Trying To Match The Hci-plus-vortech Build Described In This Article As Close As Possible

revcor

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I found this article a long time ago, and recently found it again. It pretty much describes the build after which I want to model my own daily driver that also sees a handful of dragstrip days. It describes a 5.0 with a pretty standard HCI combo (Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 170 heads, Trick Flow Stage 1 cam, Edelbrock Performer intake manifold) to which they decide to add a Vortech V-3 SCi supercharger kit (the most basic, entry-level kit: ~5-6psi boost). They describe supporting mods as well e.g. 255lph in-tank pump plus Vortech T-Rex external pump, DiabloSport Delta chip, shorty headers, one-step-colder-than-stock plugs, MSD coil, cap, rotor, Pro-M 80mm MAF, throttle body, 60lb Ford Racing injectors, etc.

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-...i-supercharger-mustang-5l-engine-kit-upgrade/

Their results are pretty surprising, to me, at least. The car with just HCI combo produced, at the wheels, 309 horsepower and 341 lb-ft torque. With the Vortech kit added, the finished product yielded, at the wheels, 405 horsepower and 409 lb-ft torque. More impressive than I expected. I also thought that somewhere in the article was the author supposing that this could get you into the mid-11's with slicks and good driving, but I can't find it now and may very well have made that part up or misattributed it from another article.

Being that this piece was written almost ten years ago, and also that the motor was built without the knowledge/intention of forced induction in its future, I'm curious if anyone has any critiques, or things they'd have done differently. Perhaps with the motor top end components, or if, had it been destined from the beginning to end up supercharged, it might change your choice of camshaft for example. Also, if you wanted to aim for this same build today, but wanted to do it for $1,000 less, what things would you change to stay on budget while retaining as much power and keeping the build as well-balanced as possible (keeping in mind that I already own a rebuilt stock 306 as a starting point and a Vortech V-3 SCi kit to go on it)?
 
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FastDriver

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I'd guess the newer 340 LPH pumps would be all you'd need, but the 255 + in-line or KB boost-a-pump are the old ways of doing it.

I'd not worry about premium Heads or intake and my goal would be 500 rwhp at 15psig or less. Any combo that gets you into the 270+ range n/a would be enough to make maxing the block feasible on pump fuel. Any aluminum head. A GT40, explorer, Cobra, or Performer intake are great for torque. Any mild cam would help, but I'd just be looking for the best deals on these parts. I'd keep compression low for max power w/o detonation on pump gas. So, 8.5-9:1. 42 lbs injectors would be adequate.

For the blowers, procharger or vortech seem to do well, and I'd stay away from powerdyne. I've just seen too many disappointing combos with those. Gonna need to build the T5, or go TKO, or T56. 31+ spline axles, and a full suspension with some sticky tires.

That recipe is good for 500rwhp and easy 10s.
 

Reddevil91

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Would this set up be any better with say the Stage 2 cam or an F-cam, just asking bc this is basically what I’m getting, same heads and power adder. With a pro-m 80 with either 42,44,or 47lb injectors to match. I currently have F cam but have debating on swapping to TF stage 1 or 2. Also does it matter on injectors if they are EV1 vs EV6.
 

FastDriver

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I don't know, but I'm interested in opinions from anyone who knows cams. It looks like the F-cam has more intake duration (226), more lobe separation (114), and less lift .512. The Stage 2 has less intake duration (224), less lobe separation (112), a bias that gives it a bunch more exhaust duration (232) and more life (.542/.563 @ .050").

My intuition says that in a turbo car, the F-cam wins due to the wider lope sep, which reduces reversion. It's a known turbo cam. However, I believe blower cars typically want more exhaust duration. The tighter lobe sep should also allow for better cylinder evacuation, and the extra lift will offset the 2 degree duration difference. If I had to take a stab, I'd go with the Stage II. Interested in other opinions, though.
 
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Reddevil91

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I don't know, but I'm interested in opinions from anyone who knows cams. It looks like the F-cam has more intake duration (226), more lobe separation (114), and less lift .512. The Stage 2 has less intake duration (224), less lobe separation (112), a bias that gives it a bunch more exhaust duration (232) and more life (.542/.563 @ .050").

My intuition says that in a turbo car, the F-cam wins due to the wider lope sep, which reduces reversion. It's a known turbo cam. However, I believe blower cars typically want more exhaust duration. The tighter lobe sep should also allow for better cylinder evacuation, and the extra lift will offset the 2 degree duration difference. If I had to take a stab, I'd go with the Stage II. Interested in other opinions, though.
Was really hoping for some chiming in by now!!
 

Reddevil91

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3F74CFFE-179B-463D-8B4C-CBD0BC4122DF.jpeg
Well... it's not 2009 so if you want to run fast.... don't use that old Real Street build as a reference.

;)
Ha this is true but I’ll probably run the V3 SI with tubular GT40, TFs 11r 170s, 1.6s, pro m 80 with 47lb inj. Was just wondering with out going to a custom cam would my F cam be good or is the TF stage 2 a better after market cam? Also I’m getting back into the game, car has been parked for 14 years. Now back in the day GT40 tubular was the big dog. Is this still good? Or should I swap out to say what I’ve seen a lot of ppl using on the fox’s now and get the Holley Systemax 2 or TF R series? Would be kind of a bummer since I just powder coated mine and it looks good.
 
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FastDriver

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That's a damn good looking GT40! The answer is that it will hold the combination back. You might consider having the lower ported. That will help some.... maybe on the order of 10-15 hp. However, another intake entirely would be better for making power.
 
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Reddevil91

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All depends on whether you want "pretty" or fast... :p

I can do a complete package for you but (for whatever it's worth) what you are currently planning is 180 degrees from what I do. :)
Ha I’m taking you are geared more towards track days? I can’t help but want both pretty & fast But I would take any advice. I’ve considered pulling my stock 302 and either stroking it or buying one of 347 stroker short blocks on LMR either the dart or Ford Performance. I’ve been told I could probably/ maybe push 400hp with my 302 with that setup I explained. My car is more aimed at weekender, car show etc but fast. I’d love to hit mid 400s or even push 500hp but in reality that’s just me wanting to go real fast!!!
 

Reddevil91

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That's a damn good looking GT40! The answer is that it will hold the combination back. You might consider having the lower ported. That will help some.... maybe on the order of 10-15 hp. However, another intake entirely would be better for making power.
Thanks man, seems as though a lot of ppl are still using these, and cobras or explorer intakes. But as I thought would be the answer sadly is that it would work but... might be restrictive vs getting one of those other intakes I mentioned. Idk maybe I’ll just try it and run it, see what kinda numbers I get and take it from there. Or sell it and just buy a TF R series. Decisions!!
 

7991LXnSHO

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A @tmoss ported lower might be worth more than that on a supercharged motor. Ask him. I bet the other intakes will be great after they get done tweaking them.
 
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EDC

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Ha I’m taking you are geared more towards track days? I can’t help but want both pretty & fast But I would take any advice. I’ve considered pulling my stock 302 and either stroking it or buying one of 347 stroker short blocks on LMR either the dart or Ford Performance. I’ve been told I could probably/ maybe push 400hp with my 302 with that setup I explained. My car is more aimed at weekender, car show etc but fast. I’d love to hit mid 400s or even push 500hp but in reality that’s just me wanting to go real fast!!!

Not track but useful power. You would be surprised how much power can be attained with the right parts. A correctly built combination can make about 450 RWHP on pump fuel, be daily driven and not break the bank. Then again, there are those who spend a ton of money for mediocre results because they failed to match the piece properly.
 
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Reddevil91

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Not track but useful power. You would be surprised how much power can be attained with the right parts. A correctly built combination can make about 450 RWHP on pump fuel, be daily driven and not break the bank. Then again, there are those who spend a ton of money for mediocre results because they failed to match the piece properly.
That’s very true, I def don’t want to throw money for mediocre results. I want what I am buying to work together and give me the bang for my buck. Again that was the combo I was looking at h/c/i wise. Pro m 80 w/ 47lb inj. Looking at the V3 si and probably aeromotive fuel regulator and 340 fuel pump. What flaws do you see there?