trickflow trickery?
- Thread starter motocrossed733
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Mine has the same problem.
At start up i have to keep the gas on until it warms up
after 3-5 minutes it ok but still not running smooth .
I also install 24 pound injectors with a c&l mass meter with the right tube in it
and had the car tuned with a sct chip and still it has to be given the gas to keep it started
i was thinking to switch the injectors to 42 pound and a pro-m mass air meter to see if thats the problem
also have the 190phr pump in the tank and i also did the ford code reader it came out with code #21,24 ,29 ,32
not to sure if they are causing the problem
any help would be great
thanks stumped
At start up i have to keep the gas on until it warms up
after 3-5 minutes it ok but still not running smooth .
I also install 24 pound injectors with a c&l mass meter with the right tube in it
and had the car tuned with a sct chip and still it has to be given the gas to keep it started
i was thinking to switch the injectors to 42 pound and a pro-m mass air meter to see if thats the problem
also have the 190phr pump in the tank and i also did the ford code reader it came out with code #21,24 ,29 ,32
not to sure if they are causing the problem
any help would be great
thanks stumped
Black1987Stang
Active Member
There's no way you're going to need to upgrade up to bigger injectors.....if you are running the 24's at it's limit it would be at a high rpm....not at idle, so upgrading up to 42's will do nothing, besides maybe having a crappier fuel spray because they would only open for a split second compared to 24's that would stay open longer and have a better fuel atomization.
For the original poster.....put in the original injectors or get a 24lb maf calibrated for the injectors, you cant mix and match. I've run my car with a tune for 19lbers with 24lb injectors in and vice verse (didn't know how to use my Tweecer properly at the time lol) and it ran like dirt. Fix that issue and go from there
I just installed the 75mm summitt brand MAF calibrated for the 24 lb. I am still having some driveability issues, although it is definitely not running as rich as it was, I can not seem to get this timed just right, and it is late Ill write when I can try tomorrow with perhaps a iming light.
Borrow or buy a timing light, and set the timing to about 14 to start.
Do you have an adjustable Fuel pressure regulator and gauge? If not, get them.
Get the gauge you mount on the rail, it's pretty cheap, and allows you to see the pressure while you are working under the hood.
I know you must be in aww that i want you to spend more money, it's just that these parts are more like required than optional when doing a hci swap.
Do you have an adjustable Fuel pressure regulator and gauge? If not, get them.
Get the gauge you mount on the rail, it's pretty cheap, and allows you to see the pressure while you are working under the hood.
I know you must be in aww that i want you to spend more money, it's just that these parts are more like required than optional when doing a hci swap.
I have the F-303 Cam and windsor junior heads. My car did not like to idle either. I installed a wide band and check my air/fuel ratio. At an idle I was at 20 (should be around 14.7) and some times more. I had a Holley adjustable fuel regulator that was garbage and I scrapped it for the Aeromotive. I checked and double checked all of my other settings. My TPS was set perfect (1.0) and my fuel pressure was perfect, but I could never get the damn thing to get below 19.0 fuel pressure. I brought it to Wild Pony Motorsports and had a custom tune burned for me. They were able to play with the MAF curve and adjust everything. A tuner should data log the car and make adjustments throughout the entire RPM range and squeeze every last drop that the motor has to handle, and believe it or not even improve your fuel economy. Car idles perfect now and I was able to add even more timing (a lot more) and thus more power. Before at an idle, my car would survive not run. It would bounce all over the place and often go well below 500 rpm's. I would have to give it fuel and get the RPM's up just to keep it alive. Now is purrrrrs. Unfortunately, the MAF's can only go so far as adjusting for the 24 lb injectors. Sometimes they work and sometimes they don't. Also, are you certain that all of the vacuum lines are connected properly? I have seen the air pump lines get switched around and make the car go all crazy too. Okay, I hope that some of this helps. Let me know if you need anything.
Thanks for the info, I got to drive it last night, still only idles when it wants to and hiccups when given more than quarter throttle, I am on the same page as claytucc I should get an adjustable fuel reg., isn't the stock permanent in the fuel rail? My car is an 88 with no maf originally, I added ford motorsport, harness and maf, If I plug the vac. line from manifold, to my MAP sensor car will idle, but I know I was supposed to abandon this line? I am close and had a small taste of the power, prob only 50% since it is running rough and I was only trying to seat the rings Thanks again for everybodies help, I dont have any gear head friends anymore, side affect of getting older I guess, I will update tonight, any body live near Oregon?
The fuel pressure regulator is bolted in the back of the rail.
The shrader valve on the fuel line leading to the rail is where the gauge goes.
I second the use of the aeromotive.
Don't even consider getting a chip until the car runs right. If a chip fixes your problem, it's only a bandaid. Your combo is by no means hardcore, people get cars much wilder to run right with no chip.
The shrader valve on the fuel line leading to the rail is where the gauge goes.
I second the use of the aeromotive.
Don't even consider getting a chip until the car runs right. If a chip fixes your problem, it's only a bandaid. Your combo is by no means hardcore, people get cars much wilder to run right with no chip.
Black1987Stang
Active Member
an adjustable fuel pressure regulator isn't going to do anything under wide open throttle....the only thing it "tunes" is the air/fuel mixture at WOT.
If you turn up the fuel pressure the computer sees a richer mixture and it shortens the pulsewidth (duty cycle) of the injector.
You turn down the fuel pressure and the computer is going to raise the injector pulsewidth..
No matter what you do with the fuel pressure it adjusts the pulsewidths to keep the air/fuel mixture at the 14.7:1 sweet spot.....thats what its "supposed to do" anyway if everything is working properly like the o2 sensors.
So if your problem is happening at idle, part-throttle, cruising whatever then an afpr isn't going to do anything.....hate to see people throwing money away aimlessly
You do need to verify your timing with a timing light tho...(even though I didn't with my new motor and ran it for like a year cuz the balancer I used had spun 30 degrees and was giving me whack readings and i didnt no why, my fault I didn't check true tdc)
Did you pull yours codes I forget?
Try disconnecting the ECT sensor and see what happens...Engine Coolant Temp sensor on the passenger side black metal lines going to the heater core....It has ALOT to do with how much the computer calculates the air/fuel mixture....Same with the ACT...Air charge temp sensor on the #5 intake runner
If you turn up the fuel pressure the computer sees a richer mixture and it shortens the pulsewidth (duty cycle) of the injector.
You turn down the fuel pressure and the computer is going to raise the injector pulsewidth..
No matter what you do with the fuel pressure it adjusts the pulsewidths to keep the air/fuel mixture at the 14.7:1 sweet spot.....thats what its "supposed to do" anyway if everything is working properly like the o2 sensors.
So if your problem is happening at idle, part-throttle, cruising whatever then an afpr isn't going to do anything.....hate to see people throwing money away aimlessly
You do need to verify your timing with a timing light tho...(even though I didn't with my new motor and ran it for like a year cuz the balancer I used had spun 30 degrees and was giving me whack readings and i didnt no why, my fault I didn't check true tdc)
Did you pull yours codes I forget?
Try disconnecting the ECT sensor and see what happens...Engine Coolant Temp sensor on the passenger side black metal lines going to the heater core....It has ALOT to do with how much the computer calculates the air/fuel mixture....Same with the ACT...Air charge temp sensor on the #5 intake runner
Thanks i am out of money on this project, here is a quick update, I unfortunately had no time this weekend to work on, car starts and will idle /run ntil warm then it is a crap shoot whether when you come to a stop if it will die or not I say 2 o of ten times it will die, I have heard of a mod to the idle air bypass, that is sometimes necessary with a larger cam?? also anyone know the idle should be, I have mine @ 800 sounds good but I dont think it likes it too much, plugs look great after the new calb. MAF also when measuring the tps voltage, should car be running, idle???
You don't need the IAC bypass mod. It's another bandaid modification.
Check Jrickers surging idle checklist.
I'd had a number of reasons over the reasons that mine surged then died at a stoplight.
Some of which were: Bad tps (or set badly), bad IAC, and headers with exhaust leaks.
Check Jrickers surging idle checklist.
I'd had a number of reasons over the reasons that mine surged then died at a stoplight.
Some of which were: Bad tps (or set badly), bad IAC, and headers with exhaust leaks.
ls1beater4eva
New Member
this may sound dumb but please tell me that you are plugging the vac line off from the back of the intake and not just leaving the line open ur supposed to leave it open at the map and plug the line off the intake. sounds to me like u are getting a big vac leak and thats what is causing some of ur issues.
WHat. i had this same problem with the same kit and i still have hot starts but (thats a different problem) i've never heard of unpluging the vacuum line off the map
OP: what spark plugs are you running?
I was having this same problem with the F303 cam. I did everything to try and figure it out. It ended up being that the guy who put the intake on before me pinched the lower gasket causing a major internal vacuum leak. In other words the car was running on the air it was pulling in rather than the air through the MAF. Do you have breathers on your valve covers? If so try plugging them and then seeing what your vacuum is at. If you don't have them, try taking off a cover from the valve cover and see if that makes a difference. It does sound like you have vacuum issues some where.
WHen you say the car was running on the air it was pulling in are you talking about it was pulling fresh air from the engine bay instead of meter air? Where exactly did he pinch the gasket? the heads to intake or the intake to block?
I plugged the old map vac. line out of my manifold, The part that is not making sense is it is so random, it is cold starting and idling fair and will idle like that until it runs out of gas, I am far from done "playing" I heard a chatery lifter on startups this morning, I had minor issue of idle going up by itself prior to rebuild, it was also random didn't happen very much, I would just turn off and restart, then fine. I wonder if it is conneted, and is ju now more aggravated? I am running ap25 plugs to answer lawbreaker 5.0, I dig your vert also man, although if your spoiler was painted to match even cooler
Where are you located at? it sounds like we're on the same page, bc mine does the exact same thing. idles fine when cold and as soon as its at operating temp and turned off and turned on it starts rolling and usually dies, does that sound right? (oh i recently rebuilt the bottom end and added TF kit)
I got mine to idle a little better messing with the fuel pressure and raising the idle up. but its def not perfect. at all!
The spoiler would look ghey if it matched the car IMO, i've seen it and it doesn't look cool at all, kinda ricey. i have a black stripe running down the front hood (hard to see in pic)so the black spoiler kinda matches. its a red/black theme.
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