Vaccume Line and EGR Question

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by 1105, Jan 14, 2004.

  1. I have a vaccume line running from my intake to my EGR right now. Now my dad said that the original vaccume line is actuated by a sylonid (sp?) that will open and close the vaccume, is this true? Will I have any problems with how I have it setup right now like running lean at idle?
  2. ttt

    anyone know?
  3. Yes you will have some problems... because the EGR will always be open... not fluctuating (Sp) like it should.... The solenoid is definetly needed.. When I did my swap I did what you did... but then had problems... then I hooked it up to the solenoids and it worked great..
  4. Thanks :flag: Do I need both the red and green lines hooked up or can I get away with just having the green one hooked up to the EGR?
  5. you need both... red going to the intake green going to EGR...
  6. ok, I wasnt sure if the red was still needed
  7. red is source vacumm, and green is controlled
  8. i just capped all of that and i didn't have any problems. i capped the two spots near the tb, plugged the pipe going to back of heads and then plugged the four lines coming out of then fender.

    i had no problems, but do you think this is hurting me in any way???
  9. those vacuum lines are running to your TAB/TAD solinoids in the inner fender.

    I imgine these are for controlling airflow to the cats? Somthing to do with the cats, and the smog pump. TAD( thermactor air divertor) TAB ( thermactor air bypass)

    Since you've deleted both, I dont see a need for the TAB/TAD solinoids. I never ran them.. just plugged the lines, and stuffed them into the inner fender. Ran a since vacuum line to the Fuel regulator, and another single vacuum line to the EGR.
  10. If you guys get away with that go for it... my car would backfire and run rough and through an EGR code... Since the EVR which is one of the solenoids in the fenderwell controls the EGR..
  11. SorsCode is right. The EVR solenoid has to control EGR valve vacuum.

    The EGR valve needs to see zero vacuum at idle, zero vacuum at WOT, and controlled partial vacuum in between.

    The only way to get that is to have the EVR (EGR Valve Regulator) inside the passenger side fenderwell controlling the vacuum to the EGR valve. The PCM computer(power train control module) tells the EVR what amount of vacuum the EGR valve should receive based on continuously varying engine operating conditions.

    PS) OK, what's up with the link to a used engine sales web site on the word "engine" in my last sentence?!?!? I did NOT put that link in there!
  12. yeah i am really confused now. can you put that in dummy terms along with the colors of the lines you are talking about. also, is it allright to remove the egr or not. i have heard both.

    all that i know is that i removed a vac line harness that consisted of red, green and peach. then i removed the pump and the whole hose that goes from the pump to the heads. there were also two solinoids (if thats what they are called) on that hose. then i capped everything that i removed something from. which was (i believe): two vac ports near the tb, the pipe con. to the heads, and the four vac lines in the fender. also, i do have a check engine light, but this happens to most of the people i have seen execpt for a few. i haven't ever found a reason for that either.

    thanks for any help.
  13. just take the entire egr out and chuck it in the trash. as far as the check engine light goes, just rig the sensor so that the pin is half in. you will never see your cel if the pin is set right. when joe signs on, maybe he can post a pic of what im talking about since he has my sensor now. ;)
  14. yeah, a pic might be better. i don't know where that sensor is.

    so you are saying, just rip the egr out? i have heard that some people run into problems with this??????????????????????????????????

  15. i had no part throttle driveability issues when i pulled mine out. i capped the header and the intake, capped those 2 vacuum lines, and removed the sensor from the valve itself. i used a tiny hobby screw to hold the pin in the sensor halfway down and left the sensor plugged in. its kind of hard to explain. hopefully joe will be here soon to post a pic.
  16. I put on a set of 87-93 headers for my 95 GT and removed my smog pump (capped two vacuum lines and pipe going to heads/x pipe). I also made a plate between the egr and the intake, and was having engine running problems, (car kept saying o2 indicates lean, 172 code) so I put the old exhaust manifold back on and attached the egr, now a week later it is having a 181 code,.... The intake now backfires/pops during acceleration under lower rpm's/ heavy load. What did I do wrong here?? or is this just from an exhaust leak that I don't know about?