Electrical Viper 3400v alarm blows fuse with 5-wire door lock relays

Now I have to wrap my head around what the switch wire is.
So, the switch gets wired to pin 87a and the door lock actuator, so it works whenever the key fob button are NOT being pressed. When the key fob is used to lock/unlock the doors, the relay closes pins 85/86 which, in turn, closes pins 87/30 and allowing a pulse of 12v+ to hit the actuators locking/unlocking the doors. Once the pulse ends, pins 87a/30 are closed restoring proper operation of the switch in the door (until the key fob buttons are pressed again).
So, I have two black wires going to the door lock switch (one is black/white and not sure about the other black wire) and two pink wires (pink/green and pink/yellow). I know the black/white is supplying 12v+ constant to the switch...oh, wait...
When I cut the pink/green wire, do I connect one end to 87a and the other end to 30???
That would make the pink/green wire seem uninterrupted when the fob is not being used. When the buttons on the fob are pressed, the relay will close 87/30 sending a pulse to the actuator, still through the pink/green wire, only now it's getting 12v+ from the relay instead of when the door switch is pressed.
I just found some information from a car stereo web site that says, when installing 5-wire relay's to an alarms door lock actuator,

"you have to cut the factory relays and hook up the aftermarket relays as shown".

That's the first mention I've seen (I may have overlooked that in other threads, but I never noticed that before) in any thread or link that pertains to car wiring and door lock actuators. Do I, in fact, need to remove factory relays to get these door locks to work? If so, then they'll only lock/unlock via the fob, right?
If that's the case, couldn't I wire the 12v supply to the factory relay to post 87a of the alarms relay so the door would still lock/unlock with the factory switch in the door panel whenever the fob isn't activated???

I was soo close in my second post in this thread :)
Can anyone confirm that I'm wiring this relay correctly before I cut the wires???
I have two 5-wire relays, one will be for the lock circuit and the other for the unlock circuit.
I'll cut the pink/green and pink/yellow wires and test which side of each of those cut wires has continuity to ground when the drivers door lock switch is thrown. Those two ends of the four cut ends will go to pin 87a of their respective relay. The last two ends of the four cut wires will go to pin 30 of their respective relay. This will allow the switches in the door to work when the relays are at a resting state.
The green and blue wires from the alarm will go to pin 85 on their respective relay.
Pins 86 and 87 will get connected to constant hot. The hot on pin 86 will close the relay when the negative pulse is sent to the relay from the alarms green or blue wire. The hot on pin 87 will power the door lock actuator when the relay closes.
Once the pulse from the alarm ends, the relay will be back at a resting state and will allow the switch in the doors to work.
Cutting the pink/yellow and pink/green wires appears to work. I cut the pink/yellow, tested the ends of the cut wires with a test light and the one that lit the light when the lock switch in the door was thrown was connected to pin 87a of a relay and the other cut end to pin 30. Constant hot was connected to pin 87. When I locked the doors and hit the unlock button on the fob, the locks unlocked as expected.
I'll do the same with the pink/green wire tomorrow, as well as the wire from the hatch release switch in the glove box and my install should be done.
Unfortunately, when I wired up the second relay, neither actuator works when the fob is pressed. Once I had the first relay working, I wired the second relay the exact same way, but neither works with the fob. The switches in the doors still operate the locks properly, though. Not sure how one relay can work perfectly, then not work at all when the second relay is wired the exact same way.
When pressing the keys on the fob, I'm not hearing anything from the actuators (like I did before when I was just "tapping" into the wires and it sounded like I was trying to unlock an already unlocked door). So, I'll check to see if the relays are energizing when I press the fob. I've already swapped the relays for brand new relays and I still get nothing. I don't know how the wiring could be wrong now when I never changed the wiring to the first relay since wiring up the second. I would think, worst case scenario, at least the first would continue to work correctly.
It appears I'm not getting a pulse from the alarm unit to the relays. I have four constant hots at the relays (pins 86 & 87), I have the door lock wires on pins 87a and pin 30 with the switch side on 87a and the actuator side on pin 30. The lock switch in the drivers door works (I haven't tried the passenger door) so that tells me that I have continuity between pins 87a and 30. I've also tested the four hots and confirmed all four are, in fact, hot.
I can hear the alarm "clicking" once for the lock and twice for the unlock. So, the alarm is getting the signal form the fob, but not sending the signal to the relays. I've unplugged and re-plugged the green and blue connector to the alarm unit (these are the wires that carry the signal to the relays). I've confirmed they are plugged into the proper port on the unit.
I'll be checking fuses tomorrow, but they seem to be fine since I hear the alarm unit clicking. The unit is getting it's hot from the cigarette lighter circuit. The relays are getting their hot from the black/white wire that the door lock switch is getting it's hot from. So, since the door lock switch works, that fuse can't be blown either.
So, I'm guessing I've burnt up the door lock module inside the alarm unit. Anyone have any other ideas???
After taping all the connections, everything is working properly. It appears the two connections going to the door switch were too close to each other and contacting each other. When I went through and taped all the connections, the door locks work properly. I tried to make sure all the connections were clear of each other before taping the connections (in case I needed to change anything), but I guess I failed.

So, the pink/green and pink/yellow wires need to be cut (NOT tapped into) and connected to pins 30 and 87a (87a going to the switch and pin 30 going to the actuator). When the relay is triggered the actuator on pin 30 goes from closed with the switch through 87a to closed with the alarm through pin 87.