Used Vortec Questions

[ntstock93]

I have an 03 GT and may have a good deal on a used vortec supercharger. I also may be able to remove it from the wrecked 03 Gt it is coming off of.
My engine internals are stock so I wont be looking to go over 400 or so rwhp.
The car has bolt ons but still needs help in the hp department.
I read through Vortecs instruction manual and they say to send in the computer to them.
Do I need to do that or can I take it to have it dyno tuned?
Do I need a bigger Mass air sensor?
I have the accufab 75mm and plenum, will these work?
Can I use a bap instead of swapping out fuel pump?
Do I need to change fuel injectors?
Anything else im missing?

 

[musclemustangcb]

Well I've got a lot of answers to your questions. Text me. I just did a vortech setup on my 00 roush. I made 530rwhp Monday when I got it tuned. 2072147386

 

[Deleted member 38176]

I read through Vortecs instruction manual and they say to send in the computer to them

The tunes that Vortech/Procharger/KB/etc provide with their kits are basic tunes to get the car to just run correctly. A dyno tune is ALWAYS that best option for FI cars. If there is a reputable dyno-tuner in your area who knows what they're doing with Mustangs then have them do it. Otherwise, Vortech is usually pretty damn quick in turnaround on the computers.

Anything else im missing?

You haven't mentioned anything about an intercooler. Please don't tell me that you're going non-intercooled

Do I need a bigger Mass air sensor?

It isn't "required", but it is definitely a good idea. A draw-though MAF (MAF is mounted BEFORE the supercharger) is ok for a non-intercooled setup. However, a blow-through MAF is needed for an intercooled setup (MAF mounted AFTER the supercharger and intercooler, just in front of the TB). If you're going non-intercooled, a Lightning 90mm MAF is the popular choice. If your going intercooled, the SCT blow-thru MAF is good.

I have the accufab 75mm and plenum, will these work?

Yes.

Can I use a bap instead of swapping out fuel pump?

As long as you're not going over 400rwhp or so, a BAP should be adequate with your stock pump. However, keep in mind that the cost of a BAP is pretty similar to that of an upgraded 255+lph fuel pump......and there is going to be a lot more potential and reliability in the upgraded pump over the BAP.

Do I need to change fuel injectors?

Absolutely. Nothing less than 39#

 

[ntstock93]

Thanks for the reply.
Yes there is a intercooler I will be taking when I get the charger.
I will need #42 injectors, 255 fuel pump and blow through maf.
I have a hand held tuner. Is it possible to get a "safe" tune installed on it so I can drive the car to a tuner to get dyno tuned?
With the bolt ons I have now i should get almost 400 to the wheels?

I found this video. Looks pretty simple.

 

[Deleted member 38176]

I have a hand held tuner. Is it possible to get a "safe" tune installed on it so I can drive the car to a tuner to get dyno tuned? With the bolt ons I have now i should get almost 400 to the wheels?

You would have to contact a tuner like Brenspeed, VMP, etc and have them e-mail you a base supercharged tune. With your mods, you should certainly see close to 400rwhp @ 8psi. You could even get a larger pulley to lower the boost a bit and keep the motor safe.

 

[ntstock93]

How much do they usually charge for an e-mail tune?

 

[ntstock93]

The kit im looking at has the air to air intercooller with all the piping. Whats the difference with the other intercooller that uses water and the heat exchanger?

 

[hotpony]

There's a lot to be said about efficiency of Air/Air or Air/Water cooler systems, most swear by intercooler (A/A), however, Vortech designed the Power Cooler (A/W) to work with this system and is very easy to install, I just got done doing one and it only takes a few hours, lowered charge temps from 160-170 to 80-90 degrees F. Either one will lower the charge temps, which is much needed to keep a safe engine and avoid detonation while making maximum power, when charge temps climb, the engine will automatically pull timing to keep combustion temps down.

It sounds to me like you will have all the A/A components if you're pulling it from a car that it's already installed in, however, make sure none of the piping or the cooler itself is damaged from the wreck, you can pressure check the components with a handheld vacuum tester and some creative thinking.

BAP will be fine and I wouldn't worry at all about the reliability of it, it is said to actually increase reliability of the fuel pump. Once you get it tuned, the tuner will tell you what you need to do to make more power.

You may also want to think about taking the ECU from the wrecked car, it should have the tune already in there for that setup. FYI.

 

[ntstock93]

I've been looking at the power cooler. It seems so simple compared to the a/a cooler.
I was originally getting a kenne bell 2.1 but this vortech popped up and its a price I can't refuse.
The kb uses a similiar cooling method as the power cooler and a bap and they seem to work good.
Do most keep the vortech heat exchanger or do they try to find a bigger one?

 

[Deleted member 38176]

An air/water IC can get heat soaked pretty easily, especially if you live in a warm/hot climate. It uses water to cool the intake air and I'm sure you can imagine that being under the hood, the water warms up quickly. Warmer water doesn't cool the intake air as efficiently as an air/air IC and you're going to start losing power.

 

[joshjwc9]

You do not need to run a A2A intercooler or one by any means. But if you have the opportunity to just do it. I figured I won't simply because mine is a DD and hasn't seen a track day yet because of my hectic work schedule. Also, I have the stock motor with alot (152k) miles and there is no need to spend the extra money on those parts as I bought an non intercooled kit to begin with. If I turn up the boost I didn't want to risk it so I got a super-safe tune as well.

But, if you surely want to hit 400rwhp and reduce the odds that it'll see detonation go with it as long as funds and your needs/wants fit in.

 

[ntstock93]

So the air/water uses actual water? I figured it would use some sort of anti-freeze. Ill pass on that.

Next question, do I absolutley have to custom cut the front pumper support to fit the a/a cooler? Is there a manufacturer that sells a bolt in kit with no cutting? I drive the family around in this car and its not a daily driver.

 

[joshjwc9]

Yes, the air to water uses some sort of coolant to reduce the intake temperatures. The only downside is there may be trimming involved, or to custom fab some mounts that use existing holes in the support. Hopefully someone will chime in who has an A2A intercooler or has some experience.

 

[ntstock93]

I found some write ups online where the bumper support wasn't touched. A2A seems most efficient.

I'm well aware that I will become addicted to the power and will definitely need a forged engine. Can I just get the 60lb injectors when i put the charger in and be ready for more hp?

 

[ntstock93]

The vortech builds boost as rpms climb.
What rpm does it stop making boost?
If a car has a forged bottom end, can it rev to 6500+rpms and still make power?
Lets say a car has the vortech and makes 400hp at 6000rpms what would it make at 6500 or 7000?

 

[joshjwc9]

I found some write ups online where the bumper support wasn't touched. A2A seems most efficient.

I'm well aware that I will become addicted to the power and will definitely need a forged engine. Can I just get the 60lb injectors when i put the charger in and be ready for more hp?

Yes you can spend the money on the 60lbers now if you know you'll want to go bigger and better in the future. But 36's and up will offer more than enough fuel for the stock bottom end. But, you'll definitely want to think about twin fuel pumps if your going big power.

 

[joshjwc9]

The vortech builds boost as rpms climb.
What rpm does it stop making boost?
If a car has a forged bottom end, can it rev to 6500+rpms and still make power?
Lets say a car has the vortech and makes 400hp at 6000rpms what would it make at 6500 or 7000?

It doesn't stop making boost but its efficiency isn't quite as good out of a stock V2 S trim vs. a V1 T trim. But, with enough pulley a S trim can put down numbers in the high 500's and T's can do 600's, your YSI will do much more than that but sounds like a jet engine at idle..

It might do anywhere from 400 to 450 depending on the other mods. Your pulley and other bolt ons depend as well. You will want cams to really let that engine be even more efficient.

 

[ntstock93]

Will cams take away from idle to 3000 rpms? Which cams are prefered for stock heads and centri charger?

 

[joshjwc9]

Will cams take away from idle to 3000 rpms? Which cams are prefered for stock heads and centri charger?

Depends on the grind you get..a stage 1 or 2 for instance will give no to small gains in out of boost situations but really allow the engine to let more air into the motor..A stage 2.5 or higher will give a much larger gain, but only when the centri is really spinning and in boost. MHS and CMS sell very good camshafts and can custom grind anything for any specific combination your car has to offer.

 

[Winters98GT]

Will cams take away from idle to 3000 rpms? Which cams are prefered for stock heads and centri charger?

Don't waste your time with changing cams for a stock motor on a budget. Stage 1, Stage 2, etc, is all relative and a bunch of waste of time, and gererally tuners advertising their own cams for profit. I never, ever will go with a (stage this or that cam), just dumb, I learned to spec my own cam with relative ease, and ended up setting and ET/MPH record with little knowledge of cam grinds just by my own track experience, and learning about what they do. Custom cams cost no more, and even sometimes less than shops pushing their "name cams".

I would highly advise that you use an a intercooler. The Vortech aftercooler is not worth it. I've watched issues with heat soak, etc with it.

100% meth injection is your best friend for a centri kit. Nothing has been proven to provide the benefits of cooling the IAT's and adding extra octane. 50/50 is for diesel motors. Run strait meth and crack 400rwhp with ease. Should add an extra 50rwhp, easily. Speed density the car to pull timing if the meth fails. Set a single M15 or dual nozzle, turn the MAF off and plug in an IAT after the meth a ways backs and as close to the TB. Not as accurate as a reading after the TB, but it will work well. You will make more power this way than adding a set of cams, and have the ability for the tune to pull timing in the worse case if your fuel pump/meth fails.