Under Drive Pulleys

Scotth13

New Member
Jul 13, 2016
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Hey guys I'm new to this forum. I have a question I need help with. I own a 2007 GT that is currently in the shop. The guy at the garage has discovered the water pump pulley is cracked. My car has Roush under drive pulleys and the stock pulley will not work. I have contacted Roush and several mustang outlets and I can't find anyone that sells the pulleys individually. They are only sold in the pair. I really don't want to spend $270 on a new set when I only need the water pump pulley. Having said that I have two questions. Does anyone know where I could purchase just the water pump pulley. The second question is, does anyone know the diameter of the SR performance or the BBK water pump pulley. They are $100 cheaper. I would like to use them if the pulleys are the same diameter. The Roush pulley measures right at 6 1/2 inches. Thanks in advance for the help.
 
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If you get the BBK pulleys in a pair, I would think that they would be just as good. You could probably sell your one good pulley to someone with the opposite problem. :)

The stock pulleys would be an upgrade from the Roush under drives?

Yes. The water-pump would be moving the coolant in the volume specified by the engineer that designed it. Under-drive pulleys (particularly partial sets that under-drive a single component what... 20%) freed up 2, maybe 3 Hp at the rear wheels? (I've seen 6 at the wheels with just an alternator belt and no other accessories driven) All for $270. :nice:

That's why I say the stock pulleys would be an upgrade.

Edit: I failed to mention the additional timing that gets pulled on warm days when the cooling system is taxed. Temp increase = Total timing pulled
 
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If you get the BBK pulleys in a pair, I would think that they would be just as good. You could probably sell your one good pulley to someone with the opposite problem. :)



Yes. The water-pump would be moving the coolant in the volume specified by the engineer that designed it. Under-drive pulleys (particularly partial sets that under-drive a single component what... 20%) freed up 2, maybe 3 Hp at the rear wheels? (I've seen 6 at the wheels with just an alternator belt and no other accessories driven) All for $270. :nice:

That's why I say the stock pulleys would be an upgrade.

Edit: I failed to mention the additional timing that gets pulled on warm days when the cooling system is taxed. Temp increase = Total timing pulled
noob, can under drive pulleys cause hard starting when hot, after sitting 1/2 hr to an hour??
 
noob, can under drive pulleys cause hard starting when hot, after sitting 1/2 hr to an hour??


Not usually, no. Hard starting is USUALLY caused by heat soaking the starter. It's why you see so many high torque mini-starters being used with aftermarket headers. There's a couple of things that you can do/try:

A mini-starter (of course) as it has a smaller physical foot-print and is farther away from the heat source (headers and exhaust).
A starter blanket
Header wrap

It might also be a good idea to check the health of your starter cables and connections. The hotter the wiring and connectors become (the starter too for that matter) the more electrical resistance there in within the circuit.

The other USUAL cause would be excessive crank case pressure or high compression (not very usual on these cars).

I've cooked OEM starters and aftermarket mini-starters. They act fine for a while then.... I'm sure you've experienced the same outcome. hehe
 
Not usually, no. Hard starting is USUALLY caused by heat soaking the starter. It's why you see so many high torque mini-starters being used with aftermarket headers. There's a couple of things that you can do/try:

A mini-starter (of course) as it has a smaller physical foot-print and is farther away from the heat source (headers and exhaust).
A starter blanket
Header wrap

It might also be a good idea to check the health of your starter cables and connections. The hotter the wiring and connectors become (the starter too for that matter) the more electrical resistance there in within the circuit.

The other USUAL cause would be excessive crank case pressure or high compression (not very usual on these cars).

I've cooked OEM starters and aftermarket mini-starters. They act fine for a while then.... I'm sure you've experienced the same outcome. hehe
Not usually, no. Hard starting is USUALLY caused by heat soaking the starter. It's why you see so many high torque mini-starters being used with aftermarket headers. There's a couple of things that you can do/try:

A mini-starter (of course) as it has a smaller physical foot-print and is farther away from the heat source (headers and exhaust).
A starter blanket
Header wrap

It might also be a good idea to check the health of your starter cables and connections. The hotter the wiring and connectors become (the starter too for that matter) the more electrical resistance there in within the circuit.

The other USUAL cause would be excessive crank case pressure or high compression (not very usual on these cars).

I've cooked OEM starters and aftermarket mini-starters. They act fine for a while then.... I'm sure you've experienced the same outcome. hehe
Noob, please look at my post "14000 mile 2006 GT starting problems when hot". The starter cranks just fine.