Trickflow H/C/I vs. AFR setup

King Cobra 22

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Feb 29, 2004
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Last week I ordered the Trickflow H/C/I kit.

Before ordering I had a good talk with the guy at the performance shop and he recomended instead of getting the trickflow H/C/I that I should go with
AFR 165 heads,custom grind cam and a Holley systemax 2 intake with long tube headers.He told me I would make alot more power and torque.
I decided to go the more affordable route and stick with the trickflow kit.
Now I'm kind of wondering If I made a mistake. Can someone tell me how much better as far as more hp and tq that setup would make over the trickflow kit with shorty headers.Would it be that much of a difference?

My goal is to hit 300rwhp all motor but something is telling me that I'll probably hit something in the 280's due to being an auto.I hope not though.Here is the list of mods...

1994 GT AODE: TrickFlow Twisted Wedge heads, Trickflow Street Intake, TFS stage 1 Cam, TFS 1.6 RR, BBK shorty headers, O/R H pipe, magnaflow magnapack catback, 70mm TB, 75mm MAF, 24lb injectors,190lph, pulleys, MAC CAI, 4:10 gears, rebuilt AODE with shift kit and 2000-2200 stall converter, Chip, NX WET KIT!

With those mods do you think I will hit 300rwhp.
Don't forget I'm talking all motor without the nitrous.
 
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I do not think you will hit 300rwhp with the AODE, at least not with your combo. I think you'd need a high winding setup that would make 325+rwhp in a stick car to see 300 with an AODE. The setup your buddy mentioned could have possibly fit that bill depending on what you decided to do with the cam.
 
I agree with Paul. I thought that the TFS kit with some bolt-ons would make 300 at the wheels on an auto, but I was reading a thread the other day on Corral that everybody was saying no. Longtubes would help you get there, but the general consensus was that it just wouldn't happen with the auto at all. I'm guessing you're about right, 280's or so I think. But...... that will still be an animal on the street. The cam still has plenty of low end, and it pulls hard all the way to 6000 rpm. Those 4.10's are just right IMHO for the TFS kit. FWIW, 99% of the time, any custom cam is outperform an off the shelf one (IMHO), but as far as the AFR vs. TFS thing goes, well, I say they both are gonna perform about the same on the street. The AFR tends to favor the exhaust side a little more, while the TFS favors the intake a little more. Either way, it should be a sweet ride.
 
How would that setup compare to an LS1. I am hoping to be faster if not just as fast as a stock LS1 all motor.
If I dyno in the 280's and a stock LS1 dynos around 300rwhp then I'm guessing I wouldn't be as fast all motor because I would be out powered and out torqued.
What do you think?
 
You'll be lighter than them, and as long as you can hook up, with those 4.10's you should really pull them in the 1/8 mile. Past 80 though I think it would be close, with the advantage going to the LS1, but what the hell do I know?

FWIW, I raced a Z28 LS1 a month ago. I had a major exhaust leak (EGR bung was open, cap had fallen off) and my tune was all messed up. We started at 45mph, and stupid me left it in 3rd, and I still beat him up to 100mph, where he started catching up. So the potential to beat them is definitely there. If I had started in 2nd where I should have been, I would have killed him right at first.

Oh yea, I also raped an 05 GT (5 car lengths or so), and a modded SRT4 (it was bad......).
 
No, you aren't hitting 300rwhp. Who cares what it dyno's?? Take it to the track and see what you can pull off. You'll probably take ls1's from a stop but from a punch on the highway, they'll walk all over you unless you flip the n2o switch.
 
I don't have a 1/4 track around my area just an 1/8 and when I'm on the street I usually don't street race but If I have an open road with no cars around I'll usually race up to like 80 or so.Nothing to high.

I mainly just want a fast street car that can hold it's own on the road.
At the track I care more on running good times rather then beating the guy next to me.

In the 1/8 mile or a roll race up to like 80-90mph I would like to be able to beat cars like ls1's,new gt's,srt-4's etc..
 
CManT1914 said:
  1. LS1s - Get a good launch, and yep
  2. 05 GT's - this one will be tricky, they hook good even stock
  3. SRT4's - Absolutely, they are dogs off the line

At the track I'll be using the nitrous so...I shouldn't be too concerned.

How about a 20-40mph punch to like 90mph?
 
King Cobra 22 said:
At the track I'll be using the nitrous so...I shouldn't be too concerned.

How about a 20-40mph punch to like 90mph?

From a roll, this will make the GT's much easier, the LS1's a little harder, and the SRT4's a lot harder, but you'll still be able to beat the SRT4 unless it's got the boost turned up or something.
 
CManT1914 said:
  1. LS1s - Get a good launch, and yep
  2. 05 GT's - this one will be tricky, they hook good even stock
  3. SRT4's - Absolutely, they are dogs off the line

#2 could be true at the track but consider a different situation with the 05 and what might happen on the street.

If you ran one from a punch where both of you had to climb through your low end ..........................

Be looking in your rear mirror for him to open his door and step out to see what went wrong with his car :rlaugh:

Grady
 
King

You can make good power with either head :banana:

You can make the power of a turd with either head as well :nonono:

Got to have all the rest of the combo work well with your choice of heads or its ......................... turd city :(

Yes, the auto will hold you back a bit on dyno HP.

Put a shift kit and tc in the old slush box and you'll be surprised :eek:

Grady
 
final5-0 said:
If you ran one from a punch where both of you had to climb through your low end ..........................

Be looking in your rear mirror for him to open his door and step out to see what went wrong with his car :rlaugh:

Grady

So I should be able to beat a new GT from a roll...Good.
Will a stock srt-4 give me trouble?
I hear they are pretty quick from a roll at like 40mph.
 
final5-0 said:
King

You can make good power with either head :banana:

You can make the power of a turd with either head as well :nonono:

Got to have all the rest of the combo work well with your choice of heads or its ......................... turd city :(

Yes, the auto will hold you back a bit on dyno HP.

Put a shift kit and tc in the old slush box and you'll be surprised :eek:

Grady

I already have a shift kit and a 2000-2200 stall converter (nothing too high but it's better then stock)

Wouldn't the chip/tune have any effect on my Hp.If I hit lets say 280rwhp wouldn't the chip/tune get me in something like the 290's?
I was told by the guy at the performance shop that a chip/tune will give me more power/torque.The quetion is how much?

Also with the chip cant you adjust the shift firmness?
I have a shift kit and it shift pretty hard.With a chip can I make it shift even faster/harder?
 
King Cobra 22 said:
So I should be able to beat a new GT from a roll...Good.
Will a stock srt-4 give me trouble?
I hear they are pretty quick from a roll at like 40mph.

If both of you are low in the revs and punch it ...................

You'll shame him to the point of being red faced :rlaugh:

Don't even know what a srt-4 is!

Maybe some kind of spy plane :shrug:

Grady
 
King Cobra 22 said:
I already have a shift kit and a 2000-2200 stall converter (nothing too high but it's better then stock)

Wouldn't the chip/tune have any effect on my Hp.If I hit lets say 280rwhp wouldn't the chip/tune get me in something like the 290's?
I was told by the guy at the performance shop that a chip/tune will give me more power/torque.The quetion is how much?

Also with the chip cant you adjust the shift firmness?
I have a shift kit and it shift pretty hard.With a chip can I make it shift even faster/harder?

Sorry about missing your trans mods in your sig King ... been a long day!

Sure ... a tune is always helpful!

Yes ... a tune can help the auto shift more crisp like!

If you are concerned about what numbers you may put up at the dyno ......

The h/c/i of your choice is quite popular so all you gotta do is search out all combos that use that kit and compare the data.

I would like to know what you find from your research :banana:

Grady
 
88GT460 said:
Personally, I dont think he has a chance against an LS1 after they get going. I am sure many of you have driven the LS1 cars. The top end of those engines are top notch. It is very very surprising.

You bring up a good point here that is for sure :banana:

When using our smaller cubic inch motors to do battle with the larger Chevy motor, you gotta go with your strength which is low end before he can start to use his strength, which is horse power from his larger motor.

That can be done on the street cause a lot of times that is how those conditions occur.

At the track ...... it can be a different story :bang:

Grady
 
I have driven a 00 Z28 auto and wasn't that impressed.I went full throttle from like 0-60 and another from 40-70mph and it didn't fell like it had much pull.The speedometer definetly moved though.
So to me it didn't feel fast but the way the speedometer moved it was moving pretty fast.

I know this won't make sense but I have also driven an 03 Mach 1 auto and that thing felt like it had alot more pull low end then the LS1 Z28.

Maybe something was wrong with the Z28 but I doubt it... It was a 00 and had low miles on it.

As far as me vs. an LS1.If I ever had to race run on the street it would end up being a roll race anywhere from 25-45mph to 70-90mph.I rarely drive on the HWY so I won't have to worry about that and it's hard to line up from a stop against a worthy opponet if you know what I mean.

So I should be outpowered by what 10-30 HP?
How about TQ.How much more TQ would an LS1 have over me?