used engine block questions....

VoODoo5Oh

Founding Member
Oct 14, 2000
335
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0
miami fl
i am looking for a good used engine block....how much money am i looking at spending? i have seen blocks for sale at mustang parts specialties for $150 plus shipping...is that too much money? do they check the blocks (magnaflux...etc..etc)?? any other good suppliers i could check with? should i just get a new block? how much do those run for? thanks in advance :)
 
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well...i was planning to make a stroker out of it...so machine work is inevitable...i dont want to use my block b/c then i wont have a car :) and jegs sells a new one for $800+ .....i will try locally like you suggested but i dont really trust most people around here....i can spot obvious damage but i would like to buy to buy a guranteed & checked used block you know what i mean? thanks for the advice....
 
the one on jegs it $800+ cuz it can handle alot more hp, the stock block is preferable only good to about 500hp.....if ur makeing a mean maching get the sportsman block from jegs.
 
i see...i remeber a while back summit selling ford blocks for i think $250 but that was a while ago and im not sure they still have that special....im looking to make about 450 rwhp and im good to go...am i ok using the stock block? im a first time engine builder and i would like to have to build things only once if you know what i mean....i appreciate your input...i have a gazzilion more questions coming but i thought i would start with the block first....i really appreciate your help guys...thanks
 
thats what ive been have taught...thats why im trying to find a good used one....but if i get a new one for a price in the same ball park id more likely go with that for piece of mind knowing that the block is no doubt good....
 
Even if you go with a new block you should be aware that they are not always perfect. I'm building a new 302 with a new block and crank FMS# M-6009-M5X and the crank spun fine until the bearings came back from coating. A local engine builder that I really trust measured the mains and found that the overall size of the mains was not all equal and were not even equal from one side of the main cap to the other. Some of there were actually tapered. So the .0005 that the coating added to the bearings was enough to seize up the crank. A line hone will solve the problem, but you should be aware that even though it is brand new it's not always perfect.

-Craig