Trick-flow top end install

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by ndmus88gteng, Dec 9, 2010.

  1. Hi Guys I'm Rick, I have been reading, lurking,lol. to my question

    I have a trick-flow street top end kit, I want to install. a while after it's up an running, I will take it to get dyno tuned, to get the max out of it.

    the car is an 88 GT, with a 91 stock eng, with 70,000 miles, only mods are k&n filter in the fac box, snorkel taken out, BBK 75mm t.b, I upgraded to mas, with an A9L eec, a 94/95 70mm maf with stock elec. I just put in a new kc clutch, alum driveshaft, Tokico shock/struts all around, and 1 3/4" BBK long tubes, an BBK off-road h-pipe, and ss magnaflow mufflers with dumps.

    a lot of people tell me, I have to have the car tuned, but I've got a 76mm C&L maf, would need to get a 24# tube, its currently for 36/38#, and I have some real nice, new 4 pintle 24# inj, have been flowed, come in a bag with a lil lub. very nice oh , and I have an 255lph intank pump for it also not in yet

    will this work, will the car run right, I'll get a REAL TUNE ONE DAY, BUT IT MAY TAKE 6 MNTHS OR A YR, oops, and I dont want it sitting that long , I wanna drive it,

    Thank you for your time, any help would be Thanked Rick
  2. First things first, put that 255 lph fuel pump and get it over with. You shouldnt "need" a tune but it would help! If I were you id ditch the C&L meter,there junk..Ive had one I know. Once you go beyond 24 lb injectors, the meter is worthless. You cant just keep putting different tubes in, i dont care what they say that isnt calibrating a meter, all thats doing is lying the PCM about airflow. Id recommened a PMAS mass air meter for 24 lbs injectors.
  3. I agree, sell the c&l meter and find a PMASS or get the new abaco dbx meter. is your car equipped with cruise control? If it is, then the maf conversion will be fine. If not, you should add a vss sensor to the tranny. Without this, most people have either a hanging idle or stalling issues when coming to a stop. A factory maf eec uses the vss signal for driveability. It isn't necessary to run, but IS recommended.
  4. Trick-Flow STREET TOP END KIT install

    Hi, not made too much progress lately, the Holidays an all. thanxs for your replys,

    Yes I've been looking around , for a good used, pmass, pro-m,or Abco dbx meter, cal for 24#. I've got a nice set of 24's injectors.

    still need a few more details ironed out, before I start the build. just a couple, not all of them here, now, I did away with the smog stuff, heat cross over tube an all. used my thermactor plugs out of my kit,

    figure out what t.b egr spacer/delete I need, new stud kit for T.B., and clearance to valve covers?? never did this, so no idea.

    do I need a 3/8", or can I use a 1" spacer, tween the upper/lower, will this fit, under stock hood??, some say NOT, without cutting bracing on stock hood, Dont sound good.wont do that , or will I have enough room, roller rockers, TF v.c's, for the t.b set up??

    and the front end set-up. thank you guys for your input, It'll take a minute, but we'll get her there. will not start build till spring, would love to have most all figured out, and bought up, ready to go, Thanxs Rick
  5. ALL "calibrated" meters are lying to the computer, whether it is a C&L, Pro M, PMAS, etc. The only way NOT to lie is to use the actual transfer function via a chip. I will agree sometimes the C&L can have issues but with 24lbers I've never had an issue. I'd try the C&L and use those 24lbers if it runs like crap try something else. But my friend used the newer style 24lbers along with a C&L 76mm MAF on his 94 GT and it ran quite strong. Another one used the 73mm on his 94 GT with h/c/i and ran [email protected] na.
  6. C&L meter

    well thank you, so your saying use it , that would be my cheapest, method. I would only need a new 24# tube, to change out with my 36/38 #er.

    I think I'll give it a try, and if it won't run right, we'll go from there.

    any thoughts for the, t.b clearance , to the v.c's. , like what thickness egr/delete 75 mm plate would work best. I've learned the egr plate, has the throttle cable mounting points on it.

    and what kind of spacer, is best for the stock hood clearance, tween the upper/lower, and to clear the v.c's.

    Thank you guys Rick
  7. I've used a 3/8 phonelic spacer and the throttle cable bracket cleared those same covers before. With deleting EGR spacer, that may give you more room since TB will be closer to upper plenum. If you dont have cruise, you can cut some of the throttle cable bracket at the bottom for a bit more clearance. Make sure you get an EGR delete plate that has the mounting 'ears' for the cable. Hood clearance wasn'ta huge problem for me, but I did remove the air tube on top of the TB, & tapped it for a 90* fitting that was lower profile. I think the hood barely touched the driver side of plenum in the end. This was with stiff, high sitting, poly ES mounts...later went to vert mounts but not for hood clearance.
  8. Stage 2 cam

    Fobrar, thanxs for your reply, yes it's got cruise, I think I'm going to go with a thin t.b. spacer, the 3/8" , or is it 1/2" the most common size, which ever.
    the real thick ones get exp.

    on the upper/lower, I found a really good deal on a 1" phenolic spacer, gaskets,bolts, an all. its real clean, I can re-sell if its too tall, I'm going to be looking for a 3/8" as well, just to have it all together come time to build.

    I came up with a new idea. could I run either a stage 2 cam, with my 1.6 roller rockers, or could I run 1.7 roller rockers, with my stage 1 cam, I know I'll need to check piston to valve clear. and re-check pushrod length, 6.7 came with the kit. has anyone done this? would it be worth it? :shrug:

    Thanxs Rick