Transmission/clutch Engagement Problem

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by GunMasterFlex, May 19, 2017.

  1. Alright so I have a pretty crazy problem that I or anyone else I try to explain it to can't figure out, now before I go on I already plan on getting a used trans, and replacing the clutch, flywheel, etc. I'm trying to narrow it down before i pull the trans.

    So whenever I start driving and the motors not up to operating temp i can shift/go into reverse and it's fairly smooth, now after about 15- 20 minutes of driving the shifting begins to get very notchy, and gets worse as I drive to the point where it almost takes 2 hands to put it in first. But it gets worse...when I put it in reverse after that amount of driving I have to use 2 hands, and the drivetrain clunks as if the rear end is going to fall out (I understand forcing it does damage to the clutch and transmission components alike). Also when I'm at a light I notice with the clutch pushed in and in first gear the car lurches foward slowly as if the clutch isnt fully disengaged. It also rattles excessively when coming off of 1st. But keep in mind it does none of this when everything's cold.

    This is a 97 mustang gt, the only drivetrain mods I have are 4.10 gears, alum driveshaft, and the previous owner replaced the clutch with a ram stage 1, and didn't replace the throw out, and assuming the flywheel wasn't replaced either.

    I have a few ideas of what it might be but it seems nobody has experienced this before. Any input you guys have is highly appreciated this has been irritating me for awhile
    Saberstang likes this.
  2. I think we need to move this to the tech section
    GunMasterFlex likes this.
  3. I had a similar issue to you back on my 1995 GT minus the lurching forward while stopped in first gear. My issue started right after I had a shop change my clutch, flywheel, throwout bearing/retainer, and pilot bearing. What happened to me was that when they changed the throwout bearing retainer, they either didn't see the shims inside or didn't think they were necessary to switch over. This in turn caused excessive endplay in the input shaft. You could always drain the transmission oil and see what you find in it. When I checked mine, I had some chunks of metal along with finely ground pieces as well. Rebuilt the transmission myself following youtube and it was as good as new. As for the moving in first gear, could it be possible that clutch engagement/disengagement is a little off due to not having an adjustable clutch cable with the aftermarket clutch or possibly the stock cable is stretched a bit too much?
    GunMasterFlex likes this.
  4. Are the gears grinding when you have to force it into gear?
    GunMasterFlex likes this.
  5. I was thinking it could be the stretched clutch cable too, also the tob is squeling pretty noticeable so I have a feeling it's contributing to it, when it began doing it awhile back I ended up changing an o2 sensor, while I was under there I figured I'd change the fluid, I didn't notice any debris in the fluid but it wasn't doing it as bad at the time as it is now either, it had royal purple atf in it, I ended up putting some castrol mercon 5 in to fill it since that's all advanced had at the time, wonder if the fluid has anything to do with it
  6. No only when I accelerate hard from 1st to second, but I think that's just the syncro on it's way out
  7. I had the same problems with my 1996 Ford Mustang GT as the last owner did not have a clue about this car. My T-45 transmission would grind in 2nd and 3rd gear and when I took it out and inspected it the synchronizors in 2nd,3rd,and also 4th gear were faulty and worn out.Instead of rebuilding my T-45 I purchased a new T-45. My car would actually lurch toward if I did not fully disengage the clutch because my Ford OEM clutch cable was old,over stretched,and the clutch was not aligned properly. I had to install a new clutch set up since the clutch pressure plate and clutch disc was showing major signs of wear. I highly recommend the Centerforce Dual Friction clutch and Centerforce steel flywheel it was the best aftermarket clutch I ever used on my car that lasted the longest. As for clutch cables to Ford OEM clutch cables are the best quality and the strongest. You need to look into getting a aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster with matching clutch cable. I have been using the Steeda quadrant and firewall adjuster and clutch cable. It has worked well for me over the years. You always install a new throw out bearing and pilot bearing every time you install a new clutch on your car as you will find it not much fun to have to replace them after you alright installed your new clutch. A new clutch cable should be installed every time you install a new clutch or if it is over stretched or very old. I had the driveline clunking problem with my car too. It turned out my u joint on my FRPP aluminum driveshaft was worn out and faulty. Instead of installing a new u joint on my FRPP aluminum driveshaft I just purchased a new FRPP aluminum driveshaft instead. The u joint on the FRPP aluminum driveshafts seem not to last that long for me depending on how you use your car. Also this would be a great time to install a new aftermarket shifter as the stock shifter can possibly cause you to damage your transmission. You are using the wrong transmission fluid in your T-45. I talked to Tremec and they said that Ford Motorcraft Mercon V is the correct transmission fluid to use in your T-45 transmission and the fluid capacity is three and half quarts so purchase four quarts of Ford Motorcraft Mercon V transmission fluid.
    #7 Saberstang, May 19, 2017
    Last edited: May 19, 2017
    GunMasterFlex likes this.
  8. Appreciate the info, I needed the reassurance that it was all those things, and not something I was overlooking. I plan on pulling the trans and replacing everything within the next few weeks so I'll give you guys an update on the finished product.