Vapor purge solenoid help!!!

Gutierrezd4061

New Member
Mar 21, 2020
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Cali
Hi so I have a 2000 mustang gt automatic. Vehicle has been running great but recentley got a check engine light for a evap leak. The leak has been (Small leak) but recentley when I scanned it said (large leak). I ordered a canister solenoid and decided to replace it. It was a very simple replacement took the left rear tire off unbolted charcoal canister and slid it out and replaced solenoid. Put it back together now vehicle is running with lack of power. The car will rev up to like 4000 rpms to shift. And will barely move. I put the old one back on and its still doing it!! I dont know what I could of done wrong the install was so simple took me about 10 min. Now my car isnt running right and cant figure out what happend. Any help will be appreciated. If any has a picture of there canister that could help to see the hoses if I mixed something up or something. Please help
 
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+1 on performing a through visual check.

To me it would be important to know IF the reason for the poor running is related to the EVAP system or not.. How to tell? Looking at the Short Term Fuel trims (STFT) and Long Term Fuel Trims (LTFT). Pinch off the EVAP line at the throttle body. Do the STFT's change? If so you can conclude that there is some air entering via EVAP system.

Should it turn out that there is air is passing through the EVAP vacuum lines It would also be handy to know if the poor running might be related to the operational state of the EVAP system. IE is the EVAP system purging or not.

Do you have an ODB2 scanner?

ForScan ODB2 scanner w ELM327 USB
 
I had reset the check engine light before completing the work. I have just a cheap obd2 scanner so I'm not sure I can check the fuel trims on that? I could try blocking that line and see if it changes anything while driving?
 
So I hook up the old solenoid with the boot from the new one and it started driving better. It felt normal just at wot it felt a little bit slower. I couldnt get the tires to chirp at all. I drove it pretty hard and my o/d light started blinking. Now my vehicle in the highway will kick on and off from overdrive. If I turn the overdrive off it will drive fine. I havent got the transmission code scanned because most shops down here are closed. Any ideas on what it could be?
 
You were given the link for a very high powered ODB2 scanner that only costs $30! Why guess? Test!

OBTW, A generic ODB2 reader would also give you most of the PID's that could help with trouble shooting. Many are very affordable. Do your homework.

Otherwise you are just guessing hoping to stumble onto a solution.
 
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I have ordered that scanner. But it wont be here untill 2 days from now. I have to go back to work by the end of this month. Really considering picking up a used transmission at the junkyard considering the o/d light is blinking and its shifting out of overdrive. I believe I might have busted the transmission driving it hard like that on my test drive. Is it possible to just replace the overdrive solenoid and replace it without pulling trans? Would a used solenoid work? I'm going to go to have the transmission code read at a shop so I wont have to wait for amazon to deliver mine. Does messing with evap have any effect on transmission
 
So I took it to a shop today they said the only code the transmission through out was the temperature sensor. The tech believes the transmission overheated from running it hard. My next approach is buying a trans cooler and doing the service on transmission. Today when I drove it it drove fine and perfect. Why would the trans heat up like that when it's so cold outside. You guys think a trans cooler will help. I like to drive it hard