Tool Review Time

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
6,599
864
194
NJ
Mike,
If you like those, you would love the ideal carbide hole saw kit.
As an electrical contractor, I have a tons of knockout kits, but once I switched to carbide hole saws from ideal, I never touched a knockout kit again.
They are so sharp you can cut the entire hole saw hole before a unibit (stepped bit to some) makes the pilot hole for a knockout.

https://www.emisupply.com/catalog/ideal-36311-carbide-tipped-hole-cutter-3piece-p-40866.html?utm_source=googprod&utm_medium=product_search&utm_campaign=google-product-search-us-en&utm_term=IDL-36-311#.W6_aAkxFw2w

You can find them in various kits and prices, I have 1/2-3 inch (I used the link just as a sample).
Just remember, they come based on electrician sizes (which that knockout kit you listed probably does too).
Doesn't mean they won't have the size you need, just means some kits list them for the size of the fittings, not the actual size.
 
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Rcdgl

Member
Feb 19, 2018
87
18
18
67
Yep, got the Motive tool several years ago now. It took the motive, a mity vac and a neighbor to get the brakes bled on my cruiser several years ago.

Highly recommended. Much better to buy it than try to rig up a substitute.
 

Rcdgl

Member
Feb 19, 2018
87
18
18
67
Yep, got the Motive tool several years ago. Works great and well worth the price. Made bleeding after a complete brake change much easier.
 

Vettn71

Advanced Member
Jan 3, 2014
286
157
74
67
Just got to this. Which Motive did you get? There’s a dozen of them. I’ve got a 96 Mustang and it has a three-tab cap

TIA

Jim
 

Mustang5L5

This is a big reason why I pulled it out
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
31,505
7,768
224
Massachusetts
I'm actually not a fan of the motive tool. Works ok for a basic brake bleed, but not if you replace a caliper. I had issues getting air out.

Best method I've used? Crack the bleeder, go pump the pedal a few times, add fluid and repeat. Close bleeder whendone. I've done this on multiple cars with great success.

My motive bleeder kit is gathering dust
 

Mustang5L5

This is a big reason why I pulled it out
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
31,505
7,768
224
Massachusetts
I don't know what it is with me and wheel bearings but every car I've owned seems to eat then.

Bearing #2 on the DD. Used the HUb shocker and it came off on the 2nd hit. Less than 1hr start to finish. I love this tool



IMG_0078.JPG
IMG_0079.JPG
IMG_0081.JPG
 
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Vettn71

Advanced Member
Jan 3, 2014
286
157
74
67
LOL! It looks good for getting air out of the master cylinder. We’re just completing a ModFox for my son (84 coupe with 96 wiring and running gear).
Any good on that? It’s got ABS.

Jim
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
6,599
864
194
NJ
I'm actually not a fan of the motive tool. Works ok for a basic brake bleed, but not if you replace a caliper. I had issues getting air out.

Best method I've used? Crack the bleeder, go pump the pedal a few times, add fluid and repeat. Close bleeder whendone. I've done this on multiple cars with great success.

My motive bleeder kit is gathering dust
In the past, I've cracked the bleeder partially, went and ate lunch, came back and closed it, all done...
With that said, I have not used that method on my mustang.

Never seen or even heard of that bearing tool.
You just smack it on the top and basically tear the bearing out?
 

Mustang5L5

This is a big reason why I pulled it out
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
31,505
7,768
224
Massachusetts
Never seen or even heard of that bearing tool.
You just smack it on the top and basically tear the bearing out?
Yeah, although less tearing and more one big shock to break the bond as these bearings usually seize into the knuckle up here in the salt belt.

Before I'd spend hours with slide hammers and heat and other tricks. I've resorted to removing the entire knuckle before and pressing them out.

With this tool, bolt it on and give it a few god hits and it breaks the corrosion holding it in place. Couple light taps in the bearing around the outside works it out.

I think I spent all of 5 mins getting the bearing out. Entire job took less than 1hr
 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
10 Year Member
Feb 3, 2009
1,777
1,036
164
Wichita Falls, TX
I would just hammer the bearing from behind when I dealt with bearings like that. I had to change a few when I was stationed in Germany. Almost all of Europe is a rust belt.
 

Mustang5L5

This is a big reason why I pulled it out
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
31,505
7,768
224
Massachusetts
Air Hammer FTW lol
Have one. Doesn't have the mustardz

I need to buy that rivet hammer that the guy from South Main Auto YouTube channel uses

I would just hammer the bearing from behind when I dealt with bearings like that. I had to change a few when I was stationed in Germany. Almost all of Europe is a rust belt.
I've done them that way too by backing the bolts out and hitting the bolts: however, how much room you have to swing can vary. I used to have to pull the knuckle off to do this especially if there was a CV axle.

I've done maybe a dozen wheel bearings so far. I've tried all the methods and this thing is the fastest by far.
 

RangerJoe

I leave the horn on while driving
5 Year Member
Apr 26, 2010
2,666
1,232
174
Georgia
Alright, my new tool and the only tool I have ever bought off a tool truck. Behold, the new titanium bodied Matco 1/2" impact rated at 1400lbs of torque. Supposed to do the work of a larger 3/4" impact.
20181004_162715.jpg


And I also recently upgraded all my air fittings to true 3/8" high flow fittings. What a difference!
20181004_081204.jpg
 
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jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
SN Certified Technician
Mar 10, 2000
27,120
2,647
224
73
Dublin GA
Alright, my new tool and the only tool I have ever bought off a tool truck. Behold, the new titanium bodied Matco 1/2" impact rated at 1400lbs of torque. Supposed to do the work of a larger 3/4" impact.
20181004_162715.jpg


And I also recently upgraded all my air fittings to true 3/8" high flow fittings. What a difference!
20181004_081204.jpg
Are you prepared for what to do next after you shear the first rusted in bolt in something large, heavy and expensive?
 
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GroverDill

GoldMember
Founding Member
Aug 18, 1999
5,376
1,386
214
48
Rathdrum ID 83858
Have one. Doesn't have the mustardz

I need to buy that rivet hammer that the guy from South Main Auto YouTube channel uses



I've done them that way too by backing the bolts out and hitting the bolts: however, how much room you have to swing can vary. I used to have to pull the knuckle off to do this especially if there was a CV axle.

I've done maybe a dozen wheel bearings so far. I've tried all the methods and this thing is the fastest by far.
pyVaXjj.jpg
 
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Mustang5L5

This is a big reason why I pulled it out
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
31,505
7,768
224
Massachusetts
Been wanting a stubby impact for some time. Keep seeing this one on YouTube so i picked one up. Paid around $125 for the impact and stubby sockets.

450 ft-lbs, so not the most powerful thing but fits into tons of tight places

IMG_2701.JPG
IMG_2699.JPG
 

74stang2togo

NERD!
Mod Dude
Mar 7, 2002
6,407
2,291
224
Been wanting a stubby impact for some time. Keep seeing this one on YouTube so i picked one up. Paid around $125 for the impact and stubby sockets.

450 ft-lbs, so not the most powerful thing but fits into tons of tight places

IMG_2701.JPG
IMG_2699.JPG
I have the 3/8 drive version of those sockets. They are amazing.