shelve it. If I ever sell the car it would be a bonus to have the original drivetrain.

While the engine is out I will clean & detail the engine bay... . . . . . . probably start taking the paint down in sections & leave the car in primer (...the problem here is stopping the tear down at some point and committing to beginning re-assembly isn't it?). Anyone have any good/recommended links for 'how to' remove paint?

I looked at soda blast but ran across a link that said there were problems prepping the metal for paint...it was difficult to get paint to stick afterwards.
Sandblast can warp. Anyone know about 'Starblast' a 3M product? Is it prone to the heat that warps sheetmetal?

Then again I read that blasting a car was an insanely excruciating process. I guess I will end up sanding it down.

Again, thanks everyone for the input. I will post pictures as I progress (It will be achingly slow due to a 5 yo and a 1yo...and a job...and a wife).
 
being a GT will add about 15-20% to the value of the car over a plain jane base model. this reminds me a lot of my next project car, a 69 cougar that's basically a survivor that just needs paint on the passenger side and reassembly, i'm also having the same dilemna right now, restore it or restomod it. i really, really want to restomod it but with the car being so original and complete and with such low miles (76,000) i don't really know if i should.

my biggest problem is the paint, it's a color called light aqua, and i'm not really a fan of that color. i want to paint it acapulco blue and add a bunch of hi-po engine, trans, suspension and interior goodies. anything i take off the car i will keep to be reinstalled later but the kicker is that the car comes with the paint to repaint it back the original color.

for your car being so close to the Bullitt car anyway (the Bullitt car was actually a GT too) i'd restore it back 100% bone stock then add the Bullitt goodies, which consist of the wheels and tires, steering wheel and blackout of some of the chrome trim pieces. that way when you go to put it back to stock you have very little work that needs to be done. there is even a company making the correct leather wrapped walnut shelby steering wheel (these were actually available over the counter from ford or shelby and Steve had it leater wrapped) now but it's expensive at over $2,000 but it is a beautiful steering wheel. also don't make the mistake that a lot of people do when building a Bullitt clone and use the curved spoke torq thrusts, the original used the straight spoke version and you can get these in the original 15x7" all the way up to 17" versions the car looks better with the straight spokes too.

i honestly would do a concours level restoration to this car and then remove whatever part you want to replace with modern stuff and put them on the shelf for later use, but that's just me and i can be kinda anal about my cars. in the end though i think you'd be much happier knowing it's done right and still have all the modern bolt on goodies you want with the original stuff ready to go at a moments notice. your car looks nice enough and complete enough that it should be realtively easy to do too. at least as far as resto's can be anyway.
 
B-Nickel, I think you are right. Financially it is better to take it to stock (ie it will cost less in the short term). (Maybe throw a few mods in (I have been reading about the upper A arm relocation trick...)). But with the Bullitt green I can transition between completely stock look and Steve McQueen Bullitt car readily. Bullitt left a distinct enough impression Ford is on it's second release of the Bullitt-mobile... Unfortunately the dark Green Bullitt car was rather drab in comparison to the Shelby's with the stripes. Did the Bullitt car actually have a metal flake paint job or was it actually the stock green?

2 G's for a steering wheel? YIKES. I thought 300 for a MoMo was rather high...do you have a link to it?
 
the Bullitt car was the original highland green but there's nothing to say you can't "spice" up the mix with a little more metallic flake. it was a metallic color BTW, but not what you'd call a metal flake in the traditional sense, it has very small metallic flakes and not larger ones like you'd find in a traditional metal flake paint job.

the wheel is absolutely gorgeous and it's hand made in Switzeralnd. here is an article where mustang monthly installed it


http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/mump_0711_reproduction_shelby_steering_wheel/index.html

there is a ton of good info about the Bullitt car here

http://www.ponysite.de/bullitthowto.htm
 
What a great car to start with. If I would resto-mod, I would do it subtle, like bnickle says.

A J code GT is more valuable. If it were mine, I would run a 331 in there, but make it look as stock as possible under the hood. Put modern suspension components and run a 5-speed.

Keep with the Bullitt theme. It is tested, tried and true to Mustangs, much more so than the faddish E-cars. The Bullitt will last as long as there are classic Mustangs, whereas the E themed cars will take on the outdated look in years to come.
 
Rebuild with keeping originality (But some reversible modifications). Bullitt-esque it is.

Removed the panel beneath the battery this weekend (it was toast, got a replacement panel with the car). I have one to replace it with but the frame is all rusted.

Bought a media blaster to blast it with. If the frame is too pitted I will cut and replace as necessary. I will need the media blaster on the doors, the crinkle on the inside is surface rusted.
 
Whoa there, do not media blast the crinkle on the door. DO NOT RUIN IT!

Hmmm. I was told by one of my Mustang friends that the best way to clean surface rust off the metal on the top, inside of the doors was to blast it with Walnut shells. Per this source the crinkle cannot be sanded because that would remove the crinkle (By crinkle I mean the metal that has raised areas on the inside of the car door).

What methods are there to clean this area on the doors when there is slight surface rust?

Any media's recommended for blasting the body?
 
I know everyone on the net has an opinion but this guy sounded pretty compelling. He was definitely not a fan of Soda Blasting.

Why not to soda blast:
http://spi.forumup.org/viewtopic.php?t=156&highlight=soda&mforum=spi

I saw 'Starblast' (3M) recommended:
'it is a 3m product. it is a very fine composite with less than 5% quartz. it leaves a fine anchor pattern and gets into the smallest pits. i pay 6.50 /50 lb bag but i buy a lot. it's worth it though. you can recylcle it a few times before it gets dusty. look for a composite supplier in your area and you'll get a better deal. thru a jobber it will be 10 + a bag.'
I Spoke with Tim 1/12/2008 at www.canfieldjoseph.com (Fort Worth Division).
Starblast is what they sell to folks for vehicle stripping.
50lb bag is $11.78 for one. Uses a regular sand blaster.

One guy said there was a problem with Walnut shells ($1/lb @ Harbor Freight) and trace amount of oil residue... (Wipedown afterward with Varsol?)

Also need Safety Equipment and (at a $1/LB) creative ways to recycle the shells/glass beads/whatever.


Kind of overwhelming...I really have no idea...


I figure the best I can do is get some Starblast and some walnut shells and play around with it until I figure it out then make the determination on where I should use it...

ON the subject of safety equipment : Everyone talks about how dangerous it is to sandblast because of the breathable air...no one ever talks about the possibility of blasting with Scuba tanks on. What am I missing here other than tanks are a little heavy? (There will be NO witnesses of me with my Scuba tanks on and a clean room suit trying to blast my car...)