Engine Trouble starting

87lx_

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May 1, 2022
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I’m having problems with getting my new 87 5.0 lx to run properly and as well as when trying to start it I have to loosen the distributor and turn the timing up and down while the car is cranking to get it to start, once it does start and I set the timing to 10 degrees btc it’s runs good till it gets up to temp then the car backfires threw the exhaust doesn’t want to idle and will cut out if you give it more then 1/4 throttle

Car has new coil, distributor, plugs, fuel pressure is good

Any ideas ?
 

Gs1987GT

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Sep 25, 2019
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Are you setting timing with the spout disconnected? Or just getting it running, then setting it to 10 degrees with the spout still connected? If so your timing is going to be way off.
What's wrong with the OEM distributor? The current aftermarket ones are known to be problematic.
 
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87lx_

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Are you setting timing with the spout disconnected? Or just getting it running, then setting it to 10 degrees with the spout still connected? If so your timing is going to be way off.
What's wrong with the OEM distributor? The current aftermarket ones are known to be problematic.
I’m setting it to 10 degrees with the spout out

Not sure about the oem distributor it had an aftermarket one in the car when I bought it
 

Gs1987GT

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Sep 25, 2019
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What is the history on the engine? Is this a fresh rebuild? Has it ever run?

Seems like the distributor may be installed a tooth off? Have you ever had the distributor out?

Have you checked compression?

I suspect you could have sensor issues and when the engine gets up to temp and goes into closed loop, they are showing themselves.

Have you dumped the codes?
 

87lx_

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What is the history on the engine? Is this a fresh rebuild? Has it ever run?

Seems like the distributor may be installed a tooth off? Have you ever had the distributor out?

Have you checked compression?

I suspect you could have sensor issues and when the engine gets up to temp and goes into closed loop, they are showing themselves.

Have you dumped the codes?
Car has 150,000km all original no rebuild or internal work from what I know of and was running good for about 120km when I first got the car

I changed the distributor when the car first broke down and isn’t a tooth out

I tried dumping the codes but computer won’t go into diagnostic mode, the the black and white wire from the OBD 1 port that also serves ground for the sensors is good but the white and red wire you jump to the ODB port doesn’t have continuity
 

Mustang5L5

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Did you get a code 11 with it running? Or no codes at all?

Code 87 is likely an old code from when you may have stalled the car if it was pulled with engine off. I would erase your codes, do a quick engine startup and let it run, and then dump the codes ago.

You should get theee 11s if all good.

Key on, engine off: 11
Continuous Memory : 11
Key on, engine running: 11

So when someone says no codes, they should actually get 3 codes. So do you have 11s?
 
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87lx_

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Did you get a code 11 with it running? Or no codes at all?

Code 87 is likely an old code from when you may have stalled the car if it was pulled with engine off. I would erase your codes, do a quick engine startup and let it run, and then dump the codes ago.

You should get theee 11s if all good.

Key on, engine off: 11
Continuous Memory : 11
Key on, engine running: 11

So when someone says no codes, they should actually get 3 codes. So do you have 11s?
I do have the 11s when running but no other codes
 

manicmechanic007

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Sep 26, 2017
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Generally the only trouble with no start that will not set a code is the fuel system
Pump and pressure regulator mainly
Double check you have 35psi fuel pressure at the rail
Double check it sparks real good (use a spark tester)(make it jump the 40kv gap on the tester)
 

87lx_

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May 1, 2022
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Generally the only trouble with no start that will not set a code is the fuel system
Pump and pressure regulator mainly
Double check you have 35psi fuel pressure at the rail
Double check it sparks real good (use a spark tester)(make it jump the 40kv gap on the tester)
It was 38psi at the fuel rail and hood spark

I can get the car to start but only if I turn the distributor slightly while the car is cranking once it does start and timing is set it idles like crap and backfires through the exhaust
 

manicmechanic007

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Sep 26, 2017
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Get it running and keep your foot in it
Keep it running around 2200 rpm until it clears out
The exhaust backfire might just be raw fuel in the exhaust from you jacking with the timing to get it started
So get it started, keep it running, set the timing, wait until it gets operating temperature before you shut it off
Then let it cool down completely and do it again