Upgrading clutch and oil leaked from tranny...how do I add oil? + other ?'s

[Scot_94GT]

Ok...So I am in the process of replacing the throwout bearing in my 94 GT, and when I pulled the driveshaft out of the tranny, it spilled a little oil out of it. I put some saran wrap and a rubber band around the end to prevent more spillage, but I figure I should add some to top it off again...or just change the oil completely. Where exactly do I drain and add oil?

On a side note, as long as I have the tranny pulled, I am going to upgrade the clutch. I think I am going to buy the FMS King Cobra clutch since it is only about $200 and includes the throwout bearing in the kit. I had also considered the Centerforce kit, but it is $350, plus you have to buy their TO bearing for another $35. I highly doubt I will ever be making more than 400rwhp with this car, so will the FMS clutch be just fine? Also, for people who have either clutch: How is the pedal pressure compared to stock? THe stock pedal pressure already is pretty heavy, so I'm worried that it will be even worse with an upgraded unit.

One more question:
While I'm at it, I think I'm going to install some headers. I'm pretty much set on BBK full length headers with the BBK catted H-pipe (just in case some anal retentive cop decides to look underneath my car). My questions is: Do the BBK headers have holes in them for the O2 sensos? Also, is there a hole for the EGR plumbing? And if so, does the stock EGR pipe fit to it correctly, or does it require some bending? (I ask because it is a hard pipe, not a flexible one.)

Thanks,

 

[RIO5.0]

I forget the exact locations but there are 3/8 drive plugs top and the bottom drain....just empty and then fill from the top plug, when it flows out the hole your filling...she's good to go...
Odds are you didnt lose alot....I did replace my fluid tho...Its cheap to do, especially if its the original stuff...
i installed a FRPP HD kit # M7560-A302 for a bud...was the full kit also...had a nice pedal feel to it...not stiff..Thats the kit I plan on using when its time...

replace your pilot shaft bearing while your there...scope out the rear main to..if its leaking its the perfect time to do it up while apart....

 

[Scot_94GT]

I forget the exact locations but there are 3/8 drive plugs top and the bottom drain....just empty and then fill from the top plug, when it flows out the hole your filling...she's good to go...
Odds are you didnt lose alot....I did replace my fluid tho...Its cheap to do, especially if its the original stuff...
i installed a FRPP HD kit # M7560-A302 for a bud...was the full kit also...had a nice pedal feel to it...not stiff..Thats the kit I plan on using when its time...

replace your pilot shaft bearing while your there...scope out the rear main to..if its leaking its the perfect time to do it up while apart....

Good point...I think I will maybe replace my rear main seal. There is usually a drop of oil under my car after I park it, and it liiks to be coming from the back of the oil pan. Are rear main seals very hard to install? What all does that involve....just taking off the oil pan? Too bad I already have the tranny off and the engine supported on wood blocks underneatht the oil pan....hmm...maybe I'll have to support the engine from above somehow. I don't have an engine hoist..any suggestions?

 

[RIO5.0]

You dont need to remove the pan....Its a one pc seal....bout 3" in diameter....You need to use a putty knife or thin edge screwdriver to slide under the edge GENTLY...go slowly around like 12-3-6-9 oclock sneaking it out....Dont pry around the crank or inner portion...dont wanna score up the crank surfaces..clean up around it and re-assy is the same...tap around evenly to seat it in...

 

[Scot_94GT]

I see...so I gotta take the flywheel off in order to remove the seal? Can I take the seal out without drainig the engine oil without making a huge mess? I ask becasue draining the oil will be pretty tricky since I have wood blocks under the oilpan, right near the oil drain plug, supporting the eninge from tipping over...so I'd rather not drain the oil if I don't have to.

Thanks for hte help so far. This whole process is kinda scary and exciting for me, since it's the first time I've ever had my car apart farther than just replaceing brake pads.

 

[BBrinks]

I just changed my stocker to the FMS HD too, about a week ago. The feel is nice, not much stiffer, if any, than stock. You'd be better off draining the oil when you change the rear main. If you have someone else to help you, you could always just lift the engine by hand from underneath, just enough to move the block out of the way from the plug. It's easy to change, but like RIO said, you have to be careful not to score the surface. I drilled two small holes in the seal at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions, right in the middle of the seal, and put in a couple of small screws to pull it out. If you decide to do it that way, just be extremely careful when you're drilling, because the bit tends to slip a little bit until it starts getting through the metal in the seal.
Putting it in is easy, I went to home depot and got a 4" PVC pipe plug, that fit perfectly. One end was closed and had a little square peg on top that we tapped on to put in the seal evenly. The other end was open and just cleared the crank.
While you're at it, check the bearing retainer on the end of the trans, to make sure it's not scored by the old TO bearing. The stock one is aluminum, and they can get scored up pretty badly. The new design is steel and will hold up a lot better.

 

[Scot_94GT]

Hey RIO5.0, I can't quite tell from your avatar pic, but is that the Saleen S281 wing on oyur car? I was considering changing to some sort of "lip" type spoiler, and the one in your pic looks kinda like it.

 

[RIO5.0]

Yup...Its a S281...