Tuning For 24lb Injectors

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by 69idi, Feb 25, 2014.

  1. There are meters that are considerably better than others. Pro-M and PMAS are some of the better offerings.

    The previous owner probably had upgrade plans that were never realized. The plan that I outlined in the post above is one approach that is relatively inexpensive while still making performance sense. Of course, there are also other ways to do it.

    If you hang out in this forum long enough, you will see a couple dozen other approaches to building power. It's not that difficult to come up with a plan of your own that you like.

    Regardless of the way you chose to go, it's ALWAYS a good idea to buy your present mod while keeping an eye on your future mods. It keeps you from spending money twice.

    So if you decide to buy another Mass Air Meter, buy it for the engine combo that you WANT to have and not for the one that you currently have. It makes future upgrades a lot less painful on the wallet.

    Like anything else though, there are limitations. It's easy to purchase parts that are not good for current combo and will not be very good for your future combo as well. It's always best to write it all down, ask questions, and get a good map from where you are to where you want to be.

    All of these guys that have responded to your thread are very good at doing just that. Most of them have done it many times over, have made the mistakes, and now know better. What's in their heads can prevent you from tossing money out the window. :)

    Good Luck! :nice:

    Footnote: I personally, do not subscribe to the idea that ANY air meter with a removable sample tube is a good idea. I avoid them like the plague. Sure... There are folks out there that have them, made them work well, and swear by them. For everyone on of those, I can probably dig up two more that got nothing but headaches from 'budget' Mass Air Meters. In my opinion, the meter is not a good place to save money.
  2. Just say it already.... Do not use a C&L maf.. Go ahead, ban me
    f8tlfiveo likes this.
  3. Nope... I agree 1000%!

    Though, I've not done a good banning in quite some time. :chin
    A5literMan likes this.

  4. I've tried... I apparently do not possess the necessary abilities to ban a SuperAdmin (me). :shrug:

    I did try though. :p

  5. You could be right about the accuracy of MAF's in general, but I would think anyone knowledgeable of what a MAF does, and makes this claim, will be speaking of very minimal deviations in accuracy. The accuracy of the MAF will depend on who you buy it from. Pro-M tends to be pretty particular about getting their calibration accurate.

    But like most have said: We need to know the full combo that you currently have before good sound advice can be dispensed. Any advice now is merely reflecting the norms of these combo mods and everybody knows to tune a combo properly, it has to be done for your specific car's combo to get the "optimal" performance.

    Sounds like you have it all torn apart anyway, just mic the parts and post..... Believe me, I know how it goes when you buy a used ex-racer from someone who may not know what they were doing: "It's like a box of chocolates - you never know what you're going to get."
  6. If you have the money find a junkyard lightning 90mm MAF and have it calibrated for your tune. Ford OEM quality and IMO one of the best flowing MAF's out there. If not, I say PRO M, C&L are nightmares that cause all kinds of problems due to the sampling tubes.
  7. Most people are avoiding the Lightning MAF now.

  8. LMAFs aren't capable of being calibrated. Same with all Ford MAFs. Calibration is in the ECU whether it's a piggyback or stand-alone system.
  9. Why?
  10. I'm not a MAF expert, but my general understanding is that they are too limited. They top out at a little over 400hp, and they are slow at refreshing the readings. Something like that.

  11. This is dead wrong. I sent a lightning mass air to pmas and had it recald for 60 lb injectors and the car ran great. We had plenty on voltage signal range and it supported 495 rwhp easily on a car that I used to own.

  12. This is true. They do peg rather low but if you're not intending to pull that many CFM they are still hands down, one of the best for resolution and drivability.

    This is also true. I hesitate to recommend this because the resolution I spoke about above, tends to suffer (not be as good as it was). This is how you cure the CFM pegging issue though. At this point, it's 'almost' as cost effective to purchase a PMAS outright, unless you got the meter for free.
  13. Keep in mind when I did that it was 2001 and there were not nearly the options available today. These days I agree its cheaper to just buy a meter.
  14. I still really like the LMAF meters. Even these days they're an awesome option for a street build. Any sub-500 HP street build with a decent tuner make those units a near miracle. :nice:
  15. Well, the last time I did a LMAF it was around 2000, so I agree there may be better options these days. I had mine calibrated by Chris Johnson and it worked flawlessly. I'd run one again in a heartbeat. That being said, Pro M's are hard to beat and when all is said and done cost wise, you may be better off that way, as they charge like $100 to recalibrate them.
  16. Ugh I just put a LMAF on this week. I'm using a quarterhorse/be so I was able to get it running pretty quick and runs well. I just hope I don't peg it when I add boost soon.
    FoxtrotTangoWhiskey likes this.

  17. If you're running a factory block, you should be just fine. Pegging that meter will indicate that your well beyond block splitting territory. Don't forget that at WOT, your meter is not being referenced.
  18. I meant to say that LMAFs and all Ford MAFs are not calibrated. That's not to say they can't be calibrated. What EMS were you using to tune? Just wondering why the calibration wasn't done in the tune.