Build Thread Want To Blow 5 Years And $50k On A Foxbody? Step By Step Instructions Inside!
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@bentley429isBAC, I didn't realize you have a Holley setup. I'm glad you like it. What kind of trigger wheel are you using, or did you opt for the Innovators balancer with the built in trigger points? I'm interested in doing a trigger setup depending on the cost. It may be something that has to wait if it will cost and arm and a leg to accomplish.
bentley429isBAC
10 Year Member
I just used the innovators kit. Balancer with build in magnets, adjustable pointer and sensor bracket. Think it was around $800 or so. Was so nice looking, had a hard time actually putting it on the car! Just used the tfi adapter harness to get the car running but kept it on there a little longer then expected.
That is a very trick setup. Not in the cards right now though. It will probably be something I do down the road though. I really like that balancer. It seems that every other option is some kind of custom job that people do to mount a trigger wheel to their existing balancer.
bentley429isBAC
10 Year Member
For me I tried using the magnetic sensor that came with the kit and I had a lot of starting problems. Then I was informed by either Jeff and the bullet that the sensor I was using was not optimal and I should switch to a hall effect trigger. So thats what I did, all starting problems went away. Problem was the mag sensor was just not seeing enough signal, if it did enough to fire the car up it was fine. Hall effect one is powered so that issue goes away. For me I had a bogus balancer already so it would be a good idea to upgrade and I didnt want the msd wheel because it would push the cog pulley to far out. For you that shouldn't be a issue. Probably could pick up a used kit cheap and just get the better sensor.
Just trying to have others avoid the problems I have had.
Just trying to have others avoid the problems I have had.
Good info. Thanks for the heads up on that sensor. I've heard that magnetic sensors can be susceptible to issues. My only concern with the MSD wheel is that it will push the crank pulley out 3/8". I do have access to a very good machine shop that can probably cut the crank pulley in half, shorten it, and then weld it back together and ensure it's balanced. That will probably be a much cheaper option than getting a new balancer. Did you modify your distributor to act as a cam sensor?
You can mount the trigger wheel behind the balancer and just modify the pickup bracket. I had originally set mine up that way and then along came sally I mean the gear drive lol
I'd like to avoid pulling the balancer at this point if I can. I can probably get it to work with the wheel mounted on the outside.
bentley429isBAC
10 Year Member
I actually tried to make my dist a siquintial can sync but failed, made a mistake and cut off the wrong teeth on the wheel so its currently just running off the crank trigger. Just drove it today first time this year.
So basically, if you don't have a cam sync, the injectors will just operate bank-to-bank instead of sequential?
bentley429isBAC
10 Year Member
Yes, not ideal but just have to pony up the $ for another dist. Been spending my money on dirt and mulch 
Lol. I hear that. Tis the season for yard work again.
You're supposed to cut off all the teeth except the one for the #1 plug, right? Edit: nevermind. I realized it's not that simple. The phasing needs to be set before you can determine which one is the correct one to use.
You're supposed to cut off all the teeth except the one for the #1 plug, right? Edit: nevermind. I realized it's not that simple. The phasing needs to be set before you can determine which one is the correct one to use.
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It's way more complicated to build your own cam sync dist. I pulled the shaft out of mine, turned the factory reluctor off on a lathe and bought a new billet reluctor. I then removed 7 of the 8 teeth, drilled and tapped two holes in the side for set screws and turned the shaft od down on the dist to slip fit my new reluctor. It is now fully adjustable and can be used as a cam sync. You have to phase the rotor and then adjust the cam sync to 60*btdc on my application with the XFI. Pain in the but if you ask me... Next time the motor is out the machinist is going to install a magnet in the cam gear and I'll be done with my custom built MSD dist. lol
For the 8.2 deck if you go COP you can buy the explorer cam sensor and use that as a hal effect sensor, in conjunction with the crank trigger and have full sequential ignition and spark. I used that on my old motor. I had ATI do the magnets right in the balancer, i think it was like 550 or 600 by the time i was done, and made my own bracket by starting with a ford racing timing pointer and 2 pieces of the MSD kit, which you can buy individually. The holley crank sensor is definitely the way to go if you dont already have the MSD sensor.
You are making a good move selling the PMS. I have a friend who i have been telling for a while now to sell the PMS stuff and get the holley before the value of the PMS takes a dump. It boggles my mind people buy those new when you can get a holley HP kit for under 1400 bucks.
You are making a good move selling the PMS. I have a friend who i have been telling for a while now to sell the PMS stuff and get the holley before the value of the PMS takes a dump. It boggles my mind people buy those new when you can get a holley HP kit for under 1400 bucks.
I'm quickly realizing how much is involved to modify the distributor for cam sync. FAST makes a dual sync distributor that will work with the Holley for the cam sync. It's probably worth the $300 to go that route. I'll still use a crank trigger with the Holley hall effect sensor and just use the dizzy for cam sync. I don't want to go CNP right now. I just want to get this damn thing running again. Lol. I don't even really want to ditch the TFI just yet, but it does seem that is the best route to go to get the best idle and driveability out of the car. I'll have to see what Kris says when we talk.
I do think that picking up a used PMS is still a good choice for a more mild setup like an HCI blower car with a stock block. It was great for me when I had the blower. Time for bigger and better things though!
I do think that picking up a used PMS is still a good choice for a more mild setup like an HCI blower car with a stock block. It was great for me when I had the blower. Time for bigger and better things though!
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It is kind of a tough decision, the TFI stuff will work decent, but it is so much easier to just wire it right the first time and be done with it...
What balancer is on the car? Also, If you go with a 58-2 wheel you can run the car bank to bank if the cam sensor quits. You dont have that option with the magnets because the ECU has no idea what magnet it is seeing without the cam sensor. I like the way mine works but after i installed it i learned some things and knowing what i know now i probably would have gone with the 60-2 wheel.
What balancer is on the car? Also, If you go with a 58-2 wheel you can run the car bank to bank if the cam sensor quits. You dont have that option with the magnets because the ECU has no idea what magnet it is seeing without the cam sensor. I like the way mine works but after i installed it i learned some things and knowing what i know now i probably would have gone with the 60-2 wheel.
I would stay away from the fast dual sync. I had nothing but trouble with mine, hence why it is sitting in a box (shame you don't have a 351 or i would give it to you) I couldn't get a steady rpm signal over 7000 rpms with the dual sync, it's straight garbage if you ask me. ( I don't intend to rain on your parade here, sorry)
I was to quick to hit "post reply" I guess. Part of the problem with the fast dist is the setup and the stupid lights that they use to "sync" the dist. It was far from reliable. Fast tech support sucks and couldn't give a straight answer on how to set the thing up right to begin with. three calls yielded three different/incorrect answers. On the CPG Nation forum, Brian Macy was able to help me get it going but it was headaches and worries all the way. I never trusted my timing or the rotor phasing with that thing.
I forget the brand of the balancer, but it's a nice SFI piece. I've heard a lot of mixed opinions about flying magnet triggers VS. ferrous wheels. People seem to like what they have. I found a nice deal on a new MSD crank trigger kit that I may go with. I'm just trying to iron out this can sync deal. I definitely want sequential. Nick is pi$sing in my cheerios though...
Another option is getting an MSD dizzy and modifying that for cam sync. There are some online tutorials. Seems like a more simple process compared to modifying a factory one due to the differences in the internals.
Another option is getting an MSD dizzy and modifying that for cam sync. There are some online tutorials. Seems like a more simple process compared to modifying a factory one due to the differences in the internals.
Sorry.... Just trying to save you some of the hours and hours of aggravation we had. I always liked the MSD crank trigger setup and it always worked well. I have the CDS system and it works just as well fwiw. I agree that you definitely want sequential! We have a Dual sync FAST dist in the 73 Mach 1 Mustang that is at the shop now and it works fine (Has no crank trigger, uses the dist for the cam and crank signals) has made over 800rwhp and has been in the 9's at 4000 lbs. It has just been my experience that it didn't work well with the crank trigger. I had to cut the harness up and power the cam pickup differently to make it all work. I think once we took the plug and play aspect out of the picture it just went to hell.
