Build Thread Want To Blow 5 Years And $50k On A Foxbody? Step By Step Instructions Inside!

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by RacEoHolic330, Nov 13, 2011.

  1. I'm not stripping any paint from the urethane parts. The front bumper I have is OEM but I bought it from a guy that made some repairs on it and primed it. My rear cobra bumper is NOS, so that just needs to be scuffed. Same with the cobra ground effects, just scuffing the clear off. The spoiler is going to get sanded down to at least the original paint. I just want to get the repainted layer off of that. Chemical strippers are a no no on non-metal parts, so I just need to use extra elbow grease!
  2. Chemical strippers are also a no no on skin and water doesn't wash off the burn, lol.

    Sooo, were you serious about selling some of those AN fittings? Like some -8 or -6?
  3. As everyone else said, I'm excited for the return of the car to it come back together!q

  4. Tell me about it, I got a little crazy with the brush and some splashed on my forearm above my gloves. Not a nice feeling. Eye protection is a must with that stuff too.

    Yea, I have a good amount of -12, -8, and -6 fittings. Mostly -8. All of it is new and just some fittings were tightened down, mainly the -12 stuff. I'll just have to figure out the pricing and then I'll put an add in the classifieds. Send me a convo and let me know what types you're looking for.
  5. yeah that stripper doesnt do good with jeans either. i went through a few pairs when i was stripping my bros 68 slomaro.
  6. Body work is all finished up. It needed less filler than I thought. They were able to tap out some of the tiny dents in the body. The front edge of the roof was the worst part. Not sure how the previous owner managed to get a bunch of dents up there.






    Next step is 3-4 coats of urethane primer and then blocking. They will probably be shooting the primer tomorrow. Depending how it blocks out, it may go back in the booth again for a few more coats of primer and more blocking. They said I did a good enough job in the engine bay that they will probably only need to seal it. It shouldn't need anymore primer or sanding. I'm happy to hear that because that will save me some green.
  7. I was concerned about strippers on the urethane stuff. I have a nose clip that somebody botched! I know how to get it done right in raw form, but reversing someones crappy spray-over is something i'm trying to figure the best way to accomplish.

    Anybody have any pointers please LMK.
  8. I would probably try soda blasting the bumper. You can either send it somewhere or do it yourself with a small tank. I got mine from harbor freight. I may actually wind up soda blasting my spoiler. I'll give it a shot in my back yard this weekend and let you know how it turns out.

  9. ON the Black Painted Parts: Bump!

    I just did my engine bay this week with an epoxy paint. I wish I could go the route you're going with full-off resto, but this will do for now. You should see the befores...

    I think i'll do myLlakewood Housing in black also... yours is awesome!
  10. Thanks for the soda blasting idea, I think that's it!

    You know I saw a water version of this blasting process that is supposed to eliminate any heat. The system that I saw worked awesome except it cost as musch as my car!!!! Sure, LMK how the soda blasting works. If it does a good job, i'll pick one up from harbor frieght.
  11. The water blasting way needs so much pressure that's why the equipment is so much because the air compressor is beefed up hell even my 80gallon air compressor barely did the job when I was sandblasting my car trailer
  12. I have that exact one. You just need enough compressor CFM to get quick results.
  13. 1200gt. My compressor was not up to the task to strip away 2 layers of paint on my spoiler. It's only rated for half of what the blaster needs, and it really showed. I just decided to hit the spoiler with my DeWalt orbital with 80 grit paper. The soda blasting did do a good job on the areas of my fenders where I couldn't get to with the orbital, but the spoiler was too much for my little compressor.
  14. How big a compressor you got Scott?
  15. Just an 8 gallon craftsman. The 3 CFM at 90psi wasn't cutting it. My father has a 50 gallon compressor, so if I really wanted to, I could bring stuff over there to blast. If I had an entire bumper that I needed to strip, I would definitely be using his.
  16. 8 Gallons? seriously? Man I have a 22 in mine and I think that is small.
  17. It's not the size of the compressor that counts, it's how you use it!:D
    ry94stang50 likes this.
  18. I've gotten by without using any air tools, so I've never bothered purchasing a real compressor. Electric and cordless tools have always gotten the job done for me. Brute strength and breaker bars help from time to time as well.
  19. Good to have this info in advance. I happen to have an 80 gallon monster unit.

    When in doubt, go with the orbital on flat surfaces...

    On the fenders, I was thinking of doing the stripper with those, just didn't want to end up leaving any of the chemical residue.... especially in behind any folds of the metal; what did you do to make sure you didn't leave stuff behind. Anybody chime in on the neutralization of the stipper...