Tuning input 92 5.8 with a mircosquirt

Hi guys new to the group. Now I've been reading these forms for 7 years. But know I need to reach out to other super smart individuals.

I had built a 92lx coupe with a 96 351w ported sr heads fcam edelbrock rpm2 intake and now a mircosquirt v3 I am having tuning issues. I even downloaded the auto tune since it said it was the price of dinner... Haha (up here in Canada it was a pricey night) I've fixed my timing at 12 and now I can verify that on the crank but I can't get it to communicate from the MS to the crank. Say if adjust the timing on the MS to 20 it still shows 10 on the crank.

More or less thats my mine issue but I'm sure I'll have more to come as I am a straight noobe right now and I'm lost right now. I'm not even sure if I'm in the right track..

Final steps before she on the road after 7 years of working on it and want to ask my girlfriends hand in marriage on a nice drive in the mountains since she's been on huge reason why the car is where she's at.
 
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Alright walk me through how you're trying to set the timing. Most people make the mistake of removing the spout connector you have to leave it in when setting the timing on Mega squirt. Have you watched my video on setting the timing?
 
Welcome!!! It's always great to have another MS User on the forum. We will be able to help assist you in getting this car up and running. Congrats on the upcoming marriage as well.
 
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I haven't watched the video no but I've been reading tons of pages forms now when I fire it up with the timing fixed in and the spout out she runs great spout in back fires and pops

Thank you for the warm welcome guys :) definitely appreciate it
 
Side note: It is helpful to pull the spout in order to locate the rotor edge in relation to the cap post, ensuring you have a usable range of rotor edge in relation to range of advance/retard. Not needed to sync commanded to actual timing, which I assume is what you're talking about, but still useful if stabbing installing a distributor or not knowing where yours was stabbed. I always made sure mine was properly located before starting a tune. It would be lame to command 36° at cruise and be "mechanically" limited to like 20°.

Side note 2: I've polled a lot of people and it seems some people with PNPG2 units have trouble removing the spout without the car dying. This was never a problem on Ms2/Ms3 installs as far as I know. Maybe their rotors positions were so jacked that it wouldn't run without computer advance, I'm not sure, but it's something I'm still lightly investigating.
 
I have never tuned a pnp ms2 that works with the spout removed fwiw... seems to be a issue that diy tells me does not exist. I know the rotor position is perfectly fine on these engines as the stock ECU gets used to set the rotor position with a clear/windowed cap.
 
I have never tuned a pnp ms2 that works with the spout removed fwiw... seems to be a issue that diy tells me does not exist. I know the rotor position is perfectly fine on these engines as the stock ECU gets used to set the rotor position with a clear/windowed cap.

Yeah the PNPG2's are what I'm referring to, very odd though because the older MS2 PNP's (based on V3.57 with metal case) and the DIYPNP's seem to work with spout out as the factory ECU does, which is great for quickly checking for 10° with a light.
 
Yeah the PNPG2's are what I'm referring to, very odd though because the older MS2 PNP's (based on V3.57 with metal case) and the DIYPNP's seem to work with spout out as the factory ECU does, which is great for quickly checking for 10° with a light.
another great method if you cannot get the car to run with the spout out, is to roll the engine by hand to 25*BTDC you can then check that the rotor is positioned somewhat center on the cap post. I like this method if the person i am helping remotely is a bit mechanically inclined and the spout method does not work.
 
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