Fox upper control arms

[trebor3170]

Steeda control arms use a 3 piece bushing, with a hard center section, and softer outer sections that do allow articulation.
Right from the web site:

• Hard bushing centers control the axle for maximum traction and handling
• Softer outer bushings edges won't squeak or bind
• Won't damage torque boxes like other arms with solid bushings

MM and J&M also use the same concept

 

[ppost]

I don't care if it's 99 vs 1. It's a plain fact that a suspension must have some compliance for articulation. BlownGT
s solution from BMR uses factory upper bushings. This will have compliance for articulation. As for your STeeda arms being strong. Yes, they are strong so the tilt will NOT happen in the arm. It will either happen at the bushing or if the bushing is strong enough, like most poly, it will FORCE the mount to articulate. This is when the mount cracks, breaks off the car or the bolt hole goes oval.

If you are having trouble understanding this. Think of a ladder bar car. They have zero compliance for articulation. Just like a door. You move the top, the bottom moves with it. On a ladderbar car, you move the right, the left must move too.

 

[ThinBlue502]

I’ve enjoyed the many perspectives on this thread. I’ll add my $0.02...

I have J&M upper and lower rear control arms with the “poly-sphere” bushings. I also have *GHASP* poly axle bushings too. I know, the terror is palpable. The axle bushings are the softer of the 2 choices available from energy suspension.

I drive my car very spiritedly at times. I enjoy twisty stuff and push the limits pretty regularly. I have not been to the track, and I don’t launch the car from a stop, either.

That being said, I haven’t experienced any “snap oversteer” with this setup. The car is predictable to track through the pendulum that is a well drifted corner, just don’t lift. I made sure to use extra marine grade grease on the mounting points during install. Also FWIW, my car doesn’t see a ton of miles, but she’s no trailer queen, either.