Nice vids!
Couple of tips from one beginner to another (experts may chime in with better stuff):
- give the motor what it wants, not what you think it *should* want.
- Dialing in idle: Focus on warm idle first. I don't use the IAC so I let my car idle a bit higher at ~900 rpm. I aimed for and achieved 10* timing. The car seems to like AFRs in the 13.8-14.2 range.
- if your EEC has an idle delta that can adjust, use it to cradle the idle so that it advances if the idle drops too low or pull timing if the idle goes to high.
- make absolutely sure that your EEC thinks it actually is at idle. If my "TPS at idle" parameter is not higher than my actual TPS at idle, then the EEC will not use idle delta and other features.
Driveability
- for driveability err on the side of slightly rich. The car falls on its face when it goes lean. I'd rather run around a point richer than I'm aiming for and dial it back than to be running a point leaner and trying to add more in. Your car will constantly fall on its face if it's too lean, but it won't if it's too rich. Don't go to extremes, though. Though I aim for 14.5 at cruise and light loads, 12-13 AFRs aren't going to hurt anything, beyond having a bit of smoke from the exhaust. That helps keep the car from falling on its face when other cells are too lean. Then I start working it back. Go too rich for too long (like 10s or less) and you could wash down cylinder walls, I've heard. At cruising loads, I aim for mid 14 AFRs, I've gone as lean as 15 at cruise, though.
- dial in the main fuel tables before doing much with the transient tables. I thought I was having transient fuel table issues, but was surprised how much getting the main fuel tables right got rid of the need to mess with transient stuff.
After you get the warm idle working, you can start working on cold idle. Figure out how your EEC controls timing at "cold idle." There might be a coolant temperature spark adjustment table. However, for me, it's the bottom left most cell in the main spark table, even though that is not the load-rpm I'm at during cold idle. My computer considers this a useless cell and it took scrutiny of the manual to figure it out. I think mine needed somewhere around 27* at cold idle. I also had to go into the coolant-temp fuel adjustment table and richen up the mixture. I'm still working through that, though.
That's the order I tune stuff in. It might be smarter to get the WOT sorted out first, though. That might help prevent the need for adjustments. For example, I had to readjust the x and y axes to all of my tables. On a dyno, you might realize you need to adjust fuel pressure, or change a part. Or you might just find a bad part that has affected the entire tune. So, if you dial in WOT first, you might save yourself double work.
