- Oct 26, 2017
- 29
- 4
- 13
**EDIT WONT LET ME CHANGE THE TOPIC. I LEFT OUT SEAL. I WANT TO CHANGE THE VALVE STEM SEALS**
Well I have noticed oil burning when idling for long periods of time, long sits at lights, only when hot etc. If I hammer it down and drive the "blue cloud" clears up and im good until I idle again for a bit. The driver side head had a valve job done by the previous owner when he had a spark plug eject on that side (he replaced the head) so Im assuming those seals are good still. I am also assuming I only have to replace the passenger side valve stem seals. My computer throws a code on the passenger side (Bank 1 Sensor 1) for it being lean. From some other posts I read that too is a symptom. Also the bulk of the smoke seems to come out the passenger side tailpipe. I also pulled the PVC and let it idle for a while too. Same issue with the blue smoke.
I have bought the OTC 7928 Ford valve spring compressor to do this job. The motor will be in the car for this because I have no way of taking it out of the car. Has anyone done this before with the motor in the car and the cam still in the head? If so have any valuable tips? It seems like, just from staring at my motor with the valve covers on, that its going to be tricky once I get near the #2 and #3 cylinders because of the tower being there.
My plan is to crank each piston to TDC before I start on the corresponding valves so the valve has no way of falling through. This would mean I dont have to worry about compressed air tools, rope etc. Would this be a fair assumption?
CAR:
1999 Mustang GT with 2001 Mustang GT motor (Romeo)
very lightly modified. (CAI, Underdrive pulley, 75mm upper intake and TB, new ford Lower intake, EGR delete)
93 octane tune from Bama.
So in a nutshell:
Doing the work:
1. Anyone done this before with the motor still in the car and have any tips?
2. Does my piston TDC positioning idea make sense and will work?
3. #2 and #3 cylinders going to be an issue with the tool mentioned?
4. How long does this normally take to do?
Saying skip it and not doing the work:
1. Will this type of leak cause any other issues or bring on more serious issues if left alone?
2. Would you recommend just dealing with the occasional smoke issue instead of fixing it?
3. I have a 93 Octane tune. Will leaving this alone cause any timing or predetonation issues?
Well I have noticed oil burning when idling for long periods of time, long sits at lights, only when hot etc. If I hammer it down and drive the "blue cloud" clears up and im good until I idle again for a bit. The driver side head had a valve job done by the previous owner when he had a spark plug eject on that side (he replaced the head) so Im assuming those seals are good still. I am also assuming I only have to replace the passenger side valve stem seals. My computer throws a code on the passenger side (Bank 1 Sensor 1) for it being lean. From some other posts I read that too is a symptom. Also the bulk of the smoke seems to come out the passenger side tailpipe. I also pulled the PVC and let it idle for a while too. Same issue with the blue smoke.
I have bought the OTC 7928 Ford valve spring compressor to do this job. The motor will be in the car for this because I have no way of taking it out of the car. Has anyone done this before with the motor in the car and the cam still in the head? If so have any valuable tips? It seems like, just from staring at my motor with the valve covers on, that its going to be tricky once I get near the #2 and #3 cylinders because of the tower being there.
My plan is to crank each piston to TDC before I start on the corresponding valves so the valve has no way of falling through. This would mean I dont have to worry about compressed air tools, rope etc. Would this be a fair assumption?
CAR:
1999 Mustang GT with 2001 Mustang GT motor (Romeo)
very lightly modified. (CAI, Underdrive pulley, 75mm upper intake and TB, new ford Lower intake, EGR delete)
93 octane tune from Bama.
So in a nutshell:
Doing the work:
1. Anyone done this before with the motor still in the car and have any tips?
2. Does my piston TDC positioning idea make sense and will work?
3. #2 and #3 cylinders going to be an issue with the tool mentioned?
4. How long does this normally take to do?
Saying skip it and not doing the work:
1. Will this type of leak cause any other issues or bring on more serious issues if left alone?
2. Would you recommend just dealing with the occasional smoke issue instead of fixing it?
3. I have a 93 Octane tune. Will leaving this alone cause any timing or predetonation issues?