Tuning worth it on stock motor w/ bolt ons

90limited

Founding Member
Apr 13, 2002
276
3
18
Port Charlotte FL
I have a stock 1990 5.0 with the normal bolt ons, 70 mm MAF, TMoss port intakes, gasket matched and ported E7's, 1.7 roller rockers, trcik flow springs, Ford ceramic shorties, Magnaflow cat H-pipe, Mac Catback, pullies.

Is a custom tune on a dyno worth the time and money. I did a search but did not get a real answer....
 
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Or you could get a Tweecer and learn to do it yourself. I had one on my 89 and it was great. I've been messing around, but I need to get one for my 91. Won't make a huge difference, but I like to tinker with it. Plus whenever I build a new engine for the car I'll need it anyway.
 
Do you have any driveability issues?

If no, then don't do it.

You may be able to get a slight bump in power from leaning out your WOT fuel curve and from timing, but it won't be worth the money.
 
Is a custom tune on a dyno worth the time and money. I did a search but did not get a real answer....

Since you still have the stock cam, don't bother. I've done similar mods and still have the stock 19lb injectors. Only supporting items are 190lph fuel pump and an AFPR set at 45psi (vacuum detached). Engine runs great and has no driveability issues.
 
You will get more bang for you buck by insuring that all the sensors & their associated wiring are in good shape. Make sure you don't have any codes that might cause performance problems. Do a quality tune up with new plug wires, plugs, cap, rotor, fuel and air filters. Combine these things together and you could recover some HP lost to time and wear. Admittedly, it isn't as exciting as a Dyno run and spending lots of $$$, but it is effective.
 
Adjusting the timing and fuel pressure is all the "tuning" an N/A 5.0 needs. I wouldnt mess the with computer until you throw some boost on there. Custom burnt chip from a reputable shop is the way to in my opinion, someone who does it everyday and knows what their doing, its gonna cost you though. The cheaper way is to go with a tweecer or Moates Quarter Horse, but they have a pretty steep learning curve if you've never done it before. But again, complete waste of money unless your pushing some boost.
 
Or you could get a Tweecer and learn to do it yourself.

Or check out the Quarterhorse at Welcome to www.moates.net! : Moates.Net. Gaining popularity quickly as it is an emulator that allows real time tuning. AKA, idle is jacked up, make a change, hit enter and it changes right then. No shut down, load up tune, or burn chip to do. When you get it right, unplug the laptop and your tune is done. I use one with an LC-1 wideband tapped into my EGR position in the computer and Craig at moates wrote a def file for my tuning program to conver that directly to an AFR that is datalogable. Very easy to do. The software is anywhere from free (requesting a 30$ donation) for Tunerpro (still in beta for fords, but very close to finished) to 300$ or so for Binary Editor with EEC analyzer, with a couple in between.
 
Just remember this, there is almost nothing the stock computer can't handle.
So if you are fixing something with computer tuning, you are bandaiding a real mechanical problem.

I've watched people with these tuning devices do up there own cars, only to see the guys that work at my buddies shop produce better running more powerful cars by removing them.

BTW, a high sticking idle is not always the iac, sometimes it's the tps.
 
My personal opinion, a computer chip is a waste of money. I mean its perfect if you have your car done and are not going to do anything else to it, then its fine. I opted for the PMS from Anderson, best investment yet! Idles like a 2011 GT, with over 500 rwhp, its perfect!!
 
One of the tricks I've done to tune a non-Ford with factory turbo is to use a fuel control device that attaches between the MAF and ECU to alter the signal based on RPM range on graphic equalizer-like knobs. The first thing you do with this is knock all the knobs down to -10% to cut out the rich mixture programmed into the open loop fuel maps. This can be fine tuned with a wideback and/or EGT.

Regardless of the device used, does a SBF tend to benefit from leaning the mixture off the factory fuel maps this way? Guess I'll have to put my car on a dyno to know for sure.