Tuning The Tv Cable On An Aod

Edbert

Founding Member
Jul 13, 2002
3,548
32
109
Austin TX
www.edbert.net
So the car is:
  • 1967 Mustang convertible
  • C-code replaced by a built 351W (estimating 425hp/425tq)
  • C4 replaced by a 1993 AOD from a 5.0 Mustang that has also been "built"
  • 2,800RPM Stall
  • Holley 750 using the Lokar bracket and TV cable
  • Factory shifter (P-R-N-D-2-1) so I have no "1" on the AOD
  • 20,000 pound "RV" oil cooler in front of radiator
  • AN fittings and braided steel hoses
  • Fluid filled pressure gauge that reads 0-100PSI but also shows 2 pound increments

The trans has solid input shafts (to eliminate a known weak part of the AOD) and a shift kit with an aftermarket (B&M I think) valve body, that is about all I know since Transmissions are not something I fully understand.

So I adjusted everything as specified by Lokar (TV pressure and cable-tension etc.) and the car drove poorly, shifting 1-2 then 2-3 at very low throttle and not coming back down to 1st gear. So I found/read an article on another forum where a person discovered that TCI and Lokar support and instructions do not cover retrofitting an AOD into a carburated car that did not come with a TV cable. I followed advice as much as possible, basically called for a throttle return spring on the kickdown level at the tans as well as a slight pre-load on the cable to show 2-4 PSI at idle, and it is MUCH better but still needs some work and tuning.

I've got the little acorn nut with allen screw locked down on the cable now and am trying to make final adjustments using the conical nuts on the Lokar cable to make tiny adjustments on the tension trying to get it at the 2-4PSI at idle as recommended by the forum. Sitting there at 0 PSI @ idle I begin adding some pre-load by turning the threaded tube and the pressure doesn't move, turn a little more and nothing, turn a little more and it jumps from 0 to 11 with just the slightest possible change. I think with some luck and multiple attempts I could get the number nearer to 5 but is it supposed to be THAT sensitive? I'm talking about a 1/16-1/8 turn of the nut here, the cable movement must be less than 1/32 of an inch. I cannot see that degree of sensitivity being correct or normal.

What should I do? I'm worried about burning up the Trans just with small 1,000 yard test drives. Is 10-12PSI at idle too much? The brakes easily hold it back and from a dead stop the car rolls forward slowly (as opposed to speeding away) when I lift off the brake.
 
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Edbert

Founding Member
Jul 13, 2002
3,548
32
109
Austin TX
www.edbert.net
I have an idea of what may be my problem, wanted a second opinion or sanity check...

So I am having trouble getting the idle down to 800RPM, I can get it there but it is rough with the vacuum gauge bouncing. At 900 it is better, at 1,000RPM it purrs. That is mostly due to a big cam but is also the subject of another thread.

Here's what I am thinking...
With the idle being more than 50% above "stock" I am running outside of the idle circuit of the carb (Holley 750 vac) and am getting into the off-idle circuit. By being in the off-idle circuit any press of the throttle takes me into or near to the cruise circuit and the AOD thinks I am pulling away from a light so up goes the pressure. I add that tiny amount of tension and the pressure goes up FAST.

Do you think that makes any sense?