upgrades for v6

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Hi There.

What are you looking for in the end?
Manual Trans or Automatic?

I have a 95 that I have basically brought UP to what you have stock in the actual Engine.
You can browse my build (in my signature) and most of what I did in the suspension can be done with yours also.
 
I am exploring the Pro Charger option for after I am use to this current change. The 00-04 are more durable I WOULD NEVER put a power adder on the 94-95 3.8L because of the plethora of issues that engine has.

Prior to Pro charging, I will be hitting up this site. http://www.supersixmotorsports.com/ Very good information for the V6, I will be grabbing a "Power Pack" and also going with forged internals. Once I am used to that change, then I will be looking at my options on the Procharger.

Budget is everything here and just taking the builds in stages will always keep you happy and the wallet semi-full

(I am Sneaking in a BMR Torque Bok Kit here in the Spring also, https://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMR-TBR004R, It will arrive End of Day Tuesday)
 
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Sorry, its an automatic, convertible. I would like to get a little more horsepower out of it, run smoother. I have had the car a long time, and I finally feel like I am ready to tackle doing engine upgrades ( within reason, i dont have a lift or engine hoist, so super big stuff is a no go)
 
If your not in love with the "Convertible" and have been weighing getting rid of it for a Coupe. Please Do before getting too far into the build. I am way too far in to do it now. i kind of wish that I left it alone and sold it to a teenager then bought a Coupe to build out. Just my Opinion though
 
On the lifting of the car. That can be done safely in stages and using Truck Jack Stands instead of normal car stands. I have had mine about 3 ft off the ground using Truck stands. Plenty of room to work under, you just have to be on a flat stable surface for that height. I was removing the Drive shaft and the car was moving some as I used a breaker bar to remove bolts.
 
GT and V6 both came with the single piston front caliper. If you move to the Cobra Caliper, Rotor, Pads on the front, then you will be looking to change the master Cylinder also but I think but am not sure if the Booster is the same on both.

Example: AutoZone Part Numbers

00 V6 and GT:
  1. Duralast / Brake Rotor - Front
    Part #:54011
  2. Duralast Gold / Brake Pads - Front
    Part #: DG804
  3. Duralast Gold / Brake Rotor - Rear
    Part #:54017DG
  4. Duralast Gold / Brake Pads - Rear
    Part #: DG627
  5. Duralast Bracketed / Brake Caliper - Front
    Part #:18-B4723 Left Side
  6. Duralast Bracketed / Brake Caliper - Front
    Part #:18-B4722 Right Side
  7. Duralast Bracketed / Brake Caliper - Rear
    Part #:18-B4545 Left Side
  8. Duralast Bracketed / Brake Caliper - Rear
    Part #:18-B4544 Right Side
  9. Duralast New / Master Cylinder (Brake System)
    Part #:NM4030 With Trac Control V6 only
  10. Duralast New / Master Cylinder (Brake System)
    Part #:NM4029 Without Trac Control V6 only
  11. Duralast New / Master Cylinder (Brake System)
    Part #:NM4032 With Trac COntrol V8 only
  12. Duralast New / Master Cylinder (Brake System)
    Part #:NM4031 Without Trac Control V8 only

00 SVT Cobra R:
  1. Duralast / Brake Rotor - Front
    Part #:54087
  2. Duralast Gold / Brake Pads - Front
    Part #: DG412
  3. Motorcraft / Brake Rotor - Rear
    Part #:BRRF224
  4. Duralast Gold / Brake Pads - Rear
    Part #: DG627
  5. Duralast UnBracketed / Brake Caliper - Front
    Part #:C464 Left
  6. Duralast UnBracketed / Brake Caliper - Front
    Part #:C465 Right
  7. Duralast Bracketed / Brake Caliper - Rear
    Part #:18-B4825A Left
  8. Duralast Bracketed / Brake Caliper - Rear
    Part #:18-B4824A Right
  9. Duralast New / Master Cylinder (Brake System)
    Part #:NM4032 With Trac Control
  10. Duralast New / Master Cylinder (Brake System)
    Part #:NM4031 Without Trac Control
 
Do you mean bigger brakes, or just better pads and rotors for the brakes you have?

well, For sure I need to replace my rotors/pads. Depending on cost, possibly upgrading to better/larger calipers. I have 17' rims on the car now, so I know I can go a bit bigger ( they are the ford racing bullitt rims) I am not racing the car, but it would be nice to have something a little better
 
GT and V6 both came with the single piston front caliper. If you move to the Cobra Caliper, Rotor, Pads on the front, then you will be looking to change the master Cylinder also but I think but am not sure if the Booster is the same on both.

Thanks, for the v6/GT options you listed, those calipers would not require any replacement of the master cylinder?

Also, how difficult is replacing the master cylinder? any special tools needed? I have only ever done rotors & pads...
 
The 99-04 Mustangs came with 2-piston front calipers. They were a step up from the single-piston calipers on the 94-98 models.

If you aren't racing the car, you really don't need to go to larger brakes. Just using good pads (Hawk HPS), and upgrading to braided stainless lines will improve braking feel and pedal feel. Those upgrades would be fine for daily driving.

But, many people choose to upgrade to OEM Cobra brakes, which will fit under MOST 17 inch rims. However, some Bullitt rims will NOT fit. OEM Bullitt rims should fit.

You do NOT need to change your master cylinder to upgrade to OEM 94-04 Cobra brakes. I run OEM Cobra brakes on my 2004 V6 autocross car and it has the OEM master cylinder.

Cross-drilled and slotted rotors won't provide any benefit for street driving. I'd suggest getting a good set of regular rotors with a coating that keeps them from rusting.
 
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Yes, the V8 and Cobra of this year have the same Master Cylinder where the V6 has a different one. Makes no sense to me with the Calipers, rotors, pads being the same on both.

If you are going to upgrade to the Cobra Parts, you MUST change the Master Cylinder also