vibration troubles!!!!!

89fiveohman

89fiveohman

New Member
Feb 23, 2004
19
0
0
western north carolina
#1
hello fellow stang2ers i have a problem with a vibration in a 78. i have a 89 302 in it out of another mustang of mine.i have an 85 model t-5 out of a 5.0 capri my wife and i had in it. i had the original 8'' axels drilled to 5 lug thought that my be the problem so i found a maverick 8'' put it, in same thing, had a new driveshaft made even a new slip yoke on it ,same vibration. i tried a friends t-5 one evening ,same thing you can take the wheels off with the car on jackstands go through the gears still vibrates. i had a 4.11 with mini spool chunk in the rear swapped it out for another identical setup i had in another stang2 i have .same vibration, so i swapped in the original 3.00 with open diff. the vibration is not as harsh but is deffinitly still there you can notice it more in 1-3 gears now and i have noticed that the vibration comes in around 2500 rpm which would make most of you say its in the motor myself included, but with the car on jackstands you can go through the gears up to 5th gear , and peg the speedometer to about 120mph let off the gas quickly take it out of gear and kill the motor, the thing vibrates the whole car till the speedo comes back down to about 45-50 .i dont know what else to do to the thing i have spent over a year trying to solve this problem to no avail its time for some help or im gonna have to park it. any questions or comments would be greatly appreciated! thanks mike d.
 

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#4
i would say you could probably see the vibration going that fast on blocks.
something has got to be jumping up and down ?
what are you using for a transmission crossmember, have you adjusted the angle?
sounds like the driveshaft is out of alignment to the rear end..
you either have the crossmember to high or pitched to one side..
try pulling the driveshaft out and run the car through the gears...that will tell you
whether its motor/ tranny or driveshaft/ rear end...:nice:
 
#5
:flag:
2muchtime said:
i would say you could probably see the vibration going that fast on blocks.
something has got to be jumping up and down ?
what are you using for a transmission crossmember, have you adjusted the angle?
sounds like the driveshaft is out of alignment to the rear end..
you either have the crossmember to high or pitched to one side..
try pulling the driveshaft out and run the car through the gears...that will tell you
whether its motor/ tranny or driveshaft/ rear end...:nice:
Click to expand...
how much out of alignment is allowable?
i recently put a new tranny mount in it it seemed to make the vibration a little worse the old mount was collapsed so the new one was about 3/8-1/2 inch taller with the weight of the tranny on it. after i realized this i decided to remake the crossmember i was currently using a 6cyl, crossmember but i had made new slots in it to make it work, anyway,i cut the crossmember up used the ends of it and used some flat bar cut some slots in it for the mount before i welded the crossmember up i noticed that the transmission tailshaft seems to sit off to the passenger side a little more so i checked the motor to make sure it was sitting in the engine bay square,and the motor mounts were on the right sides and everything was so i loosened the motor mounts and slightly jacked the motor up to reset the motor mounts if they were in a bind, but everything was in order. so i tightened everything up and made the crossmember. from underneath the car the tailshaft looks like its in line with the pinion. the pinion is slightly offset to the passenger side. so i dont know what to do next. oh i did try taking out the driveshaft and going through the gears the vibration was almost non-existent. im using stock mustang2 v/8 frame mounts and motor mounts the car is an original v/8 car i cant remember if the 4spd tailshaft sat directly in the middle of the tranny tunnel or not before i removed it. but i had the same vibration with the early model motor and 4spd. i had hoped when i did the swap it would remedy it but heck no just doesnt seem like i was meant to enjoy this car thanks for the input i'll take all i can get. if you want to see the car you can go to webelectrics website i got my nephew to take some pictures of it with his digital camera and he posted one on their customers cars link. its under mike its a red 78 fastback t-tops with the 3 red tailights .i did the sequentail setup on it . thanks again for the help guys:bang:
 
#7

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#9
scrolling through the pictures, there are three MIIs. All have all red tail lights. All look good. I attached two. (max allowed) the other was jeffnoels. :hail2: all look great with the all red lights.
 

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#10
Putter said:
scrolling through the pictures, there are three MIIs. All have all red tail lights. All look good. I attached two. (max allowed) the other was jeffnoels. :hail2: all look great with the all red lights.
Click to expand...

mine is the red one. the louvers on the side windows came from jc whitney about , no kidding, 15 yrs ago . they are for a non t-top windowed car but they are plastic so you can trim them to fit the smaller window openning. it has been so long since i looked in a jc whitney catalouge i dont know if they even sell them anymore. thanks for the complements though!
 
#11
sorry dude havent been around for a while..
so you took the shaft out and vibration gone right ?
so now theres 3 things to check
driveshaft, pinion angle, and of course the 8 in rear.
i know you have gone through replacing everything two to three times.
but it honestly sounds like a driveshaft problem (out of balance)...
put the car in the air and run it through until you feel the vibration
have someone else hold the throttle where its vibrating, climb under the car and hold a yellow crayon against the driveshaft slowly and gently closer and closer
till you just start to skim or make a line on the shaft. if it makes an apparent even line around the shaft its ok..do this in atleast 3 different locations along the shaft.
i know you already had it balanced, but unfortunately it holds no value when the guy attaching the weights doesnt care if it has a little wobble that he may or may not be able to balance completely.. do this before we get into angles..
 
#12
thanks for the input, when i put the new front yolk on i took it to our local powertrain shop. i stood rigth there and watched him balance it . when he first put it on the lathe looking balancer, he spun it and the machine said it was out an ounce and a quater on the front, he said it was because of the new yolk i had put on , anyway ,he ground the weights off and respun it . after a couple or more spins and different weight configurations he came up to 16oz on the front and 14oz on the back . he looked at his list and said 16oz was the max limit , and me being the concerned purchaser i am and also very,very tired of vibration, i said are you sure and he reasured me that after he tacked the weights on it would be closer, so like you said if the customer isn't standing there whos to say that he would even got it that close. i don't know anything about driveshaft balance, but seems like it would have to be about dead nuts.
 
#13
i have not reinstalled that driveshaft yet because the oil pan is leaking pretty good and i just put the new centerforce clutch in it and its getting up in the clutch so i dont want to ruin that expencive clutch , im also taking the gear drive out just to eliminate that as a possible vibration causer. so im just going to pull the motor and tranny out when it warms up a little here. 20 degrees is just to cold to be laying under the car. i have until april before our rod run here in pigeon forge tenn. so before then i'll have all that fixed , i have to check and make sure the hole where the oil dipstick used to go in when it was in the 5.0 ,i'snt leaking . i have a timing chain cover dipstick in it. thanks hope to hear more suggestions from you.
 
#14
A couple things caught my interest...

The engine should be offset to the passenger's side in a V8 powered II. I'd have to crawl under one of the cars, but stands to reason that the trans tailshaft would be also. If you centered it, that may cause an angularity problem.

You replaced the yoke....did you use an OE style yoke with the damper? I would have to assume that Ford being as stingy as they were (are), they would not have used a damped yoke without a very good reason.

I'd be concerned about the shaft...could be bent, could be the isolater inside has shifted/is loose/deteriorating. Either way, the balance weight issue alone would make me look at another shaft. Should be able to get a new shaft fairly reasonably...some applications are close to the Ford Racing aluminum length.
 
#15
You make mention of having a driveshaft made. I only ever made one driveshaft. I am no expert by far. But ,this I know. The front yoke and rear yoke should oppose,and not line up. Check this, maybe the shaft was made incorrectly. Okay, next thing, I am interested in this alum. driveshaft talk. Will a fox body alum shaft work in my II? I have a 347-c-4 combination with an 8.8 rear ( so I will not have to change the rear yoke) If one fits ,can someone give me a year to narrow the search?? Thanks in advance for any help.
 
#17
#18
89fiveo, your tolerances are to high. if the tolerances were right at the limit for balancing on a machine that spins true with no resistance, your going to feel it more when you attach it to a tranny / rear end that have play no matter if they were new. try a newer shaft..

as far as the aluminum shaft, im going back along way and if i remember correctly
the ford racing shaft fits when you use the front yoke from a II and remove the rear bolt plate which fits the 8.8 and install a II u-joint.. its been so long i dont remember exactly..memory working slow in the morning..:D
 
#19
Just a quick thought on this....quite a while ago, I took my car up to about 110. when i slowed down, i had a vibration aroud the 40-60 mph area. Have you checked your tires? What had happened to me was a broken belt in one of my tires. Could be something like a balance problem for you too, since you said it was present in the car with the old motor/tranny combo. Those angles should have been correct. Just another thought for you to look at. Good luck!!
 
#20
new member here old member there you install a t-5 you said you use one early eighties one.are you using a rad four belling if so the input shaft is not going in to pilot bearing.to get this you must use a bushing like the one in tech section or you can use a longer input shaft.the one out of a 94 or 95 t-5 will work fine.i have a 78 king cobra did this conersion works great good luck http://www.mustangii.net/t5swap.asp
 
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