UPDATE: Running... But still suffering.

[daR4V3N]

Checked all sensors, hoses, timing, ect.

CAR IS RUNNING NOW. While it is drive-able, somehow its smoky now, like gasoline smoky still. And the car is running hella rich.

Not sure what to do from here. Car IS driveable. Is very lossy in the mid to high range power band tho.

Backfires and hesitates at med to full throttle.

Any suggestions?

To recap:
Most likely the actual cause of the initial problem was the valve cover gaskets and the rear of the lower intake.

Car runs OK now, is drive-able. Rich running and lossy as said above, but other than that... Were getting to the end of this adventure, and it makes me happy

 

[jrichker]

There is no clue as to the year of your car or mods. You could be driving a chevy for all we know...

That's why it is a good idea to use the sig under the user control panel (User CP) option. It allows you to post your car year & mods, which help greatly when troubleshooting things. No, it is not there for us to snoop and see any "Secrets" you have hidden away under the hood. Be a good stangnetter and update you sig for future reference & don't keep us guessing.

 

[daR4V3N]

Wow, yeah. That would be a wonderful idea Thanks. I'll get right on it!

There is no clue as to the year of your car or mods. You could be driving a chevy for all we know...

That's why it is a good idea to use the sig under the user control panel (User CP) option. It allows you to post your car year & mods, which help greatly when troubleshooting things. No, it is not there for us to snoop and see any "Secrets" you have hidden away under the hood. Be a good stangnetter and update you sig for future reference & don't keep us guessing.

 

[daR4V3N]

One click too many.

 

[daR4V3N]

Completed. Thank you.

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong… Codes can be present without setting the Check Engine Light.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.

WalMart may have the above LCD display scanner for less than $35.