Unisteer Rack & Pinion

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by Stangninjak, Oct 17, 2006.

  1. Has someone confirmed that the rack comes with both sets of tie rod ends from Summit?

    The impression that I got from the sales guy and logically, you would only get one set of tie rod ends. If that is the case, it will most likely come with the standard tie rod ends and that would be the one from Summit, then the bushings will be needed to adapt to the Granada spindles.

    Otherwise, $40 for the bushings and the rack from summit at $575, or the rack direct from unisteer with the correct ends at $875...

  2. Mine definitely came with two sets of tie-rod ends...
  3. You're probably right (shipped with 1 set of tie rods from Summit). However, Steve at Unisteer clearly stated that kit was sold with 2 pairs from them.

    I've added the link to Jegs, showing kit components incl. 4 tie rods...


    Anyway, I'll bet that someone with a kit can straighten out this question mark. :nice:

    ...which was done by red65. Thanks... :D
  4. I got mine last week. It came w/ two sets of tie rod ends. It said one is for 6cyl cars and the other is for V8 cars. This was a kit for my '65 from summit. I have tri-y's so I'm kind of afraid to attempt installation. The other problem is I dont have a garage this winter, just a public storage unit, so I cannot tinker w/ it until the weather is nice.

  5. That is not good tie rod news... For me that is... Ordered one anyhow. Worst case, I will put it up for sale if it does not work out... Besides, I have an option if the tie rod ends do not work out.

  6. The way I understood it you could get the tie rods for 65-69.
    1970-73 or Granada depending on how you ordered.
    The 70-73 and the Granada should be the same, yes?? :shrug:
  7. My kit came with both sets of tie rod ends, so no problems in that area. I modified the steering column this afternoon, it was easy except for drilling the stainless steel joint. I called unisteer today about lowering the bracket that bolts to the frame and he said it would not cause any steering issues, but he could not tell me it was ok since that bracket serves as the crossmember. To clear the oil pan I need to drop it 1/2", I am thinking about welding some 1/2 stock to the bracket and then bolt it up. Does anyone have any ideas?
  8. I would dent or modify the pan.
  9. Yes the Granada spindles use the same size tie rod ends as the 70-73. I will let everone know when my rack show up what ships with the Summit version (6 cyl or 70-73 along with the 65-66 v8).

    Also during the wait, I am going to pick up a Flaming River box that Ronstang is letting me borrow to do a comparison test between a new FR box and the Unisteer rack. The FR box will go in the car first for a couple of weeks.

    The Unisteer rack is to ship 11/25 so it looks like I will be able to get the rack installed before the holidays and have a review up.

    Keep in mind my car may not be exactly like most of the 65-66's out there. My car's 347 is set back 1", running an alumimum "tee" sump cobra pan, Granada spindles and hooker comps (not the super comps).

    I am prepared for it not to fit, but I can fix that...

    Try raising the engine or raise the engine and lower the rack if needed. Just keep in mind other clearances. I would find a stock pan before I dug out the hammer.

  10. The problem with raising the engine is my kenne bell supercharger barely fits as it is. So that is not an option. Even if I drop the rack 1/2" I still will have to dent the pan a little. I am waiting for someone else to do the install to see if they have clearance problems.
  11. I am just waiting for my roller spring perches to arrive so I can do the whole thing in one shot. My kit came with two tie rods. My understanding was one is for 65's and the other for 67's ..

    Well I will take some pics as soon as I find out where the hell my dig cam went to !

  12. Were your two tie-rod sets for:

    # 6cyl & V8 cars,

    or were they for

    # 1965-69 V8 & 1970-73 V8 cars?
  13. Ok, The rack is in and working. Instead of dropping it and then denting the oil pan, I moved the rack to the drivers side by 3/4 of an inch. It can now be bolted up against the frame with no spacers and I have clearance with the pan.
    When I tried dropping it by 1/2" I had major binding issues with the u-joints because of extreme angles. So I hit up a long time hot rodder who builds cars and he suggested redrilling the bracket the rack mounts to and move the rack to the drivers side. The tie rods will make up the difference and everything fits great now and works great. I am waiting to here if anyone else is having the same issues. I intend to finish it up friday and be on the road late Friday or early Saturday and fill you in on how it drives.
  14. 68efisuper....you have just created a terrible bumpsteer situation in your car. It will be wrong on both sides and at the same time different on both sides. You need to recenter the rack and fix the clearance issues. Your method of install is not correct and no one should follow your lead. Sorry, not trying to be harsh but you cannot simply move a steering component to one side without creating all kinds of new problems. Dent or modify your oil pan. That is what I suggest.
  15. I see the problems that might arise, but there is no way I can modify the pan enough. I was told that given the distance to the tie rod, any effect would be little. we will see, I am going to hopefully be on the road by Saturday and if the bump steer is a problem I will figure a new solution. But I appreciate your input and I am hoping someone else gets this thing installed soon. I hate being the guinea pig.
  16. What is exactly the issue with the oil pan? Is it a cast aluminum Cobra one? If not then it can be modified. I would simply cut the pan until the rack fit and then fill the area with new sheet metal.
  17. 68 - are you using a stock pan?
  18. Yeah, you can take a piece of appropriate sized muffler pipe and notch the pans and weld it in. I've seen pans with a tube all the way thru and you had to take out the steering linkage to pull the pan. As long as it doesn't hit the crank or pickup, you shouldn't have a problem.

    You may end up with more problems than bumpsteer if you run it like that, unless that old hot rodder is going to fix your car for free after ruining, I mean running it like that.
  19. Do the geometry

    If you have a bumpsteer issue, and you have unequal length tie rods, it could cause a more pronounced effect. If however you do not have a bumpsteer issue, the unequal length of the tie rod may not affect bumpsteer.
    If it were me, I would take the appropriate measurements first. Find out if in fact the tie rods travels parallel through the arc of suspension travel, in relationship to the spindle arm.

    If these guys believe that every Mustang produced has equal length tie rods, then they are mistaken. Doesn't work that way in the real world.
    Do a mock-up and take some measurements. I've recorded less than 1/32" bumpsteer throughout the suspension travel with the tie rods more than 1/2" difference in length.

    I'd suggest you not take any of our word for it, and check it out for yourself, before hacking up a perfectly good oil pan.

    Good luck,
  20. Photos will help a bunch.

    Being an EFI engine out of a 92, I am wondering if you have some strange, non stock (for a 68) oil pan. If this is the case, I can understand your issue, but there is a solution for that and it is an easy one especially since you are having to remove the crossmember anyhow. Your solution may be to just put a stock pan and pickup on the engine.

    Once again, a picture is worth a thousand replies...