turbo install

Discussion in 'Regional Forums and Event Information' started by LordMustangGT, Nov 3, 2007.

  1. ok it just wont run good at all. It spits and sputters hard under boost and still wont start normal. I didn't look for the green mark in the C&L but I did notice the it doesn't have a stock mass air meter. Its a pro m 75mm set for 19's. You think this would matter at all? Either way I just shot John an e mail over at horse power ranch, well see if I can get it in there.
  2. First off, what injectors are in the car? What plugs? What gap on the plugs? What fuel pressure? What timing?

    If you have 42's, and the correct meter, pull the spout and set your timing to 18-20ish. Leave the spout out. Pull the plugs and get a fresh set 1 heat range cooler, and gap them at .025 - .028. Fill it up with super, and go make a small pull and watch your A/F.

    Do you have the wastegate vac lines hooked up right? Just incase it runs gooooood?:eek: :nice:

  3. id imagine the 42's are also making it hard to strat because its trying to squirt too much gas in there. I have to subtract almost 20percent from start up fuel to get mine to start like stock. Try holding the pedal to the floor when you start, thatll shut off the injectors.

    Btw if you do have 42's like stangler said then def watch your a/f because i was at 100 percent duty cycle at 11 psi with the base jacked up to something like 40psi...with a 255 intank also

  4. just out of curiousity, how do you find your injector duty cycle?
  5. well in order to know the duty cycle you need to know rpm and injector pulse width. To measure pulse width id imagine you use the scope or,like the pms, read directly from the ecu.

  6. On my car, I have the MegaSquirt DFI, and it is something that the datalogger logs for you. I've seen as high as 120%,.....:D but to you and me that just means they're open.....:D :D :nice:


    p.s. @ 9lbs and 11.0 a/f I was seeing 70-75ish duty cycle....:flag:
  7. but nate runs a LOW fuel pressure too, once we get a real pump in it and jack the pressure up to 60 or so it'll be much more gooder. ;)
  8. ya,.. it idles soooo nice at low pressure.....:D
  9. Matt, your meter MUST be calibrated for your 42s for it to run decent. With a good calibrated meter and stockish fuel pressure your car "should" run pretty close to like stock. BTW, didnt you get a BTM?

    86turbo, the .96 is the one thats on my car right now and as far as exact numbers I dont really remember. I might have the dyno sheet from when I ran the .68 someplace but Im doubting it. The .96 made right at 480 rwhp and 541 ft lbs and if memory serves the .68 was down into the 430 to 440 range at peak in hp and the torque peak numbers were pretty close but came in a few hundred rpm sooner and the torque dropped off significantly sooner.
    The dynos were only a week or so apart with 12-13 psi and were with a stock long block with E7s that had never been off. I have GT40-Xs now so things might work out a bit different now.
    BTW what heads cam and intake are you running?
  10. tw heads, stage 1 cam and edel performer intake
  11. ok I have 42's and I'm 99% sure the mass air meter is right. Timming is stock. I'm running autolite 23's and i even turned the FP up to 43 or so. A/F is more on the lean side than anything else. BTM is in the car but the wiring not done on it. Not 100% sure how that hooks up yet. Well I should say I don't know what wire to tap into on the dis. Spout is already out as well.
  12. Sounds like you have a fair amount more flow than I have. Out of curiousity is your exhaust housing a V-band?

    Matt if your spout is out you must run whatever you want your total timing to be because you no longer have the ECU controlling your advance. Im not sure thats your issue but with the spout out at 10 degrees it certainly wont run very well. A quick easy way to test that is to run your timing down to 7-8 degrees and throw the spout back in. With the boost turned all the way down and premium in the tank it should be fine.
  13. yes it is....I have v bands all around.
  14. I'll put the spout back in like I had it but it still runs about the same either way. With the spout in it should hit a total timing of about 30deg and a base of 10. I'll set it down to about 7-8 base and put the spout back in. I guess I really need to hook up that BTM. Which wire do you tap into on the dis??
  15. you don't need the BTM, you need to figure out why it's stumbling. If the total timing is in the low 20's under boost you're fine regardless how you get there.
  16. this is the vid I just shot of it today. It started right up, but it only does that when its cold. It's still got the tube to the back of the heads open, so It sounds like a huge exhaust leak.

  17. That is true but he said he had it at stock timing with the spout out and it wouldnt run very good that way. I wasnt sure what the exact symptoms were and that was something that was obviously wrong.

    Matt it really sounds to me like your fighting a meter issue. How does it idle, whats the throttle response like? Does it smell lean or rich at idle or when you rev it? Is it bucking or stuttering at cruise? I wish I could come down and give you a hand but Im in sunny and 70 degree so-cal at the moment.

    86turbo, one of the reasons I lost the power I did might be how much more restrictive my 4 on center housings are. Maybe it might be a good idea for me to try a V-band .68 and see how that does.:shrug:
  18. It doesn't idle that why I have it set at like 1,500 and it gives your eyes this burning feeling if you get to close. It wont start when its warm at all and throttle response SUCKS. I have a tune set-up at Horse Power Ranch for the 3rd anyway, I still haven't taking that Mass-air meter out to look for the green mark, "its inside the fender-well" PITA to get to. I might just run up to my dads today and check that peice out. Live up the Sunny weather while you can EJ, :nice:
  19. Even if it has the green mark, your still using a sensor that was calibrated for the housing it was in, NOT the C&L.
    The C&L housing needs a STOCK meter for its sampling tubes to be correct, and C&L's (as a general rule) hate being a blow through.

    Your pissing in the wind, imo.
  20. Oh yea, I guess I missed that. Yea your gonna need to get the stock MAF electronics with a C&L. Just because the Pro-M elect. is calibrated for the same size injectors doesnt mean its calibrated for the same flow of the meter or restriction of the sample tube for that size injector. And I must have missed that you were trying to run a C&L as a blow through too. Its not that it cant work but in a blow through appl. it generally wont help as much by clocking the meter like in a n/a appl. and thats usually the best way to make a C&L run well.
    Also if you take it to get it tuned without either a way to tune the a/f for driveability(stand alone or piggy back system) or the meter working right there isnt much they will be able to do for you.