Tweecer Questions

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by ninety15.0, Jul 10, 2007.

  1. Hey guys, I have a couple questions. I have worked with the tweecer before on a friends KB blown 94...and i just picked one up for my car, but its been three years since I've used one. I want to start with just a basic's what I'm thinking of changing so far. Load the Pro-M MAF settings, change the injector settings (High/low slope, breakpoint) and adjust the injector offset vs battery table. I'm not running the EGR or Thermactor so i need to know what number to put in those scalar it 0 or 1 for non-functional??? Also I don't know what to do about any spark advance or idle speed. Should i adjust the idle mechanically back down to 650-750 and then tweak it from there. I already retarded the timing at the dizzy back to 10* but I'm not sure of the best way to advance the timing in the tweecer?! Sorry for the long post but any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  2. EGR system type scalar should be 2 for disabled. Thermactor system scalar should be 0 for disabled. I adjusted the idle down mechanically, set the tps voltage, and then used the tweecer to set my idle. Its really important to make sure your MAF transfer is accurate before you start trying to get the idle correct.
  3. Should I adjust the MAF transfer at all or will the loaded Pro-M calibrations work fine? What should i do about spark advance at first? The car runs best with approximately 14-16* of timing with no pinging what so ever! Thanks
  4. I'm not sure if you should mess with the MAF transfer or not. It really depends on your MAF. Mine was mis-labelled so I had to do some fine tuning to get it more accurate. For the spark advance there are some global spark adders that you can use to just add spark kinda like adjusting the distributor. This kinda limits you though so you could try and adjust the spark tables for various loads/rpms. I haven't figured out a good way to do this yet.
  5. I figure that just for the time being, i want to make the immediate changes that will get the car running and improve overall driveability. I'm not too concerned with tweaking for max power right now. I want to clear up some poor part throttle performance, cold start & idle issues, EGR/Thermactor systems. I will eventually get into the spark/fuel tables once i learn a little more about how to properly adjust them. I feel like i have been reading about these changes non stop for two weeks now and I'm just breaking the surface. Any input is appreciated! thanks
  6. Yeah, I know what you mean. I just got the car idling good for the first time in a long time so it really fealt good. I know I have only scratched the surface. There is another site dedicated to tuning, You might check that out if you haven't already. Seems to be a lot of good information. Also, I've recently switched to using BinEdit and EEC Analyzer software to help tune. You might want to check out their website as well.
  7. Yea I actually have the same post going over at as well. They seem to really know their $hit over there. I have been reading everything i can find over there just to try and learn the processes and software. I also heard about the Binary Editor and I think I want to start running that too. I just don't know where to download it or if you have to pay for it. I think VRIstang is both a member here and on EEC...hopefully he will jump in a share some of his knowledge/experience! thanks again
  8. You can download it for free from the EEC Analyzer website. If you want to use the software to datalog and to download to the tweecer hardware you have to buy a license for $55. I was having trouble datalogging with CalCon so I switched to BinEdit. It seems to work really well.
  9. With adjusting the timing you don't really want to touch anything in the lower load values, when the car is in the higher loads typically WOT this is where you want to make spark advance changes, be warned though that just because alittle is good more isn't better.

    Change the spark tables is something that should be done on a dyno with a WB meter. A WB is an absolute must because if you start going lean and the spark advance is too much you'll start pinging and denotation will set in. This could possibly spell B--O---O--M!!!

    Make sure that the AFR is good or slightly rich, this will get a little padding for adding to much spark advance. Before touching the spark advance make sure that your MAF is properly set as you stated earlier "will this need to be changed?" so long as your metering correctly then you should be good.

    I'm over at as well, those really do know their stuff.
  10. Thanks for the info. No WB right now, just dont have the money for it right now and i have cleared up all of the driveability issues without it. In terms of the spark advance, i just changed the part throttle and WOT adder scalars for the time being. I added 4 degrees to each for a total of 14°. before the tweecer i was running 18° with absolutely no pinging so i know i can feed more timing in if i wanted too. Right now I am dealing with a rich condition. So i changed the low slope number from 24.5 to 26.5 and that seemed to help quite a bit. I also changed the OL mult. scalar by about 5-7 percent which also seemed to help while it is warming up. Still a little rich though, especially at idle. i was told to raise that low slope injector scalar until the idle AFR was good. I dont know how high i should go with it. The High slope value i have set to 30.5 i believe. If you have any suggestions please let me know! thanks