Unique Fuel Pump Issue

CUAviator

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Jan 11, 2015
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BLUF: KOEO, I can hear my fuel pump priming and it doesn’t stop. In fact, the longer I let it go, the faster and higher pitched it gets. The uniqueness is that I can get the car to start (unlike most posts I have read with “fuel pump continues to run” issues).

Car:
1965 Fastback
M-6007-X302 crate motor
EFI
55mm MAF
most emissions delete (EGR, charcoal canister, cats)
A9L with chip
swapped out manual for AOD in 2018
24# injectors
What I believe is a pretty proprietary CCRM (pictured, top and bottom)

Everything on this car is like it was when I bought it, except the AOD swap. It has never run great and has always smelled like gas. When I put the AOD in, it ran way better than it did with the manual but I wanted to sweeten it up - it has always started hard (long time to tune over, especially the more I drove, stopped, and restarted it through out the day), I had been told the idle was too low esp for an auto and raising also might help a little bit of the surging and the gas smell (so I followed the directions on this site to raise the idle), I have verified the TPS, IAC, cleaned the MAF, and checked the spark plugs.

I dumped KOEO codes - got a 15 (prob due to the chip) and 85 (canister purge circuit fail) which was expected. I had to jumper pins 30 and 46 for the KOER. with KOER, I received no codes and the cylinder balance test showed no issues.

When I took the chip out (basically verifying the Code 15) the KOEO = 81, 82, 84, 85. With KOER (no chip) = 13, 21, 33, 44, 94

After putting the chip back then reconnecting my battery, I caught my hand on the trunk (which hurt like crap) and dropped the wrench on the battery positive terminal. SPARKS everywhere. Immediately after that I tried to start the car...no pump prime noise. I dumped the codes and received a 96.

I looked all over the car for a fuel pump relay, finding only the one attached to the “presumed version of my CCRM”. (All of the relays on that board are permanent.). Of the fuses on there, both the Fuel Pump Relay and the EEC fuses were blown which I replaced. And this is where I am - when I turn the key on, the pump primes but does not stop after 3-5 seconds...rather, it gets faster and higher pitched The car starts up immediately, and one might argue better than before. However, now once it’s stated, it surges horribly, but I am afraid to keep it running in case I am damaging something (I cannot hear whether the fuel pump has quieted itself down, but the activation light is still on on the CCRM).

I checked the wires on the computer harness as @jrichker has suggested in other posts regarding fuel pump issues: pin 22 (lt blu/or) with 19,500 ohms; 20, 40, 60 (all black with white stripe) checked ok.

The CCRM seems to have the same pins as most diagrams, but the wire colors are pretty different, thus scares me to start testing that thing.

And because the pump never stops, I cannot dump KOEO codes

Questions:
- What is my next step?
- Is there a way to trick the computer into dumping codes?
- I have an A9L with and AOD...is it time for a new computer? (I think probably)
- If the answer is a new computer, can, or should, I throw the chip in it?

I am a 24 year naval aviator with over 600 carrier landings. I am not too much of an idiot and fairly mechanically inclined but I was a business major with no electrical or mechanical education...ergo, I need to be explained things as if I were a child. I also do not have a giant garage or enough money to consistently screw things up and I cannot perform body work if the body needs to be disassembled. Those are my constraints.

thanks greatly in advance!
 

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John Dirks Jr

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Have you checked the capacitors in the A9L? Many times just a visual check shows them leaking a corroding. If you see that, I recommend addressing it before doing anything else.
 

John Dirks Jr

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
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Also, one of your pictures shows a factory type MAF with a cone filter attached directly to it. That MAF was not initially designed to have a cone filter stuck on the end of it. It may cause faulty reading of incoming air due to turbulence from the cone filter. If you want it setup like you show in the picture, you may need a different MAF. Another option would be to have a length of tubing between the cone filter and MAF to smooth out any turbulence in the airflow before it gets measured by the MAF.

10-4 on the Navy pilot thing! Thanks for serving our country.
 

CUAviator

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Jan 11, 2015
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Have you checked the capacitors in the A9L? Many times just a visual check shows them leaking a corroding. If you see that, I recommend addressing it before doing anything else.
I’ll actually post a picture later today. I think one of them is kind of corroded - the one that gets bent over from pushing in the chip (again, the car came like this).
 

CUAviator

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Jan 11, 2015
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Also, one of your pictures shows a factory type MAF with a cone filter attached directly to it. That MAF was not initially designed to have a cone filter stuck on the end of it. It may cause faulty reading of incoming air due to turbulence from the cone filter. If you want it setup like you show in the picture, you may need a different MAF. Another option would be to have a length of tubing between the cone filter and MAF to smooth out any turbulence in the airflow before it gets measured by the MAF.

10-4 on the Navy pilot thing! Thanks for serving our country.
Thanks for the gouge on the MAF. Any suggestions on which one (I.e. brand, store, 70mm, one calibrated for 24 lb injectors?)

and it’s my pleasure!
 

CUAviator

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Have you checked the capacitors in the A9L? Many times just a visual check shows them leaking a corroding. If you see that, I recommend addressing it before doing anything else.
Here’s a picture of the worst looking capacitor. I also put in a picture with the chip installed to show how the capacitor gets bent (that maybe the norm but I don’t know).
 

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jrichker

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The capacitors definitely need replacement.

Avoid Radio Shack electronic parts whenever possible. Digi-key, Newark, and Mouser are some of the top ones that come to mind. Look for caps with 105° C or higher temp rating and the longest hour rating you can find. The cost difference between the cheapest and the best is usually less that $1.
 
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CUAviator

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The capacitors definitely need replacement.

Avoid Radio Shack electronic parts whenever possible. Digi-key, Newark, and Mouser are some of the top ones that come to mind. Look for caps with 105° C or higher temp rating and the longest hour rating you can find. The cost difference between the cheapest and the best is usually less that $1.
Awesome, thanks for the feedback. After reading a bunch of info on Stangnet, having an AOD with an A9L, I think I am going to just go ahead and swap out my computer to an A9P.
Question though - I swapped out a manual for my AOD but never did anything with the computer. Additionally there is a chip (tuned before I bought the car and the company that did it, that’s nowhere near where I live and they have no records of what they put in the tune) - is there anything I need to do in particular before the swap and can I/should I put the chip back in?
* my vehicle details are in the first post
 

CUAviator

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Also, is this a problem? The wire colors don’t seem to match up with the diagrams I have seen (I.e my pin 49 is black/white and seems to be the SIGRTN, which tested ok per the instructions). The other pins...:shrug:
 

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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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You can chase all this stuff down and still need a retune. That looks like what they call a Moates Quarter Horse chip. It seems like it would be easier and cost effective to switch to a Megasquirt Microsquirt or a MSPNP2. With either one of those @a91what can have that car running better than it ever has.

I see these threads with these failing computers getting more and more common. Someone here just got their computer serviced...but I can't remember who or the thread title.
 

CUAviator

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Actually that looks like either a Bama or SCT chip.
Can I send it in to them and have them reprogram it? Like I mentioned above, I called the place that did it originally to get the specs, based off a receipt I have from the previous owner. They said it was so long ago they have no record of it. They’re in CA. I’m in TX. The previous owner died of cancer (which is why he sold the car).
 

John Dirks Jr

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If it’s a Bama chip with the typical pre loaded tunes it’s probably not doing much to benefit. I’m not so sure your engine setup really needs a custom tune anyway . A properly functioning Ford eec iv should handle your setup fine as long as the injectors and Maf match and the other important sensors are working.

Since the capacitors are failing the ECU needs service. Send it out and they’ll swap it for a refurbished one. I’ve done this with two of mine and they work great! Here’s the service I used.

 

John Dirks Jr

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Sorry if that link won’t work. I can’t seem to get it right via smartphone. I’ll try again later from pc
 

CUAviator

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If it’s a Bama chip with the typical pre loaded tunes it’s probably not doing much to benefit. I’m not so sure your engine setup really needs a custom tune anyway . A properly functioning Ford eec iv should handle your setup fine as long as the injectors and Maf match and the other important sensors are working.

Since the capacitors are failing the ECU needs service. Send it out and they’ll swap it for a refurbished one. I’ve done this with two of mine and they work great! Here’s the service I used.

Thanks for the insight into the chip. The one thing I know it does do is keep me from getting a ton of emissions codes from all the parts that have been deleted (some of which I don’t know if it’s important to the engine properly functioning)

As for the computer - I have an A9L but want to swap for an A9P since I have an AOD. With that link you sent, I know they normally repair what you send in, but can they swap out or redo mine for an A9P?