V1-SC Install but no boost!

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by manny, Jun 26, 2006.

  1. Yep, this is one of the few cases where tighter is not always better.
  2. canister purge line is closed by the canister purge solenoid until the ecm tells the solenoid to open. This is usually at cruise
  3. So would this be a bad source for running a boost line? Would the FMU line would be a more optimal place since it's always in closed loop just like the EGR and Fuel Pressure Regulator?

  4. I'll try it when I get home and see how that works thanks
  5. when cruiseing I see the vac at 16 and when I just put my foot in it more it go's to 0.

    and going to 3,500rpm I thought it was 2,500rpm
  6. What rpm did you reach?
  7. also now puting in the FMU line wont it only see the boost the supercharger is making or will it see the boost going in the motor
  8. maby 3,300rpm
  9. that's why. Get up past 3,500 and you will see something happen.
  10. Not sure, but either way it's the same amount your FMU is seeing so it's gotta reflect somewhat what the motor is seeing.
  11. hey man thanks for the help
  12. yep. Enjoy the boost! :nice:
  13. hey Blk91stang I got ask you cause I saw a old pic of your motor I see that you have a power pip did you notice a diffrence with it and where can I get one[​IMG][/IMG]
  14. I got mine from uprproducts.com for $99 when they first came out. I see they went to $130 but have heard if you shop around 5.0 Magazine and MM&FF you can find it for $99 still.

    This is what I went through.

    -Stock motor/SC-Trim setup = 4psi

    -Stock motor/SC-Trim with 2.89" supercharger pulley = 5psi

    -Ported Heads, Intake, 80mm Pro-M meter, UPR powerpipe with SAME pulley = 10psi.

    This leads me to believe the power pipe and 80mm mass air meter made a HUGE difference in cfm flow from the supercharger. I recommend it!! (I would get bigger injectors and a bypass valve though so it's not as easy as bolting it on) Well it is but the increase in horsepower might overpower your fuel system..

    ahh I hope I confused you on that last part.. :p
  15. Blak91 - please please put that a/c line under the discharge tube ... I beg of you. :D
  16. na just had to say look sweet now I heard some people go with a 75 or 80mm mass air meter what will I have to change TB and mass air meter or do I need 24 pounders
  17. :lol:

    I since have taken your advise and installed the a/c line under the discharge tube (Was easier to do than I thought :bang: ). I would take a new pic but (once again) my motor is torn down to the shortblock awaiting a 331 from Rick :banana:
  18. Depends on your plans with the motor. If you plan on doing heads and an intake in the future, you should go with 42#'ers right now and a 80mm Pro-M meter. If not, I'm sure you can get 24's or 30's. It's just a pain to recalibrate your meter if you ever want to upgrade to larger injectors so I like to do it once and leave a little room to grow.

    All you need is a new Mass Air Meter and Injectors. Also if you haven't already, get yourself a 255lph "High Pressure" In-tank fuel pump. It's also called a GSS340.
  19. I got another motor siting here,I got big plans for it like trick flow heads maby spyider or bbk intake a E-303 cam a nice strong bottem end I love to stroke it but its my daly driver and dont want it to over heat and maby up the boost
  20. So your new motor is getting boosted with the Sc-Trim?