want to do an engine swap but I'm lost

Discussion in 'Fox Engine Swaparoo' started by Wrathchild-Joe, Jan 26, 2012.

  1. I have a '93 Mustang (came w/2.3L) and I want to drop a 5.0 but have heard conflicting advice about it. The 5.0 is out of an '85 Lincoln and is tbi, I was told that it would work but I need to add a fuel regulator because of the fuel pump and there shoulkd be no other issues but I was told by somebody else that I would have to change the intake becuase of the efi. I'm LOST. any help on what should be done would be deeply appreciated.
  2. Ehh, if you want to drop in the stock 85 lincoln engine, it's not that big a deal, but you'd get better power from a carbed setup...the tbi leaves some to be desired.

    As for the fuel system, you'd have to get an electric low pressure pump and plumb it for tbi or regulate a high pressure pump down. You'd also have to have all the pieces from the donor car. I still think it would be easier to carb it...or just find a multiport setup and run it that way...much easier than people seem to think.

    You also need mustang motor mounts, and you'll probably wanna get a double hump x-member...exhaust parts etc
    Wrathchild-Joe likes this.
  3. It would be easier to go carburetor. Drop the tank and replace it. Buy one or get a good used tank from a early 80's mustang so you can use a pick up tube for manual fuel pump. Use a external electric fuel pump for street vehicles with a carburetor like Carter. Or you can use a manual fuel pump if you replace that timing cover for manual pump. The K member will need to be replaced with a 5.0 mustang K member. Either used or tubular K member. Use 5.0 mustang motor mounts and get four barrel intake with a 600 cfm HOLLEY carb not edelbrock. Edelbrock carbs are hard to tune. Go with a C4 automatic or 5 speed manual. The AOD isn't compatible with a carburetor. You can make the AOD work but its complicated. Oh yeah you want a bigger camshaft the stock one sucks.
    Wrathchild-Joe likes this.
  4. Unless you have something "special", this is not accurate. I did a 5.0/T5 swap on a '91 2.3/auto...the engine mounts have to be for a 5.0, but that's it...the engine dropped right in, the double hump x-member from a 5.0 auto (it was an auto car) bolted right in, the driveshaft bolted right on, the shifter popped up in the same hole with clearance, and we carbed it...no issues. If anything about them is different, it would be the suspension angles-and unless you're wanting to do road race type apps, it's really not an issue. I would however recommend you upgrade the stock brakes and spindles to 87-93 GT or better...the 10" 4 cylinder setup may create some small religious experiences. If you get the go, you'll need the whoa to match or better.

    If you can't find a tank locally, I have one that you can have for shipping costs...don't know if I have the sending unit or not though. Edelbrock carbs are not hard to tune-I had a 600 on my car for 10 years before converting to EFI, and it was easy when you buy the calibration kit; but Holleys are more versatile and the aftermarket is much more lending to Holley carbs. The AOD is compatible with a carb, you just have to buy the right tv cable adapters (82-85 5.0s were available with AODs-and they were carbed)...pretty sure Lokar makes adapters for this purpose, if nothing else, you could run a man valve body-the options are there. Depending on your goals, whatever you want can be met...just depends on your budget. Running a C4 isn't a bad idea since the C4 has a huge aftermarket...only downside is it has no overdrive...that might not be an issue for you, but it depends again-on what you want out of the car.

    Cams: '85-up blocks are roller and you'd be well served to get a bigger cam since the stock one is only really good as a mild turbo cam or for smooth idle. Up to '84, the non-roller blocks-well, there are literally thousands of flat tappet cams available. I ran a Comp 270 Magnum, and it thumped pretty good with my Edelbrock top end...up to about 5800rpm-which was all I needed for my purposes.

    There's nothing wrong with running a mechanical fuel pump and regulator-last time I checked, they're still a good deal less expensive than a reputable electric pump, high volume versions are readily available at Summit or Jeg's-or wherever you do mail order, and you don't need to wire the car for it...just plumb some fittings-this is old tech and it still works pretty damn well if you can operate an $8 tubing bender. An electric will offer more stable regulated pressure, but if you install a regulator anyway, the mechanical vs electric debate is purely based on what your pocket can support and what you feel like installing.
    Wrathchild-Joe likes this.
  5. Oh-and if you go carbed, yes you will need to change intakes...Eddy RPM or Weiand Stealth are great street dual plane intakes for a 302...plenty of low end and midrange, and good top end breathing.
    Wrathchild-Joe likes this.
  6. +1 on all that lol
  7. So, have you made any progress in this swap, or is it on hold for right now?
  8. It's junk.and not worth the time and money to.do the job
  9. unfortunately it got put on hold. I'm sitting around with a broke leg, so I won't be able to get started on it until after the leg heals. thanks for the info though. it is very highly appreciated.
  10. If I didn't know any better, I'd say you either know the OP, or this thread struck a chord and you feel compelled to school us all on your very obviously extensive knowledge regarding engine swaps...please-feel free to dazzle us with your omniscience.

    Sorry to hear about the leg...get well soon so you can tool on the Mustang.
  11. well sorry to hear about the leg, hope you're recovering soon.

    this was not required on my 93; just changed the motor mounts and used the same kmember that came in my 2.3

    I recommend doing a full EFI set up, your wallet will thank you when you can get close to 17mpg instead of like 8 mpg.

    My advice on 2.3 swaps:
    1. I'm a girl and did a swap, so you can too

    2. EFI is way easier than people think until they try it

    3. your best to get a donor 5.0, even if you dont get the engine with the donor car it can help with allot of little things like the computer, rearend, tranny, engine harness, gauge cluster, drive shaft, throttle cable, fuel lines if they're worth the salvage, and even REFERENCE on what should go where.

    4. electrical related parts must come from these bracket of years 87-89 or 90-93, air bag vs no air bag- the wiring colors changed when they added air bags. Do yourself a favor and get the exact year of your car if you get a donor car if you can, it's worth the extra effort later on.

    5. you CAN run the existing rearend, it comes with 3.73 gears, fun stuff until you break it; but if you are easy on it it will work for years (been running mine now for 8 years cause i'm lazy and didn't put my 8.8 in yet)

    6. Engine: just get any 87-93, but the earlier years ran slightly better internals, i forget the kind of piston i think isn't quite that good in 93; not 100% what years that went, but I love my 87 donor engine :)

    7. computer: if you have an auto i think you need an auto computer, i think if you're manual either works; but check; one will not work with the other; but the other does both....spend a few mintues searching because i'm not sure i'm remembering 100% of which way it was.

    8. check out my website; i documented my entire 2.3 swap. you can get an idea how much work it is and if you're up for it: My 5.0 Swap

    9. swapping a 2.3 to a 5.0 is not efficient for cash reasons, however; it's allot more fun and even better when you can say you put the car together yourself
  12. So,have you done any progress in your engine swapping......:nono:

    engine 2.3