Updated TCP G-Bar triangulated 4-link...
- Thread starter reenmachine
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Well, just like you leave room for the axle to move up when you go over, you leave room for the axle to droop when you go under. It looks a lot better than you think -- not way low or anything.
gonzothegreat
Member
gonzothegreat
Member
arrrrrrgh....I thought you were posting a useful link to a pic or something, but it looks like the forum now picks out words like exhaust and makes them links to sponsors' sites. That's going to get really annoying.
Let's see:
exhaust
engine
brakes
tires
wheels
wax
parts
steering
suspension
Let's see:
exhaust
engine
brakes
tires
wheels
wax
parts
steering
suspension
gonzothegreat
Member
Aussie Mike
New Member
Lol, I was thing the same thing, for example - if you were doing a head job on your engine.............
I've seen this on other forums. It seems to only links on words in the context of a sentence and not individual words.
gonzothegreat
Member
The Reactor Mustang has the old style g-Bar with the exhaust routed underneath the axle. It looks fine. I can not find any pictures (other than in the build book) that illustrate my point, but like anything else, if you find the right guy, and he does a GOOD job, it will be fine. Local turn and burn exhaust shop, maybe not so much.
Tim
Welded on the upper mount brackets for the G-link today. It is a little trickey getting them lined up and in place and it seems that not all 9" rear diffs are built quite the same. With the welding jig in place over the two studs on the rear axle, the brackets would not center on the rear housing. There are another two holes on the jig if you have an offset pinion, which my car, and most stock mustangs, does not have, but no matter what I did the brackets were off by a least a 1/4". After discussing this with Pete at reenmachine, he has noticed the same problem and the solution was to remove the two mounting studs on the rear axle that are used for the jig and center the brackets and clamp on the jig to weld. This is what I did and it worked well, but I think a better solution would be to have slotted holes in the jig that would allow you to center the brackets then tighten down the nuts on the stud to hold the jig in position. Anyway, the brackets are on, next comes a test fit and then it is off to blasting and powdercoat. Hope to have some pics some time in the future if I ever get the time to figure out how to post them up.
David.
David.
do you have an 8" rearend? i noticed that Pete was working on an 8" on the mustang he did as well. if that's the case then that's also the problem, the studs on the 8" are in a different location than the 9". just an educated guess but i'd be willing to bet that's the problem.
No, it is definately a 9", in fact I frist tried it on my Versailles 9" as that was the rear I was intending to use. I figured there was a difference in the Versailles unit so I tore my original 9" down and found it to be the same way. I decided to go with my original unit however because of the fact the Versailles has a much heavier housing and the upper arm brackets would need to extensively modified to work. It could be done, but I would just custom build some brackets rather than try to modify the supplied ones. Now I have to decide on rear brakes again, thought I had that covered with the Versailles discs. One thing after another.
David.
David.
the versailles housing is actually quite a bit stronger than the standard mustang housing too. i'd rethink the decision not to make some custom brackets for it myself. the versailles brakes work pretty well too, they may not be as good as some of the aftermarket brakes but on par with most conversions that use similar factory style parts. just .02
I will probably play around with custom fabbing some brackets for the Versailles rear but I have already sent the welding jig/fixture back to Pete, but now that I have one setup done and know what the jig looks like it shouldn't be to hard to rig something up. I agree that the Versailles rear is a stronger unit, but also a lot heavier. I don't know if the extra strength versus the extra weight is a reasonable tradeoff, but at least the extra weight is at the right end of the car. Anyway, it will have to wait for a few days as I am on the road spending some quality seat time in the Mack.
David.
gonzothegreat
Member
.
Psydwaze
Founding Member
To account for differences in the shape of various 9" center sections, step 10 of the weld jig instructions refers to grinding each bracket's base to best fit the axle tube. Slotting the fixture eliminates any accuracy it provides for correct placement of the brackets.
Weld Jig Instructions 370K PDF
If the accuracy's not there in the first place then the slotting won't hurt anything. I had the exact same locating experience with the original Mustang 9" housing I used (it wasn't just the 8" I used which I expected to be off).Slotting the fixture eliminates any accuracy it provides for correct placement of the brackets.
With slotted holes the fixture would still fulfill the crucial functions of setting the spacing between the brackets and the clocking. I don't think that trusting the user to center everything up would be a big risk.
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